bassl0va

Quite... I have been thinking about this allot, but have never asked. I was thinking it would make it more impractical and cause issues with linearity, but I want to hear what the pros say

I fit has to be off that list, I'd go for the RE, otherwise DC like everyone else says.

signature worthy! It shouldn't be toooo bad, depends, running 8v will kill something, 11v would probably not change much.

x2 Especially with the MDF part, the only thing you are allowed to use 0.5" MDF for is trim panels for boxes. Or if you own a cheap audio company, in which case it makes awesome and cheap 0.5 cube boxes, especially if it's made of chipboard

thats probably you best choice. Sundown maybe?

This or new box pretty much.

You can use the screws to clamp the wood together while the glue dries. No point in taking them out afterwards either.

^ P audio used to make subs like that, from 6.5-15". I was going to get one but they said they no longer sold them Those other ones are quite interesting though, independent research FTW!

Someone already commented on how that power will be fine for two of them, so I complimented your box

Clean power, you will be fine. woops, far beaten to it. Nice box though

OK, I'll try my best at explaining. The magnet on a speaker is magnetized vertically, so that the top is the north (I think) pole, and the bottom is the south. The top plate is attached to the top of the magnet, causing it to act as an extension of the northern pole. And the pole piece, because it is attached to the back plate, will act as an extension of the southern pole. So I assume that removing the pole piece would either cause the speaker to sound like crap, or maybe barely function. The coil question is linked to the pole piece question in someway. In a very good speaker (lets say DD) the coil will have exactly the same amount of coil on either side of the gap. Now, lets say the coil is 2.5"s long, and the gap (the thickness of the top plate, pretty much) is 0.5"s. This means the the speaker can move linearly 1" in each direction, it can do more (maybe even double!) but it won't be as linear. To stay perfectly (or as perfect as we can make a speaker, which is pretty damn shocking) linear, the gap must have its full length, 0.5"in our example, full with coil. Now, take the coil just out of the gap, not only will it sound shocking, the closest to linear it will get is at the bottom of its down stroke. With this placement, our example DD would have to be moving a total of 1" just for the gap to be full at the bottom of the stroke, up this to 2"s of excursion and the bottom 0.5"s will be the only part that is linear. So unless the coil is completely centered (1" either side of the gap with our example DD) it will behave very badly and have very bad sounding and quiet output. If the spider has sagged 0.25" you will probably not ,realistically, notice a difference, but if it is as bad as your first or third examples, it will suck. As for how far is too far. I'm sure you could get some vibration with the coil 12"s away from the gap. The magnets are quite strong, go round to grannies and sit your DD lvl5 on the table and I'm sure she will be asking WTF is happening with the picture on her 20 year old tv (which is 6-10ft away from the table).

Type R. Honestly though, is this the only choice you have?

Definitely the DC, it's a better investment.

Just to correct you here, 3dbs is twice the acoustical energy. 10dbs sounds twice as loud. I would say the hatch would be louder. Sub and port up.

It will squeak, or fart, or various other strange noises. Depending on how bad the leak is depends on how it affects the box, a very small one will have little affect, it will only annoy you, a 2" hole and you got a problem though. IIRC a sealed box is meant to have a very slight leak, not enough to squeak, but enough so that if you make it at sea level and then travel up to Tibet the sub doesn't get forced out (or in if you built it in Tibet then went to sea level) and affect the linearity.

Holy fawk! Dude, I bet your clipping the heck out of it! Set your gains with a o-scope. I'd just recone it and tune the gains properly, or get a more powerful amp (and set the gains on that properly ).

lol, love it

Generally, big subs like this are crap for SPL. BUT, it doesn't take much power to do a hairtrick, and they hit really super low with a good box.

You win a...um...um...cupcake? lol. Nah it's fine, don't be sorry. No problem don't forget about all the other helpful people though and don't forget to post a few videos when it's done

DING DING DING DING DING! We have a winner! I new it . Yeah, I couldn't be bothered with the math, so I just went by the picture, but questioned whether it was to scale or not so I didn't get moaned at . Like I said though 17 per cube is great!

I said if the drawing is too scale, it's too small. The calculations work out fine, I couldn't be bothered doing them so I said it looks too small in the drawing. O/P says it's to scale though so WTF?!? 17 per cube is great though so stick with that box then Heck yeah !

If that drawing is to scale, then the port is too small. But thats only if it's not to scale.

Epic high tuning fail FTW! Hmmmm, how long are they? (lol, thats what she said) you could lengthen then, but I would say remove 1 or 2 depending on how close you can get to the port area limit.

Oh, I don't see whats wrong with it. Seems fine to me. Whats the tuning?

Is there enough port area per cubic foot? should be between 14-16 square "s per cubic foot. Also what subs you putting in there?