ChevyBoy95

Level 4 or 5? The Q and the DC work in larger enclosures ( about 6 cubes and above) the Zv.3 works in 4-5 cubes that's a big difference when lacking space, if going with those other brands better a couple of 12s which will fit in 4.5-5 cubes comfortably but two subs will cost more and need more power. where did you hear this? have you used them in smaller than recommended enclosures? yes they work in larger enclosures but can perform extremely well in small enclosures too. level 5 18s can be ran down to 5.5 cubes if paired with the right power levels. I ran one in 5.5 and it worked wonderfully, just 3k wouldnt really move it too much. edit: with only 1700 rms and 6 gross, i would look into lower powered 18s in the 1000rms range so the extra power in the smaller box. Getting an XL or level 5 would be pointless anyway on that power in around 5-5.5 cubes. Yes you have a point there, i was looking at the Audio Que HD318. rated at only 1000 watts, not too bad? except AQ does like BIG boxes for the most part, so running under 6.5cubes could be an issue, i would pm ami customs, he has ran AQ 18s for quite sometime and knows a good amount about what they like and dont like. here is his profile link http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/39011-ami-customs/

Level 4 or 5? The Q and the DC work in larger enclosures ( about 6 cubes and above) the Zv.3 works in 4-5 cubes that's a big difference when lacking space, if going with those other brands better a couple of 12s which will fit in 4.5-5 cubes comfortably but two subs will cost more and need more power. where did you hear this? have you used them in smaller than recommended enclosures? yes they work in larger enclosures but can perform extremely well in small enclosures too. level 5 18s can be ran down to 5.5 cubes if paired with the right power levels. I ran one in 5.5 and it worked wonderfully, just 3k wouldnt really move it too much. edit: with only 1700 rms and 6 gross, i would look into lower powered 18s in the 1000rms range so the extra power in the smaller box. Getting an XL or level 5 would be pointless anyway on that power in around 5-5.5 cubes.

here is a better link with side shots http://www.qualitycaraudio.com/store/viewitem.asp?sku=XXLDB8000D

link?

what is the best to use, will be bonding to glass and the rubber seal. I know high strength, but what brand, model, etc, so i dont get the wrong shit.

AA/Fi or SSA over all of those anyday of the week. edit: might get locked, but might not, no bashing is going on, just suggestions. hopefully it will stay open as long as the posts stay how they are.

the m1 motors work with all m2 recones, like 99.9% sure. why dont you email ana, and she will email you back promptly. who, is ana, and what is her email address. and loudpursuit- i know looking at the 2, the m1 has the basket attached directly to the motor, and the m2 has spacers (1/2inch i think) [email protected]

there are 2 motor designs, one with just a pole vent, the other has the 6 vents and the pole vent, and the basket like he said might be spaced differently.

the m1 motors work with all m2 recones, like 99.9% sure. why dont you email ana, and she will email you back promptly.

ummmm..... what auto-correct??

Goose is overplayed, it aint that great, I mean it is good though, but Tito's is where it is at. But mainly for taste you cant beat some McCallen 15, FYI not vodka for those who don't know what it is.

eventually, but still after my 2 15s set up want to do a m2 6 18.

yes it is an EXT cab, not a full size. this is not my truck, but same cab style

cant be pushed out unfortunately, they have the latch/swivel style. and i can tell there is more pressure on the passenger one because when both are open, even with the port firing drivers side, the passenger window flexes about 1in (.5in each way), and the drivers does about .5 or less total. but i might have to use the adhesive.

heard my dads buddy's special edition harley and it was crystal full blast with the bike running. i say do the systems, when done right they can really help out the look of bikes too, seeing 4 5.25"s and 2 6.5"s on a bike with nice grills looks sick. edit: tuned how it will be done on a ninja, curious.

With the new system which is the loudest i have had in my truck, a lot of rattling has been rooted out, but much still remains. In my ext cab, the side windows on peakier notes like to slap and it is quite loud, enough to hear over full tilt and really dont know what to do to prevent it. Expanding foam did wonders on the rear side panels along with 80mil and padding. still doing to do a "air guide" so to speak directing the side firing port to the back of the drivers seat and off one of the side windows/side of the truck, and do a trim panel on the passenger side hoping to seal off the lower panel from compression and air movement. any advice from truck users would be great. system: 2 XL 15s, 4krms. peakiest notes are from 27hz-35hz.

i have used window scrapers before, (the ones with razor blades about 4in long) and it worked like a charm ON THE WINDSHIELDS/SIDE WINDOWS, havent tried it on paint.

Your gain isn't 43v, most top out at .2v-8v. I think you are talking about output voltage (AC?) by the speaker terminals which is how you set your gain.

you need to hear and upper 150 with more cone area, like 3 18s, 4 15s, and such. A 150 fart doesnt give the full experience of a true 150 db cherry pop. 150s in the mid 30s is where it is at.

i swear... that amp is 14in long. Please read the OP's post.

seriously, never have to replace the windshield again.

dues ex had a GREAT story line to it.

skip01!!! great reviews, kinda want to buy one to see what all the talk or lack of is about.

in reality you can just say it will be louder or quieter. there are SO many factors playing that any judgement is essentially useless. all i can say is that they get loud for an 8, my loud is different from your thought of loud, and probably different from anyone else opinion of loud. i CAN tell you they dont sound like 8's with how much throw they have.

100 shipped