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  1. You will need somebody to model the sub. Might help if you know or show all the TS specs. Once modeled, you can get an idea on size or if the speaker even works in a 4th order. I thought by memory, those subs like big ported boxes, could be wrong
  2. OP, I would say have some model before you do anything. Even after modeling, you sometimes have to build and play it to make adjustments. In my experience with 4ths and I have run a few. The big ratio subs had a lot of gain and didnt help with bandwidth. The bandwidth was more a function of the tuning. The ones that had very good bandwidth had smaller ratios like 2:1 and higher tuning like 40 to 45, I had one that was 50hz and played from 70 down.
  3. How does the dayton sound? I have looked at them, but some mention they sound can be dry. I guess they skew more to the SQ side than the bump sound.
  4. Did you ever finish a review on this? I've asked on several forums about this processor and haven't got anything. My local audio control dealers have not sold any and can't tell me much about it. I have to use a loc so I figured might as well get the processing in the same unit and was gonna use an audio control loc.
  5. The 2 systems that I will never get out of my head. Ive searched for that experience ever since. 1st was a shop Astro van for a local shop. Shop was really have in high end home audio and brought car audio in for a couple of years. They used all Infinity Beta except the tweeters which were the Infinity kappa ribbon tweeters. 4 Beta 12's, 6 Beta 6's (3 in each front door in pods), Beta 4s in the dash, and Infinity Ribbons in the A pillar, All US Amps with I think was a Denon head unit. That thing was loud and crisp. My cousin and I sat in the front seats and both our jaws dropped. He played a bunch of music but once he put that Deathrow cd in, it was over. 2nd car was a Cadillac Deville a shop just finished. Car was like 92 body style. Installer took me out to the bay to listen to it because they were surprised by it. All I remember was a 4th order with 4 12 round solobarics ported through the rear deck. The one thing that I never forget is it sounded like music. It hit hard, but was musical not just bang. The other thing was it didn't have any rattles. They open and shut the doors a couple of times and it basically sounded like bass with door open and vault with the door closed.
  6. You can reduce the area of the line, but it will come at a cost of reduced efficiency. You need to keep the mouth area the same to avoid vent noise. If you reduce the taper the line will probably have to lengthen to keep tuning the same. Its all a big balancing act and everything you change will have an effect. As far as how to mount the subs on the line, you want the middle of each sub to be equal distance from the ideal mounting point (38.5" from the closed end in this case). So if you can't mount them side by side, you could mount one 6" or whatever in front of the ideal spot and the other 6" or whatever behind the ideal spot. As long the they are both equal. I didn't really explain that well, but hopefully you get what I'm trying to say. Is there a rule on how much you can reduce line area? I see a few designers say they do this but trying to figure out what the rule is, ex. is up to 20% acceptable?
  7. I also want to understand how you figure out compression chambers? I see them on several T lines but the owners never can tell you how to figure out the size. Most cases they bought the designs or copied something they found.
  8. I was looking at the DD 6.5 subs first, but saw these and think they might work as well but are cheaper. Pulled the specs from their site and will power them with an old Rockford 800a2, so a clean 800 rms 4ohm. Each sub will see 200 watts at 4 ohms which also works better for my amp. impedence (ohm) 4 power (rms) 150 power (peak) 300 vc (inch) 1.5A/4 magnet (oz) 60 dcr (ohM) 3.2 L (mh) 2.288 fs (hz) 48.8 sd (msqM) 12.27 bl ™ 10.74 qms 4.334 qes 0.438 qts 0.397 n (%) 0.113 SPLo (dB) 82.6 vas (L) 4.423 Cms (mmm/N) 206.84 Mms (G) 51.5 Mmd (G) 50.7 Xmax (mm) 8 MD (mm) 105 OD (mm) 166.5 OH (mm) 122 MD (mm) 105 I was orginally thinking a 4th order at 1 cube common sealed and 1.5 ported at 50hz. I hadnt figured out port area, but want it to more musical so would be smaller. I also kicked around the idea of a T line. I dont car about metering or SPL. Looking for decent thump from 70 down in a Pathfinder Hatch. I also want to get as much low end out of the set up as possible thats why the thought of a T line. What do you guys think?
  9. If I am looking at this correctly, you have roughly 3 cub sealed playing into 13 cube ported with close to 300 square inches of port. I also see that you might have a higher tuning frequency like almost 55. From what I know about 4ths, that will be loud as piss but peaky as hell. I am also not sure how low it will play with the sealed section being that small compared to the ported side.
  10. Looking at that sanitarium build, how is that considered a 4th order? It doest look like any part of it sealed playing to a ported sections. Wouldnt this really be called a really huge horn becuase it is basically a huge port? Im not saying anything is wrong with what he did, I just trying to figure out how that was considered a 4th.
  11. when IB is done right with correct woofers, it sounds incredible. If you have a good baffle and deaden things, you dont have to have a sealed off trunk. This was back in the day, but one of the best sub systems I ever heard was an old manager at Circuit City. The guy had a thunderbird with 6 sound stream 10's playing IB in his trunk. Everything but the subs was stuff we sold at CC. Each pair of subs had its own amp and that thing cranked, played super low, but was on the most musical systems I ever heard. His was one of the few cars that home audio guys say in and loved, but kids like me at the time who listened to rap were like holy hell. It was also cool to pop his trunk and see 6 magnets just bolted to the deck and back seat.
  12. depends on what you are trying to do. The .76 sealed should play lower and louder with that large ported section, but the tuning seems high. I dont know much about that woofer, but most of the 4ths I see are not tuned over 50 especially if you are trying to get low.
  13. When looking around on forums, you see a lot of people moving to 8 inchers. Damn I cant tell you how many build logs I have seen with the 1508's, e8's, 8w7's, l5 and l7's being used. I know it really is the box, but will an 8 will drop like a larger woofer? I think this is why I am trying to figure out transmission lines. I would love have decent drop in my system and pop the hatch and show people a pair of 8's.
  14. I've been thinking of coming out of the dark ages and not using my round solobaric 15". I see all these guys doing 8's now. Is this just a for shock factor and being able to say I only have 8's or do these subs drop as low as 12's and 15's. what are you thoughts on 8's. I'm really thinking about trying 3 or 4 8's. I know it all depends on box design and woofer, but do these 8's really sound that good?
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