blackrosetiger

Test Tones

DP FML

Just remember when you upgrade your amps you'll have to upgrade your electrical as well (aka Batteries and/or H/O Alt). If your Chevy has the stock 105 amp alt you'll only be able to push around 1500 watts rms safely. Push it any harder and you'll start frying things most likely the alt.

No shit sherlock hence why I said sub frame. ALL vehicals have some sort of frame even unibodies. What the fuck do you think the motor mounts to? This is pointless. Im done arguing with an idiot shade tree mechanic. Peace.

ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha. You've obviously have never owned or worked a true steel body, because if you have you would know exactly how hard it is to pull a dent out. Newer cars use aluminum alloy bodys. I never once said it was PURE aluminum. Yes a pure aluminum body like what was used on Shelby Cobras are very expensive, but so is steel. But thats all besides the point. The shock tower is not as good a ground as the frame/sub frame.

LOL what DO you think a body is made of? Unless its a Corvette (Which has a fiberglass body, or a pre 80s car, 99% of all cars have aluminum bodies. But like I said I would ground to the frame/ sub frame. Then again its not my car to burn to the ground.

i dont want to disagree with you but that is a very good ground spot. as long as he kept his factory ground also and he ground it down to bare metal. but the strut mount bolt is connected to the whole body and with a very thick spot of metal. not like the factory one that goes to the thinnest spot on the car. Aluminum no matter how thick it is, is never as good a ground as steel. It has to do with the electrical properties of said metal. My advice would be to ground to the frame/sub frame.

1 ground goes to the strut mount,This isnt a very good ground spot. I'd be willing to bet that thats the problem.

I would just like to say thank you for your service/sacrifice for this country. Its about time you got to come home.

Hole saw & a grommet. If Im reading this correct your battery is on the drivers side so there for run power/remote on drivers side. RCAs on passanger side. The reason you do this is 1.because the longer your wires/RCA's the more resistance you're going to have. And 2. You can have the best shielded RCA's in the world but if they're run next to power (Even a remote power wire) you'll get interference.

Sub amp Amp wire kit boxHead Unit Total: $430 plus shipping for the sub. I suggested the 5ch amp so you'll be able to upgrade your stock speakers in the future and be able to amp them. After you get that going THEN you can switch out your amps for more power.

I believe a stock 3.4 has a 135 amp alt IF its the same as my 89 Sonoma

Now the only thing I see missing is the toy hauler behind it lol. And to think all I want is 6 10s lol.

the solution a new grade 8 bolt and a tap and die set Tap & Die

This is a good primer gun not super expensive but not cheap either. http://www.amazon.com/Iwata-IWA9230-AZ3HV2-13GC-HVLP-SPRAY/dp/B003YHHSY2/ref=sr_1_37?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1284942149&sr=1-37 If you're looking for the best. It'll set you back a few http://www.amazon.com/Iwata-IWA5662-LPH400-134LVX-Extreme-Basecoat/dp/B001AMSU7M/ref=sr_1_61?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1284942152&sr=1-61

do NOT get a sand blaster instead use a soda blaster its much much easier and doesnt pit like a sand blaster will. Its what I used on my 68 cutless and made my life so much easier.

Ok so apparently a Japanese guy has invented a way to convert plastic to oil...gas....diesel...etc Whats anybodys thoughts on this?

x2 its street legal and its nice to play around on road and off. Its alot cheaper to fix too if you dump it bad. go with a four stroke though

it sounds like its your cv joint to me. its really hard to diagnose something like that without seeing your car.

Just a tip but if you're going to be adding on to your electrical its ALWAYS better to get a higher voltage alt. This is because your stock alt is just designed to run your stock electrical. If nothing else get a second battery like a kinetic or XS Power. Something designed for audio systems. just my .02

Your Price:$2.95 EA (1-3) $2.65 EA (4+) you only need 1 per speaker and besides its a hell of alot cheaper then a amp

What ever Bill says DOOOOOO it. He knows his shit

may not be the frequency you want but theres a bunch to choose from Bass Stopper

Thanks for the input. Im not sure if the HIDs would fit or not. I've heard horror stories with HIDs on Voyagers so I think Ill save myself the headache. Its a one bulb harness so having HIDs for both low and high beams would be a nightmare I'd be blowing ballist left and right. But with these bulbs being 7000ks I'd get the same effect with the halogens and projectors. I was leaning towards the chrome because the only after market taillights I can find are Altezza style unless I pay 2 to 3x more for LEDs. The interior will eventually be turned black with either purple or green accents(Its grey for now)

if its demanding more current then it can handle then yes that wire would need to be bigger. Have you checked it with a DMM and compaired it to the stock fuses? bigger load = bigger fuse. at 3k rpm (if the pulley is smaller then stock) it should have more of a demand then with the stock so it blows sooner. (your pulley is spinning faster with a smaller pulley then it is with the stock one therefore it'll blow at lower rpms)if nothing else try sticking in a larger fuse and see what happens. I can almost guarantee that will solve your problem if it does then boon is right the circuit cant handle the load