bassl0va

Make sure you have enough volume in that box first off, I can't be bothered working it out exactly at the moment, but it seems a bit small for a ported 10". I got like .6 of a cube, too small if you want it ported, and pushing it for sealed too. For the port, it depends on where you are putting the box, if it is going in a trunk, go for #2, if it is going behind the seats in a pickup, go for #1.

Lol, it's hard to link people while on a ipod. If you want a house amp instead of a car amp, go for either a plate amp (the ones that go in the back of the subwoofer box) or some kind of pro audio amp, like Crown.

No links because there is a thing called google . We were talking about PSUs because you mentioned a car amp and asked how you'd run one inside.

Check out thermaltake for PSU's as well, they make some damn good ones. I have the 450watt toughpower model (it only have 2 12v rails and can supply ~30A per channel), it definitely runs really well with the Atomic amp, bridged to do 350watts, never dips below 11.6v

Are you saying that the impedance changes at various stages through the cycle when playing a single note? Like if you play 20hz and the amp is wired at 0.5 ohms (lets say that the box is tuned low enough that the sub doesn't bottom out at full power with no subsonic filter) when the cone is moving it may go up to 2 ohms but when it reaches the peak of the cycle the ohm load drops down to 0.5? Is that what you mean? That would screw up the waveform wouldn't it o_O ?

Yeah, 4.5 is way too small for a BTL 18. Go for 8, infact, it may possibly work in the 10 cube one you have now?

^makes sense, but no matter what shape the port is, edges are always going to make it more prone to noise.

^yeah. Just because it is round doesn't mean it is less prone to port noise. So if it isn't flared it stays at 12-16"s.

You'll be louder with the XLs and twice the power.

If they do make them, which I think they do, you will have to get a recone, you can't just replace the surround, it has to be the whole cone/coil/spiders/surround assembly.

I call BS that you can't fit 2 ported 10"s in that car, judging by the pics on google anyway. It would be louder, play lower and you wouldn't need to spend money on unnecessary equipment. You don't need to go for 1.5 cubes anyway, you could get away with 1.2 each.

What I meant was that you should re-set the gains with the HU at flat, not just try it. But yeah,that and get a battery.

There is no point in all this safety stuff, as toady said, ifyou weld your trunk shut, they will just cut it open. Same goes for most security stuff. Just lock your car in a garage and install and alarm in your car.

Measure the output of the amp at full (if it doesn't cut out first) and see what it is doing. There would have to be some strange shit going on for it to be giving out full output (or maybe clipping) with the gain right down. I'm pretty sure you should check if the amp is faulty before buying electrical upgrades. EDIT: just saw that you said the woofer setting is right up on the HU, turn off all EQ and loud settings on the HU and re-set the gains. Then see if it is still doing it.

How would you test it then?

Yep, I can do a box design, just PM me and we can get started on the details . And yep, you can port through there, infact, that's a really good idea. And about the voltage drop, I'm running 3KW off a stock 110A alt and a pretty decent battery (big 3 done ofcourse) and I don't drop into the 10s, so to make it that low with 300W is pretty strange.

If they can't take it off, you'll find a crowbar sticking out of your amp.

AudioWrap, Twistedchild tested it out and can't find a difference between it and Damplifier.

The box will affect the ohm load of the sub that the amp sees. I can't see how just a box can do that though, you sure you didn't change anything else?

Do the speakers you bought work on another amp?

I loled at these Thanks to my box design . OP I say you tell us your budget

$100 each sounds like a bit much. Haggle the price as low as you can.

the more cone area the better. A 15" lvl 5 would be king, that would definitely shake the car apart.

haha, fish and chips . Yeah, a lvl 5 would love one of those amps. But I'd probably go for 2 of the XL 10"s (same amp) just because of double the cone area. The 10" lvl 5 has a holy-crap-that's-a-big-sub factor though, even though the XLs magnet is only about 1" smaller. I'd go for the 2 XL's for loudness though.