baaudio

eh its a cool piece. id put it in a mancave. jl probably has a special sub for this application. just swapping it out with another would prolly be a bad idea because the passive radiator is tuned to work with the jl sub. i like it

as big as the box is why not just try walling it off?

cool idea but how long will it take to pay off? google says theyve saved over $100k in the past 9 months, yet these cost $700-800k a piece. Google says they're running 4 in that example. Obviously once these reach the $3000 goal it will be much more cost effective. but ya definitely an interesting concept

4.0L? No more windshield wiper fluid with that set up, huh? eh not yet. ive gotta find a tank that will work for it. but im gonna put it in at some point. not really missing it though

heres my dual batt setup in my explorer. just got it all set up. dual xs d6500s ftw!

Ya the sub has about 1/2" of clearance. It's a d3 10. The d1s were on backorder til end of the week so I couldn't flush it. But ya I'm already wanting to wrap more stuff. Vinyl just looks so clean

okay so i got bored on my day off and decided to build a custom center console sub box for my car. its a single ten in ~.75 cubes on 500 watts. turned out decent. it was my first time working with vinyl and im planning on trying to rewrap it. so dont be too harsh guys haha. i used 1/4" masonite to get the shape of the bottom and then 1/2" mdf for the rest. stuffed with polyfill too to try and help out some. it sounds great. obviously with the 8 10s going it really isnt noticeable but for low volume its great, or if i ever have the big box out i still have bass

nice dude. i love how subs sound on boats. im building a custom system in my buddies this summer with 4 12s on 2k rms. should be nasty

Mobile works great for me on my iPhone. I don't see a need for an app

are you running 2000 watts at 1 or 2 ohms? that will make a difference too

if you mean the system my build log is in my sig lol. and the blue wire running across the back is a ground wire. the positive from alt to pass side batt is fused and wire connecting both batts is fused on both ends just hard to see.

you could try finding a hole that goes from the trunk into the pillar and fill it with expanding foam or cover it with deadener

thats most likely a kicker comp like sub then, maybe a cvr/cvt if youre lucky

ya now i just need the alternator power to keep voltage up! ya thats what i hate. if you check out my build log i was able to squeeze my tiny kinetik hc800 behind a panel on the drivers side. the opening in the rear pass side is perfect but my power wires run drivers side. although that may change soon.

heres the final pictures. still trying to find a smaller washer fluid tank but space is really tight now. before: after:

honestly this was super easy once i figured out where i wanted the battery to be. right now the cruise and spare coolant tank are just zip tied in place. the hardest part was making the brackets to hold the battery. that took some creativity lol. ill post more pics once i have it installed officially, right now im painting the brackets and waiting on wire to set it up.

its in that spot. i wouldnt leave it out lol. washer fluid is whatever, but you NEED a coolant tank

lol its cool bro

i got my hands on a second d6500 and wanted to try getting it to fit under the hood. i got a second coolant tank from the junkyard, so the only thing im losing is the front washer fluid reservoir but im gonna try to find a spot for that tank too. anyways onto the pics. where the batts going both coolant and washer fluid tanks removed, had to move my cruise control too like a glove the positive terminal is right underneath one of the contours in the hood so i have plenty of clearance first bracket made. you cant see but it wraps around the side and hooks the bottom and sits on the wheel well second bracket. uses a stud from the coolant mounts and hooks over the top to keep batt from rocking. done. just gotta paint the brackets now. you can see where i moved the cruise control to. its the little black piece with the little silver cap

generally speaking, 1/0 awg ofc wire is rated for 300 amps, 1/0 awg cca wire is rated for 250. for your 3000 rms i would recommend doing two runs to the rear if possible. only 1 run may choke the system some

i wasnt sure if the aq's came in dual 4 or dual 1. but ya either would get a 1 ohm load

and get dual 4s. unless youre going for a .5 ohm load

ive been told i have the equivalent of an 8.0 inch woofer in my car. i just tell people its more cone then 2 18s