JaM Customs aka mprete

well you would have to buy a kit or else nothing will be right. even if your a fabricator, your not and engineer. but they are very simple set ups. look at pictures of prefabed race cars that have a 4-link just to get an idea of what you will be getting in to. also, if you want a better ride..... then dont buy a ford.....lol.... or an suv for that matter.... but really try to find some softer coil springs or something.

this is true...even the best of us forget something, or overlook something from time to time... to the OP...please have this looked at by a fresh pair of eyes....experienced eyes agreed. and like someone said before you can end up with a burned up car or a whole mess of wiring and electrical problems with will cost more then the car is worth to fix it. if no fuses blew i would check your positive to the alternator. there is no fuse on that wire and if it shorted then it would kill the car.

you adding the terminals probably dont have anything to do with the problem. but if you did anything with the wires, re check them and make sure all the terminals and bolts are tight. and dont assume anything. physically look at it and pull on it and move it. dont just look and think shit is tight. we all forget stuff.

dont make fun of it i put a lot of work into it lol but here you go. this is only for low beam headlights cuz you dont need high beams. good luck. if you have a specific question try to pm me so i dont have to keep track of the thread.

hey. you will need some sort of switch at the brake pedal to activate the brake light. but like on a car. but if i may ask why do you need a brake light? i understand a tail light but not really a brake light. anyway. also check and make sure your tractor is on a 12v system, some are on 6 volts... but just get a small fuse box with room for at least 4 fuses. wire a power to the fuse block which will give you your power, but put a on off switch in between the power so you supply power to the fuses when you turn the switch on. run 2 wires to each tail light (both power) and ground it somewhere in the back where the lights are. do the same with the headlights. then wire a switch under your brake pedal and put a power from your fuses to it and then one out of it and split it to your brake lights. and a wire to the switch on the brake pedal. i will draw a picture for you, i just have to turn on my desk top to get into paint. give me a little while.

it was the crankshaft position sensor.

how is money made off youtube by a person like steve??

i no right. i found him on youtube like 2 or 3 years ago and since ive got both his cds but he hasent been around for a while or made anything new at all. i hope some ass hole producer or whatever didnt get a hold of him. he was good on his own.

hand down, ronald jenkees is the best damn keyboard player that ever lived!! and if anyone knows, where the hell has he been fot the last like year, no new videos or songs or anything.

apply to several that you WANT TO GO TO and pick the best one that you make it in to.

agreed^^^^

yes, how could forget my favorite site. they are awesome over there. with live chat and stuff you can get help very easy

no it must be in neutral to shift into or out of 4LO. the transfer case has to change to the lower gear ratio and can not do so if its still in drive. but yea just buy a new actuator and call it a day. it might also help to read through the manual in the 4x4 section just to make sure your not doing anyhting wrong.

no you wont... a 3 in body lift is very big and you will see the body mounts when you look at the truck. if you just keep turning the torsion bars then your ride quality will got much worse then it already is. look at these 2 places. the first is my favorite company and then look at pro comp. they will cost from 900-2000. 4 inch lift recommends 33x12.5 tires. body lifts you can do a 3 inch body lift if you dont mind people seeing it. but you can also out a suspension and a body lift. it dont matter. just remember when you do a body lift you have to make sure all your wires and stuff are long enough and dont get stretched or broke. just ask if you have any other questions http://roughcountry.com/chevy_4wd_88-98_4.html http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits-Suspensions-and-Shocks/Lift-Kit-Suspension-w-Shock.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=38&t_pt=5491

you might end up having to buy a new master cylinder. power steering fluid makes anything rubber (hoses, gaskets, o-rings) expand,so your master might start to not work right because all the o-rings inside are out of place and stuff. there for like a bunch of people said, take it out with a baster type of tool. DO NOT BLEED ALL OF IT THROUGH THE SYSTEM!!! your rubber hoses at each wheel have not been exposed to it yet. and do not use ANY other type of fluid in the system. do not flush any kind of alcohol through it or anything else. you should really take the lines off the master and and drain the whole master and then flush new brake fluid through until you dont see power steering fluid any more or you run out of the bottle. then attach all the lines again and bleed the whole system to make sure no air is in it. but make sure you bleed a lot of fluid through just to make sure no more power steering fluid is in it. but dont freak out or anything power steering fluid is very similar to brake fluid and will work the same way. it just fucks up rubber. it might be a few months before anything even happens from it but if its left there shit will get fucked

ok actually its this one i think. https://shoppingcartsecure.com/cart32.exe/9893563515-AddItem?partno=1420002&Qty=1 if you can find out exactly what t-case you have that would help greatly. and if its all electronic (3 push buttons) or with a lever on the floor

i believe this is what your looking for. but where its at... im still looking http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/parts/chevrolet/tahoe/transfer_case/transfer_case_actuator.html?3593=44916 or one of these look up your specific truck at the bottom and click on the part number and thats what you need http://www.naparts.com/ProductDetail.cfm?ProductId=2818

not exactly but its on the transfer case itself. i think on the left (driver) side near the top? google it. you will find it. if not just say so and ill look it up for you. but not using the 4x4 will not cause it to stick. and electrical wont either because if there is a problem the solenoid goes back to its "off" position and disengages. if it were electrical you would have NO 4 wheel drive at all. but from not being used the solenoid will stick. you might even be able to just try to engage it and disengage it a bunch of times and see if it works itself out but then you might be stuck without it or with it when you need it or dont need it. and you do not want to drive on dry pavement in 4 wheel drive. you will do damage to your axles. anyway i will try to find out where the solenoid is

that is the second button on the left...

stick a chevy small block in there... with little modifications it WILL fit lol

tahoes use a solenoid to engage and disengage the 4x4. that is usually the problem. i believe they are like 30 or 60 bucks for a new one and are pretty easy to replace your self.

but please if you just have the heads re surfaced have the block checked for warpage. and blocks do warp. i hope no one tries to argue that ... but it also depends on the tools and skills you have to pull a motor. i also did my first one at 16 but i was also in school for it and still am. just take your time and label EVERYTHING! and take lots of pictures because they will help to go back to when you forget where that doo dad went

ok if you look in the manual its button #21 or 22 i forgot but yea just look at the manual. and no problem... google is a mans best friend, next to his dog and pussy

second button on the left.... here is the manual if you dont have it http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/In-Dash/DVD-Receivers/AVH-P6600DVD?tab=D

lol you uys are funny, its not at all an amatures job to pull a motor and replace it... also tell your parents that if you replace the engine with the same brand/type they will have the same problems. and if they are so worried about knowing what the car has been through..... you are about to spend almost 2k on another old USED motor that you have know idea what its been through... and on top of that.. your 18.. get a job!! lol