STEvil

10,000 RMS and 10,000 Peak for a burp are very different.

Yeah, for short periods of time most people call "burps". If you run them below tuning on a ton of power they'll stink like anything else.

T-lines are tuned to what you want them to be, not to the Fs. Many people tune to the Fs because its easy. Its not correct, its easy. Break-in will depend on your usage habits. If you run a lot of excursion it will happen faster and you will lose latent (spider mainly) dampening capabilities. If you dont have excursion happening then break-in will take longer. Realistically break-in is mostly a myth and a non-issue, so dont worry about it.

Small, unfortunately.

I should mention the other amps I have on hand that may be used (will be attached to a battery plus charger if I use them). Fusion FCA4000D DD Z1 (needs repair) Lanzar Opti2000D (x2) Clarion 1001.2 (needs repair) Kicker XZ750.1 Vizonik 1400w (lol) .. and a pile of other small amps.

Yes. Found another amp in storage. Significantly more than 400w from it. Amp i'm going to use: Rauland CCA300 (tested over 400w @ 8 ohms) Second amp that may see use: Yorkville Audiopro 1200 I need to get an external crossover setup for them..

thanks!! there is an "uninturrupted build thread" here that is all pics and no talk........it will still take a minute to go thru though

Dont worry, I wont be feeding it 1KW lol Most i've got to throw its way is about 400w an an A/B amp.

10 times 28 cubic feet in length? huh? Liters is a volume measurement, not a length measurement. These specs might be a bit more correct, supposedly after testing 4 drivers these are the average numbers (came from "magnetar") but they seem.. way different. Fs: 31.61 Hz Re: 5.59 ohms Qms: 4.03 Qes: 0.38 Qts: 0.34 Vas: 9.69 cu. ft. SPL: 95 dB 1W/1m Anyways, a t-line will end up around 17ft^3 tuned to just under 30hz.. hm.

What do you guys think I should build? My current thoughts are either a tapped horn or a t-line (both are almost the same actually lol). Primarily going to be for home theater. I think the enclosure will have to build in two parts that bolt together to fit through doors and down stairs and stuff, lmao Here's the specs for anyone who wants to play: 1000w RMS 8 ohm single coil Fs 22hz Qms 2.7 Qes 0.153 Qts 0.1453 SPL 107 Vas 791L So, votes or ideas, or does anyone have something experimental they'd like to add to the thoughts pile? Especially looking for ideas to increase subsonic (0-25hz) output

too late to do it tonight, plus i've only got about 100w to put to it until I get the rest of my amps figured out....

Gotta hook the pyle up to something.. needs a box yet too.

Bad ground.

Sounds like the virus my brothers laptop had.. I forget the name of it but the eventual fix was to format it and reinstall the OS because none of the tools available would remove it (I think I tried about 25+ tools).

they're kind of like magnets and rainbows: nobody knows!

both ported and sealed would be a bandpass enclosure. Steve's box is ported.

; ) http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/93195-eight-21s-on-5000w/

when you reach a certain amount of cone area in a confined space cancellation doesnt really matter anymore. that said, the box needs a lot of work (not the hoopty's).

I've got a pyle 21 being shipped to me so I should have it in my hands in a week or two.. i'll let you know how they fare to some quick abuse..

put a (flat) cone in the center of two motors... spider package on each side too.

get a virtual machine program the install it on the VM and use it as many times as you like

bolt a chunk of mdf behind the seat and use the entire trunk as the box lol.. works surprisingly well, though you could do better I guess.....

square subs work ok in a t-line if you angle the sub a bit. If you leave it face-on then one side of it will "load" more making it rock or tilt.. round drivers do this too, but not as badly. I'd like to hear an L7 in a T-line, never heard one yet..

120v power consumption: 2.5A. Thats def not 700w. Whats the price on it? Probably get a pyle 21 and build your own enclosure with a cheap amp for same price or less ($500 at the most maybe).

If its the tracks letting the window fall out, brace the tracks.