Decaf

all sizes, all models price quote... 60115

yes switch one amp to master and one to slave, connect rca to master from headunit, connect rca from master to slave positive speaker wires go into positive speaker terminal on master negative speaker wires go into positive speaker terminal on slave jumper between negatives on master and slave in essence you are wiring the amps in series.

I dont get why people would PAY for reducers... just cut the effin wire to fit and BAAMMM, its been reduced! nice sub/amp combo

ttt

i would think it would be closer to 3mΩ stinger2250/2150 has one of the lowest resistances for large batts btw

split the front rcas of the headunit for the sundown100.4. leave the rear/subwoofer rcas on headunit for a subwoofer amp. thats what i would do

you need to use IMG code a few things - how do u plan to make an opening 2.4" accurately... stick with 2 1/2 or 2 3/8 - wheres the .1cuft of bracing coming from... is that an estimate or did u actually measure displacement of bracing - you could inverse mount the sub and gain .21cuft bringing volume up to 3.18cuft also

u can use the pass-thru on an amp, or splitters off of headunit. what headunit are you using 4g power/ground 12-16g speaker is fine

Is it in your lease that they can charge $500 and add each day you are late??? that sounds rather fishy we get charged $25 once for being late where i stay and have until the next rent to pay that, they aren't trying to kick us out

60115 5-6cuft

t9515-04 is single... its still a nice sub, you just need more power now @ 4ohms

look on the bottom of the sub if the model ends in 22 or 44 its a dual voice coil if the model ends in 02 or 04 its a single voice coil re of single coil is 3.66 re of dual coil is 3.42

so you are testing it while its wired like above, correct?

2 full length 6" aeros should work well with 36.5*17*26 puts you at about 33/34hz

if they are on ur comp, use full editor to the right of the post button and add them as an attachment

we need port area, not sqin/cuft to help also, pics would help

thanks^ 1 gone 1 left 300local/360shipped sub is like new

thats why i cut my hair myself... got tired of tipping to be disappointed

lowes cuts are never accurate fyi are you 100% u can physically put a box 30"d inside the trunk? random port wall? whats the width of the port? ssa forum has stickied box plans, check it out and see if any match your manufacturer specs

microwave prevented the fire from growing i bet... kept flames away from the cabinet

dd-1 it, then turn it down by dmm method... its not going to be accurate because of every note sees different power why not dd-1 it to -5db and just use the sub level on deck to lower the voltage going to the sub amp

ttt make some offers

mids/highs are a bit FRESH but its loud for sure

the best option would be to test the unit without speakers connected at all before complete installation of the headunit but you can also test the headunits internal amp if you test that way, connecting the positive probe to one of the speaker leads off the headunit. then if you choose to have tweeters/stock speakers still connected you know how high you can go because it will almost always be lower than the distortion point of the rcas

Ok you win user error I will post some vids shortly, but I need to read more and not assume things , I just figured to keep everything at 0 for best SQ I see this isn't always the case. If you don't mind me asking what is the differance between 0db and a -db or if there is a post already I would be happy to read. Thanks again now I feel stupid for trying so much and what now when it was a easy error. 0db is as loud as you can get cleanly. -10db is the same tone just quieter/smaller amplitude wave. when setting your gain this means you will turn the gain up higher for -10db vs 0db because the -10db is quieter and takes more sensitivity(gain/level) for the amp to match the output of a 0db signal