Socky

Those subs will handle the power nicely at .5ohm, xxx's are underrated like all re subs. As long as you set the gain right and not clipping you should be fine running them at .5ohm.

Thats a decent battery, you should look into adding a agm battery to the rear of your car, since you are pushing roughly 2k, you definately need a 2nd battery to help maintain the proper voltage.

looks sick man, cant wait for the rebuild.

oh, i thought you would only have 1 sub, but if its two, they should handle that power with ease, may i ask, what is your electrical that you have already?

if i were you, i would stay away from boss car audio, for cheap subs that are fairly decent i would do this http://www.audiosavings.com/products/12-Inch-Car-Subwoofer/Pair-of-Hifonics-HFX12D4-HF-Series-12-800-Watt-DVC-4-Ohm-Car-Subwoofers-Bundle/%282%29+HFX12D4.aspx One of the best subs on a budget, look into those for the price, you will damn need push them full tilt, in the right enclosure they will meet your demands.

kenwoods are pretty decent decks, i wouldnt mind having one, but i would rather pic pioneer, more options, and will last longer.

You might have to make your own fuse holder, if i remember right, when rockford had 2/0 that had fuse holders for them, but if i were you it would be cheaper to make your own. Then they make terminals for that big of wire to, 1 run of 2/0 equals like 2 runs of 1/0 if i remember correctly, correct me if im wrong.

I wouldnt do it with that big of a box, i would just run it at 2 ohm, maybe if the box was aroung 6-7 cubes then yea i would say go for it.

Yes your amp is stable at the ohm, all you do is look at the white peice that the terminals are on, you should see a + or a -, wire it parallel, means positive to positive, negative to negative. edit: looking at it, after i replied, looks to see one is a postive, the other side is a negative, since their is only one lead wiring come off the terminals. I would use a 9v battery and test to see which is the right phase.

depends if you got the american made optima, which i have one in my truck, its the 1000 cranking amps. The mexico ones are 900 or 950 cant remember.

newegg is pretty decent. Ive bought a few things from there.

You talking about headlights or interior lights, if its headlights, just change them out to hid's, they will dim no matter what.

yes but you will need to gain match them, or get an amp that is strappable.

yea true kranny, my trucks windshield started to flex on 150 watts, and 2 15s tuned to 35 in a small box.

the 3000d is a 2 channel amp, hook each sub up to 1 channel, run the channel at 1 ohm. Nuff said. or a crescendo 2k run it at .5 ohm. draw even more current.

audiopipe 3000D

9v battery will work as well.

ROFL

I would stay, change the 3400s, to 3100's and make it 4 then you should be fine for now. What will be the ohm load, if its below 1 ohm may add another batt.

The new m2's motor isnt stronger, just better cooling is what ive read so far about them. But anyways i would stick with the new m2's and a better amp.

kk thnx bro. what kinda electrical u think will be needed? big 3, new batt under hood and 0g power/grounds good enough? or should i throw a extra batt in the back too just to make sure. depends on how big your stock alt, but i would definately do the big 3, then upgrade the front batt to a agm battery.

1 18, that way you can put money towards a mids and highs setup to keep up with it.

Are you running it without a step down module?

id start the goal with a 150 lol, then would run 4 of the new 15" m2 xl's on 2 7.5k's strapped at 1.4 ohms..

Just sit on the front port waiting for them lol.