bassl0va

The DD components are pretty nice and they would take 100 watts fine (make sure you have the HPF on though)

It could be a combination. You need a sub with a flat response (or known response I think, but flat would be better) then put it in the car and play a sweep. Then you can work out your cars response.

I'm suprised it got this far before someone said this. Only thing is that 'bass knob' can also include the ones that boost at around 45hz, not just the gain cut ones. In the case of the bass boost knobs you just set the gains at the boost center frequency with the knob at max, so as long as you know how to set gains properly and know what type of knob you have (lol, that's what she said) it doesn't matter.

What are you running? Are you sure you need a alt? You may be fine with a good battery.

Nope, just check out google or a library for manuals, you should be able to find one pretty easy.

Depends on the car, some are put together like freaking chinese puzzles. But because it is a bumper it should be pretty easy, have a look for a repair manual for your car, it will probably show you where to find the few bolts that hold it on are.

So the bumper is rattling against the side of the trunk? Some weather stripping or something like that might help, you'd have to take off the bumper though and put it where the panels meet but align it so it doesn't poke out the sides.

I think he was meaning a cylindrical enclosure instead of a sphere. Great idea though, it makes me want to try it.

That would waste probably 1/3 of the space in the well. But if they don't need the full volume then it would work.

hehe :cheers: you could probably find someone on this site that will fix it for you for cheaper than a shop. If you could even find a shop that fixes amps.

You can do a center port with anything, it just depends on how you design the box, the shorter the port the better for center ports if yu want the enclosure to be a single chamber, once it gets the ports width from the back of the box you have to make it two seperate chambers with a divider down the center of the port.

Do you have a DMM? If you don't you can buy them for about $10 for a cheap one which will do the job. Then find the right voltage for the wattage and ohm load that you are using (there is a chart somewhere, if you tell me the ohm load I can tell you the voltage) and put the dmm probes across the sub and play a 50hz test tone and turn the gain up until you get the correct voltage.

Anything made by Fluke (mostly expensive but that's the only way to get proper quality)

Yep. Like DC or Fi or something.

90% install. They aren't actually too bad, but you might as well just get something better for the money.

Cool. Then I agree with when that other guy said about doing 4 of them ported. You'd want about 6 cubes after displacement, can you get that?

Just asking, the subs are all the same I hope? Not different models/brands?

What do you mean? With half the subs it is going to be quieter unless you add power.

should do, unless the faulty MOSFETs took other parts with them when they went down.

Don't some amps kinda screech when they go into protect? The magic smoke didn't escape did it?

I vote for this idea

6th word. Hyundai

What kind of noise? It is probably a ground loop or some other grounding issue. Boon had a ground loop where you would turn on the car/stereo and get like 30 seconds of wub wub wub wub wub from the subs.

I'm guessing that the speaker outputs are at rail voltage, how that happened and what is causing it? Don't ask me, I don't have a clue. But that's what would make the sub do that.

How big is your stock alt? Like 110A? I say you won't need a new alt for 2.5KW. Too many people on this site saw Steve put in a whole load of alts (he does actually need them with 30KW) so they go and do big electrical upgrades where they aren't needed.