ChevyBoy95

I mean strapping two 500 watt amps, I guess I worded it bad. But yea, I meant more power aka 1000rms at 2 ohms is more expensive than 1000rms at 1 ohm. I have two 1200s and they are solid little amps, quite small too.

If you can find a used audioque 1200d you can get 1200rms @ 1 ohm for about 210-220 shipped.

Only thing, your limited to alpine and kicker when getting a D1 sub, or strapping amps which i don't think they have at 500 watts. If your going to upgrade amps, you might want to spend a little more and get the 1krms and you will save in the long run.

Yea, less power = bigger enclosure but when I had my 4s they got loud off nothing, and play with more authority as you add power. As far as the 4 I don't know if I would call it an SQ sub but they sound really good IMO musically and can get loud. normal Rec specs or slightly bigger will be fine, and 35hz is ok too.

he has a sexy ass truck. and for some reason i dig the cones and dustcaps on those subs.

power = 80-100watts if at 4 ohms, 150ish if at 2 enclosure would be the stock door location near the kick (deadened completely, i mean the door) the tweets would be where the switches on the door are pointing at a 25ish degree angle towards the center, mids in stock location. I dont want to cut it not because of fear or inexperience, but basically its my father, its my truck(but he has title and true ownership, im the listed driver or some ish) but if the time came to get a new vehicle and sell it, he wants it to be able to return to completely stock. everything i have done so far is reversible except deadener. The sub is firing up along with the port behind me yes. I may have to opt to kicks and run 2 sets. Just trying to keep it simple too. BUDGET IS WHATEVER, IF THEY GET LOUD ILL SAVE UP FOR THEM, but right now probably 250-300ish or lower.

they held up kinda to 2 level 4 15s i had, but not close for the lv5 I'm confused, you already know they won't hold up but asked about them anyway? Or have I just totally missed something here. i thought you were referring to the kickers i had, i didnt think when i read your post, by bad.

i have room for about 4.5in of depth and the mag can be as big as the hole, nothing is there to obstruct, ill look into those. they held up kinda to 2 level 4 15s i had, but not close for the lv5

My doors get drowned out almost completely by my sub (lv5 18) and was wondering if there is a pair (singular) of 6.5s that can get loud enough to keep up. they will be going in stock location, only reason i dont want more than 1 pair is because i refuse to cut up on my door panels. was thinking about These but not sure how loud they get. Will be run on 80-100rms at 4 ohms or about 150ish if ran at 2 ohms per channel. and atm i have kicker ks60.2s which start to not like the power when the volume goes up around 25 on some songs(loose clarity and get harsh and distort, and my gains are set for 29.

could be, ill try the pb blaster, the bracket just obviously hasnt been messed with in its 16years of life. I got the other one off easy, but this one had to be a bitch and cause trouble...

i would but one of the bolts that holds it on is rounded over one the sides where when you try and loosen it the wrench moves but the nut doesnt.

5.7L V8, not the vortec, i dont think my year had a vortec option, i think that was available the year after.

I'll get one in a few hours

Piece is about 1.5in wide too. Could I bend it with a wrench? Only reason I'm asking is because I don't want to take the alt off again if I don't know a probable way to bend it.(get some ideas then take a wack at it).

I'm on mobile so no pics right now. Cant sand or grind for clearance. It's not stainless or higher chrome alloy. It's just painted steel, I just need to bend like from say factory being at a 90 (vertical) a little piece of it at a 45 that is about 2 in long. It is the third arm to the stock alt(two sides like norm, then the metal I'm talking about to another bolt spot on the lower back of the stock alt)

I think the metal is steel, but what I am getting at is bending part of the stock alt bracket so my HO one will fit. I think it only needs to be bent a little. Was wondering if there is a way to do this with it still under the hood. I don't have access to a torch to heat the metal. Is there a proper way to do this or should I hit the f**k out of it for a little?( given I don't want to break anything)

Ok, 1000 for a complete system will actually be somewhat of a challenge to do. Wires, multiple amps, sub, speakers, materials, enclosure, sound dampening, etc. Don't get me wrong, it is do-able, but you need to make sure you get the best bang for your buck. There are many companies that are budget friendly and preform. To get clear, subwoofers play or are filtered usually to play 25-80 or 90hz. The reason his/friends sub hits higher notes well like in the high 40s/50s is probably due to a prefabricated enclosure he bought which are ALWAYS tuned high which causes the loudness to ear when hearing higher notes(a guess but usually what beginning enthusiasts/bassheads have). A daily custom enclosure that anyone can make if they have a jigsaw and a drill should be tuned around 33-38hz depending on music preference and made from MDF or Birch. That's all I got for now, going to sleep.

Tomatoes or tamatoes?

And I think it's just the way when people are young new situations are fearful, and everyone is picked out by how they react.

Everyone gets made fun of at some point, later on it's no big deal. But when I was in kindergarden, I cried the first day.. Lol. Elmo was my homie and kept me strapped. But I had severe nose bleeds, like blood tested, multiple doctors, etc. But I dont think I was ever made fun of so I can't really speak on that. Toys help is all im getting at.

only reason i knew to suggest that is because i had to do it to my truck. Its a little 3in by 3in and 1in thick little black box with a hole in it. Mine was under the dash. I think its like a 40 dollar or so part iirc, its been a while. it is this without the metal on the top and whatever behind it. like i said before, get a OBD1 or OBD2 meter depending on the make and year of your vehicle and hook it up, turn accesories on and it will spit out a code, look up the code and it will tell you whats wrong.

Might be obd, not sure, either odb or obd meter and one will be for 1996- later and another will be 1996ish to present

You may have a actuator that switches between hot and cold, I had the same issue with hot and cold not switching. I think it is called a mode door actuator. Could be that. Get a odb meter and check it. (rent or borrow one from a auto store, they are like 250 if u buy 1)

I would need to grind off about an 1/8th(thick not height on about a 2sq in area) on the bracket in my engine. I would just expect to hear that before I buy a 450 dollar alt.