hdorre

Thats why I got it Thanks for the links

Thats good to hear! I cant wait for my VM to arrive. Its like a week away

I know Im young and all.. but youre making me feel like an infant lol

Youre welcome

Or this?

Was it this?

You said that you unstrapped amps.. so did you only wire one amp? You should try wiring up ONLY the other amp and see if the problem persists. If it does, then theres your problem.

Email- [email protected] The phone # on wccaraudio is 1-916-877-4513 there is no need to list the other number. Please do not do this again

Either email or call him..

Construct the enclosure before you buy the subs

I prefer to have the wire plugged to the amp and here's why: I can detect any problems before its too late. Examples.. -If the fuses from my front to back battery are blown, Ill detect the problem before I potenetially kill a bettery, two amps, and sound processor. -If the fuse is blown going to the amp, Ill save the amp. -I want to know what voltage the amp is seeing.

For the past few months, they've been posting pics of their subs on Facebook too.

Ive always been told that you fuse based on wire size. I suppose that doesnt really matter in this situation. Youre using 1/0, right? A 200 amp fuse will be fine.

^^Thats the best one yet... hands down

True, but I guess theres a reason why... It looks good I wouldnt JUST do black tho.. Thats too plain for my tastes. Id personally do black and red.

Mmm.. I love me some 5th gen 'Ludes. I would do black or chrome rims. Anything but gold.. but thats me

I want to measure the voltage that the amp sees. Also, if I see the voltage the amp sees.. I can detect issues before they become expensive.

I was hoping someone like you would reply. Im getting the TORK2, so I should be okay

The remote bass knob that comes with the amp is a bass boost knob. The LC-1 is a remote gain knob. The included knob may introduce distortion, or even clipping. The knob has what, between a 0-18dB boost at 45hz? I wouldn't personally use that. LC-1 > RF bass boost

I dont want to take that risk. Edit: yes, he does have that VM and runs a switch.

Im looking at a voltage meter, but it doesnt have a remote turn-on sensor wire. More specifically, Im looking into this http://www.sureelectronics.net/goods.php?id=1055 The volt meter only has a positive and negative input, and I want the meter to switch on and off with my HU. Ive been looking up relay wiring and think I found a solution. I just want either a confirmation or for someone to correct it. If you dont know, then dont post 30 = To 12v input of amp 85 = To negative battery post 86 = To remote turn on 87 = To voltage meter 87a = Not used From my understanding, when pin 86 gets power, pin 30 and 87 get connected.

While I havent heard Zs, Ive heard SAs and Nightshades (v2s I think). They were EXTREMEMLY musical. Dont get me wrong, they were still very loud.. and the TL proved that. In fact, I was so happy with them that Im going with a pair of their younger cousins.. the SA8v.2s However, it seems like you made up your mind.

Thanks!

PM'd. This is mine!!

First thing I would do is clamp your current alt. Does it output at least its rating? I have heard a TON of stories...