HaMSaMMiCH

x2 If anything, you can run them like normal, and have some extra headroom. More headroom=More SQ

a t800-4, that way you have a little headroom..

x156747373 You are gonna have better luck burping a 60hz sine wave. Music is probably just going to hurt your subs. Wait till you play something that gets down between 35-45hz and your subs start bottoming out. Read THIS and Maybe do a little looking on google about Tuning frequencies and how to use them. As soon as you start playing anything under 45hz, you may as well be playing those subs FREE AIR(VERY BAD)

that bass line is a sample from Paul Revere-Beastie Boys

Holy crap, 56hz.... GL finding songs that aren't gonna DESTROY your subs. If you want to listen to music you need to be down below 45hz..... Ideally between 30-38hz.......

3 year warranty.

I just came.....

The Lonely Island pwnz j00!

DROOL........

x2

Tachometer is the gauge that shows your RPM's.

Your tach is DEFINITELY broken. That Honda motor probably won't stay running under 600RPM.

It's probably not really idling that low. It sounds like your Tach is fucked up. Zero RPM is OFF, and I don't know of any motor that idles at 100 RPM. Most big V8's that idle WAY lower than imports only get down to 500. V6's and 4cyl are typically between 600-900 and ALOT of cars have what is called "high idle" right after start to help the car warm up and get better compression, If it really is idling that high when you start it, as it sounds like your tach isn't giving you any sort of realistic idea of where it is idling....

not without a stall converter at least.....

Holy shit.... I can't believe I've never thought of that. Most doors are ~8ft and that's regulation table size. WTF, me FTMFL. You FTW.

pwnt, missed this whole second page.....

There are literally 10202984738829399298377455392 different ways to get engine noise in your car stereo system......

You will still be able to feel it moving if the right one is going because they are sharing airspace and the pressure will move the cone on the left one. Check your wires, and if everything is hooked up right, you are probably experiencing loading issues(right sub has an easier time moving creating pressure and making it harder for the left sub to move) I've never been a fan of multi sub single port enclosures for specifically that reason.......

ENTIRE state of FL is 25ft ANY sound. Last noise ordinance ticket I got here was on SR 60 in Vero, and I saw the cops 1/4 mile away and turned it OFF(not down), still got pulled. Had 1 P3 12 on 600w.....

1st and dude, those speedo's are metal!!!11!one

Dremel tool>metal If you have a dremel, and a steady hand it takes MAYBE 15 minutes a door to cut a bigger hole. The main thing is to make sure you have clearance with the window down. Even if you are 1/2 inch short on clearance, you can buy/make a spacer.

x10

To find out exactly what you are drawing you would need to bench it. You can get an idea without actually benching it by looking at how much the amp is fused for, and then fusing the power wire a bit higher. Some companies actually list current draw for their amps, but not all....

I would go 250 unless you are drawing more and need the extra, but I've seen 300 used without issues.

However much your amps are fused for, maybe more i.e. You have a MRD-M605 which is fused for 70A(2x35A). Fuse the power wire for +70A. My rule of thumb is 60A for 8awg, 120 for 4awg, and 250-300 for 1/0awg. EDIT: Remember, the power wire fuse is to protect the wire and your car, not the amp. All that is necessary is that the fuse can handle the current drawn, but will still blow if there is a short.