LSN2meBoom916

Thanx for the kudos/props. I was hesitant to post it and show then jenky doors but it was more a "test run" of the lexus setup than a shot at perfection. All the issues I had on the 5.0 got remedied in the lexo. score. Saw Steves post about "old setups" and pics floatin round so i figg'd yall might want some more pics. enjoy... or not.

Like I said, he dint kno any better and I was running negative on time. The system is at least 10 times what that ride "deserves" but oh well. The xovers got yanked completely in the end so imagine the same pod w/ no xovers and thats how it looks now. For some reason those lil cadence x-overs kept burning up/melting at the top end. I swapped him out twice for new ones on the driver side and they burned every time. Only idea might be defective run of x-overs (any body heard anything?) or that speaker's resistence was all whacko (low) and it was pullin more power from amp than it shoulda? Not sure. No carpet in the ride btw. doors were pretty trashed too and he was "gettin new ones soon" so i dint go crazy on the mid mounting-just simple and replaceable that would git 'er done for the time being.

Like i said none yet but i will seeing as how there's some/any interest. next weekend i'm thinkin i'll have some pix up. From my use of it it's got MAAAD pontential and does not seem to change the dry time/ mix req's for MEKTp.

Ok so here's part of the reason that lexus took so long-I had to bang this lil mug out b4 I could get rollin on the lexus I posted a lil while back. 1988 Ford POS Mustang 5.0 Criteria: Cost of labor AND parts about around $1k cuz Homie's a broke mofo. but "gotta have beat" Kenwood KAC 9152D sub amp Kenwood KAC 8452 4chann Alpine CDA 9856 w/ iPod cable Cadence MMX-5 5 1/4" comp set up front (ditched the x-overs cuz they are HORRIBLE and burn up) Cadence momentum series 4" rears 2-Fosgate HX2 12's (dual 4ohm) Yes this is the exact same setup as that lexus minus 1 sub amp and 12's in stead of 15's and sealed not ported here's the who-ride. The box+amp rack (both done in light-grey vinyl) Amp rack Trim panels installed The front mids I just threw in 3/4" mdf "pods" in the doors. The nasty "x-overs on top" was ok cuz he dint kno anybetter and they ended up gettin chucked and ran off amps x over only and sounded better that way anyhoo. Lemme kno what ya think-& yes i know "bulkmaster" on the pods but he likeded em.

I have yet to see/hear of anyone using it in "our line of work" (professional or hobby style) but there's a type of DYE that you can add to fiberglass resin to color it all the way thru and theat way no worries bout paint scratching/chipping off a baddass fiberglass setup like Groundpounders or any painted glass. Its avail from West Marine boat shop/supply (good idea since many boats are FGlass and run into junk in the water getting scratched/dinged up). I just used some in this art project for a friend of which i have no pics yet but will soon and shall post if anyone's into it. Essentially save time on the paint/dry steps and maybe $$ too. A tube that will easily color a gallon of resin is about $10. I have used white and yellow but i am told there are numerous colors and you can mix/match ur shizzles as you like. Lemme kno if this sounds worth more info/pics/etc.

Ouch! (you gotta admit that last one @ Derek was kinda funny)^^^^ maybe this should be a new thread but i'm already HERE)... Ok- SMD Quote/Shirt options: #1: "It's fun & games until someone loses an eye...Then it's hilarious too!". #2: "33hz Club, Wanna cum? #3: "SMD: The hype is true repeat, THE HYPE IS TRUE!" #4: "Dont talk about, be about it" Steve Meade 2006 #5: "Got spl?" (SMD)

Generally I only respond when it happens to me as im pulling into the P-lot @ work so it's after I shut the car off and I can hear them ask it. I usually just tell the truth. "Four 12's" "how many amps?" "Just one for the subs, one for the mids. 2 total". Usually ends up in a "yea I do intalls in the summer time hit me up then if u need a setup built" If it's "in traffic" ....If I don't do the "I CAN'T HEAR YOU" mime routine, I'll say the same as above. No need to play games & they usually give me the thumbs up or a "that sh*t is pounding/moving my mirrors/shakin my car, etc" I'm sure you all hear the same kinda stuff. I got cussed out by an old guy in a Taurus the other day and I was doin around 140db on my epic-160...he started yellin at me so i put it up to 147db and he just about flipped out..almost rolled into the car in front of him @ the light...he tried to "get away" but i just rolled next to him for a bit,smiled at him & sped off, put it back to 140db and cruised home smiling. I don't kno what he thought he'd accomplish by yelling "you f*#ing idiot....blah blah blah" drowned out cuz i wasn't trying to hear that. Like most folks, I only REALLY crank it when I'm tryin to drown out some A-hole on a mission or a douche that's "mean muggin" w/ his stocks blaring @ 100% distortion.

I'm basically a "self made" installer/box head myself. No formal training/apprenticeship and no enclosures ever built for a shop (I've done deck+2/deck+4 for a few months @ 1 shop but I quit cuz I wasn't a fan of the owner and I was DYING watching them do "custom work" quite badly. Just started working on my bro's cars and his friends rides in 7th grade and bough my share of CA&E mags, went crazy in the audio sites reading and gettin edjumacated. Not to sound like a Broken record or nuthin...but Knowledge IS Power.

50 cones moving...1.0mm xmax each cone...50mm xmax for the wall...and ur usable freq's(hz) would be silly high. Rather have some bigger cones w/ usable bass tones. I'm thinkin of a "crazy 8's setup" after seein that Ray did a 151db w/ AA 8's in an integra like mines.

A friend of a friend was asking "how does he (me) know about boxes and stereo stuff?" So i posted this on his mybspace and it seemed to be a good starting point. If nothing else hit up JL Audio's site (JLaudio.com in any search should find it) and go to the TUTORIAL section it has wiring diagrams, ohms law (the important parts), and how to's on boxes including fiberglass and doorpods etc. http://www.caraudiohelp.com/custom_car_aud...audio_boxes.htm http://www.caraudiohelp.com/subwoofer_encl...re_software.htm http://www.caraudiohelp.com/plans_for_subw..._enclosures.htm Here's JL's tutorial section lotsa good info esp if u wanna get into fiberglassin. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.ph...php?page_id=127 Just good reading if u really wanna be a box head. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.ph...php?page_id=151 http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=27 http://www.ajdesigner.com/speaker/bcb.php If that doesn't help or is "too hard" to get thru you may just wanna pay a guy like Ray and go have a beer while he pimps ur ride...or maybe drop ur ride off and hitch a ride to work so you can make some $$ to pay for your new install. Truthfully tho-I have 100 times more respect for someone who builds his setup and has it sound "good" than a guy who pays for the same setup and don't know the difference between a woofer and a tweeter. ~2 more cents.

Anytime bro. That's what this place is for. Only way to learn,if you can't find the info urself, is ask somebody who knows. Glad I could help. :^

I hope that helped?

ONE thing to consider tho! Make sure it's a TermLab mic/sensor and all related are parts used in the testing are currently "up to date" equipment. I fyou get your setup metered with Audio Control, Linear X or other older equipment the differnce in readings will be HUGE. As much as +/-10db difference. Ask anyone on this forum that has faced a newer TL mic- it is more accurate but thus/also much harder to score well on unless you have a very loud system. And a radio shack/similer brand BOOMstick mic? FOGETABOUTIT! I have had guys tell me "yea i metered my buddies car and it does a 170db on the dash"..I'm like "really what's he runnin?" "oh just 2-12's...kenwood i think" -Granted high ##'s are possible off small subs/few subs but only in EXTREME cases. not a slap-in setup in moms civic in the driveway.

well... If you change polarity on ONE coil only...on a DVC sub you WILL be changing the way THAT sub is hooked up AND any others hooked to it whether series or parallel. If you have 1 sub in the whole system...and you change ALL coils polarity (+/-, -/+) wether it's 1, 2, or even 4 coils, as long as you swap them ALL (as many coils as that sub has) the ohm level will be the same...it may THEN be out of phase w/ other components in the system, but the ohms/resistence will be the same. a 4 ohm coil is a 4ohm coil whether it is wired +pos to pos+ and -neg to -neg or vice versa...it's only when you run woofers TOGETHER and change one or more voice coils, that will chnage the resistance TOTAL at amp. Make sense? maybe?

Good thing I picked up a case of "HOLY HAND-GRENADES" @ gun show in Vegas.

Megalo...? You quotin my quote? Is that a "x2" on the quote? or a "can you believe this douche" ? I'd take it either way, but i believe in speaking up and seeking answers yourself rather than "keepin it real" and being too cool to look "dumb" when thats really the only way to make any progress. Un-asked Q's dont get answered too often and that = lots of ignorant folks running round quoting "my buddy said"...

1: Never done a "custom trunk floor/amp rack" w/ visible wires. 2: Prefab Boxes are "all the rage" in custom setups how? 3: 2-12's is anything close to 4-18's in what way? 4: 1 layer of resin over stetched nylon is a structurally sound enclosure wtf? 5: Oh wait..Ciruit Shitty is the BOMB when it comes to pooping in your own hand and eating it. My mistake. :^

OK- I did NOT see that one coming. lol. :^

Yup. BUT!... as long as they do it at the same time as each other they will be ok on output but maybe out of phase w/ ur mids. As long as the wiring is normal on ur mids, and ur subs are not inverted, normal phase (0 degrees) should be best. however-If it sounds beteer a diff. way do THAT for sure Maybe you have a ghost!

AMEN TO THAT! I just recently found out a guy who don't know D*ck about audio, let alone cars period (got fired from a hole in the wall auto repair shop) has been sh*t talkin my install. Does he have any trophies? does he have a system/car worth sh*tting on period? NOPE. It's always the guy farthest from the top who's gotta take the shots at the top dogs, then go run and hide. KEEP DUMPIN ON EM STEVE! if they got anything to say, invite em to a front row seat and if they even have the balls to show up, they will clam up quick! If not from ebarrassment, then from loss of breath!..and maybe their eyes will pop out who knows.

I'm not tryin to be a d**k here but my comment meant anything LESS than 20mm xmax...if ur's ar 20.5mm then that's A-O-K! Arsenals are keepers in my book for that reason and many more. But again my comment meant anything w/ less than 20mm xmax (one way) would not be worth the $600. Nice choice on the Arsenals: I would have a set of 4 Ascendent 12's if i dint already have my 4-12's for my rebuild.

What were "your thoughts"?

Changing the phase settin DOES NOT (obviously) change how they're mounted-it does reverse the signal they are getting 180 degrees. so pos = neg and vice versa. And if the music says "pushed out" the sub will be "sucked in" = reversed of normal phase... Any help?

Glad I'm not the only one thinkin this is NOT a good Idea. -and I see retards in my shop everyday so i know stoopid people exist.. it just still blows my mind HOW stupid folks can be.

yea I'm w/ the boys on this one: Anything shy of 20mm xmax is not worth it. Displacement is king.