Maxim

There's a few ways to do it. You can get an Opti-Drive (link) to replace your CD/DVD drive and give you a slot for a 2nd internal hard drive. Or you can get some sort of external hard drive dock (link) and plug the SSD into that to do the initial format. Or you can get a external laptop drive enclosure (link) and use that. Or you can go to Best Buy and grab one of these cables (link) and use that. Essentially, you need the computer booted and the SSD plugged in somehow, probably externally. Then you'll format the SSD as HSF+ (Mac extended/journaled or whatever it calls it). This will make an initial blank partition. Once this is done you can shut it down, swap the drives out, and install as normal. EDIT: Make sure you format the SSD! Don't format your laptop's old drive. That will cause some issues

You may have to intialize the drive. Drives usually come without any sort of partitions on them. You'll need to have Mac format it and create a partition so that you can write to it.

Just wrote a post educating that mofukka about some electricity. You're welcome

I had one of the baddest rigs on this site behind Meade Until I read this post Gonna go take my dual 6970's and hide in a hole now.

Set of Kicker Q-series 6.5" comps and 6" comps. Ordered through Employee Accommodation. I'd prefer Rockford's Power series but for $300 shipped for both sets of comps I couldn't resist!

MP3's off an iPod's dock connector to USB will be the same as MP3's off a flash drive and will be the same as the same MP3's burned onto a CD. Burning an MP3 onto a CD doesn't magically up the bitrate and make a higher quality audio recording. It just writes whatever data is there. WAV will generally be a better bitrate as it is uncompressed (unless someone decided to lower it to reduce file size) If you have your iPod at full volume through the AUX input, it'll be louder bass because it's actually a higher amplitude sine wave than the unamplified file off the CD. The "volume" knob on your iPod is a gain knob for the internal amplifier. Nothing more. The trade off is that the audio is now most likely a clipped signal. The same effect as turning the gain knob on your amp to full. It will be loud but it's risking damage to your equipment. A small amount of clipping is fine of course but if you haven't used a DD-1 or o-scope to set your gains then your iPod is clipping plus your headunit at full volume could be clipping and possibly your sub amplifier. 3 potential sources of distortion simply compounding on one another. If you're going for best quality, stick to .wav files on a flash drive/iPod via dock connector or use CD's.

Nearly every device with a headphone jack output will clip. All iPods will at max volume, I'd bet that all Blackberry's do, probably all the Android phones as well. The digital to analog sound processor in these devices is powered by a tiny little battery, not the most powerful thing in the world. I've always found that 85%-ish is the point where I can't hear any distortion on my iPod with a flat EQ. However, I've also noticed that off an iPod there's much weaker bass than off a CD or USB drive. After grabbing a flash drive for my car I haven't found a need for CD's or my iPod in the car anymore.

Could be a hundred different things. Was this just an all-of-a-sudden thing or gradually gotten worse over time?

I'm with Kranny on this one. Malwarebytes and Microsoft Security Essentials is all I run. I've used both avast! and AVG on numerous machines in the past and hated them both. Ran slow, scans took forever. I never had issues with my machine running slow unless they were running scans though. Haven't gotten to try out Comodo but I also have no need for it because I have no viruses.

I added a sound card to my computer because I just felt like the onboard Realtek chipset wasn't cutting the mustard. I use a gaming headset and there was a significant lack of bass in games and music. A soundcard is a great thing to add to most machines. YOURS on the other hand has a VERY nice onboard sound chip. I wouldn't recommend getting a sound card unless you're looking for absolute top sound quality and are using an absurdly expensive audiophile headset.

I like my SV98. Oh. This is MW3. On consoles >_> Carry on...

top of box 1 wall back of box 2nd shared wall 2 shared walls The port has 4 sides. Only 1 of those sides is also a wall of the box. Please don't argue this.

1 common port wall. Measure down the dead center.

http://store.razerzone.com/store/razerusa/en_US/pd/productID.218524000/categoryId.54746700 In love with my Onza. Will probably never buy another Xbox controller ever again.

Wireless controller Not worth $120+ IMO but some peeps are into that stuff. For that price they better include some fucking batteries or a Play + Charge kit!

Turning down a sub to a quieter level does not an SQ sub make. However, the XL is seen by many to be DC's "SQ" woofer. I'd say XL over level 5 in this scenario.

Don't need thermal paste. The H80 comes with the good stuff pre-applied. Just curious. Why are there 3 2TB 5900 RPM drives? Do you already own them? Is this being built by you or ordered online from a custom site? (iBUYPOWER, CyberPower PC, etc.) If you're looking for 2TB internal drives, go for these: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 7200 RPM They're a full 7200RPM drive with 64MB cache and are rated to cost $0.20 more per year to operate than the 5900 RPM version. Faster drives are never a bad thing, even if they're just for data/backup. Hopefully this helps!

This thread's just full of haters. My cousin's got a buddy whose neighbor is running a pair of AP18001D's at .25 daily on 10 volts with no issues.

This is a fucking joke of a product. 30 grand and all I can do is plug my iPod in? And they say we're in a recession

LOL I always love flipping through this thread every once in a while.

LMAO I'd be pissed but I'd totally grab their autographs and shit. And I'd demand I keep the cannonball as a trophy!

Wiring looks correct to me except the amp has 2 inputs and 1 ground? I feel like this is a proper circuit but could be done better. I'd probably ground both rear batts and the amp all together on the frame. And I'd put a single run of cable between the + on the rear batts bussbar style. Also, fuses mofukka!

OH MY GOSH!!! I have that same hard drive!

I had this in another thread, but I'll drag it over here. Also, there's soon to be a twin joining my 6970.

Our store has a PSU tester. If they have one snag it and check voltages on all the plugs you're using (24-pin, 4/8-pin, etc). Did you plug the computer into another monitor to see if it would boot? Was there any luck?