Ram1989custom

Not dead, just hard to see what you're mentally thinking through typing. Yea, I just got off work.. After working night shift I don't really catch humer.. Nor read people's mind... A few hours ago maybe Understandable, I do have a hard mind to read.

Am I the only person that laughed at the mental image of Joe Biden shitting on someones yard, calling a meeting in the park across the street to hold a speech screaming out that he watched Bigfoot shit in someones yard, then hop on a unicorn, riding off on a magical gumdrop trail? Guess so.. Damn people are dead inside that early in the morning.

That would be your best bet. Tell us what you find!

This. I had the same problem, I just followed my power wire back to the battery, and found out that my dad didn't crimp the ring terminal good so the wire fell out of it.

They also have the ability to make you disappear at anytime ruin you ENTIRE families credit rating poo on your front lawn and tell the american public it was bigfoot rinding on a unicorn out of the gumdrop trail and get away with it, not likely but possible :rofl: :rofl:

100 watts RMS extra won't be any problem at all for DC. You'll be fine. lol definitely trust Thor, he knows what these subs can and cant do haha.

Pic of what you are talking about exactly. And Duct tape.

I wanna see that commercial. Haha

As far as electrical, I would personally start off with the big 3 upgrade and a rear battery. Mechman sells XS power batteries for good prices. http://www.mechmanhighoutputalternators.com/shop/categories/Batteries%252d-12v-Audio-and-Deep-Cycle/ Then if that still doesn't do it, look into the alternators. But I think a good rear battery and the big 3 upgrade will keep you up there in voltage. Not constant 14.5 at full tilt, lmao, but up there. I think the ZX1500.1 would be fine. Probably the amp I would choose in this situation, haha. If you do a rear battery and the big 3, you should have pretty solid voltage on this amp. Looks like Lbox has you covered on the box, haha. Should sound good, I like Kicker. probably my 3rd favorite brand, behind DC and Digital Designs. If you get a rear battery, you may need more than 20 feet of 1/0 gauge wire, not positive though. An Impala is a lot different in size than my Dodge, lmao.

This thread makes me chuckle. Glad to see some bot hunters in here, some of their posts give me headaches. Can't wait for the update!

Skar's I've been looking into. I've had Audiopipe before, meh. SQ was junk. My old rf bd1500 at 1ohm was cleaner sounding (was only specced for 1500wrms at 2ohms). Either way, the new Audiopipe products are junk and not built like their old stuff. Well in my honest opinion, Nothing beats Rockford amps. My Audiopipe has pretty decent sound quality for the price. The 30001D is a pretty badass amplifier for the price, but its all preference. If I could afford it, I would not even think about Audiopipe. I am looking for a better amp though, after I get my DD 2512 and another battery. I don't trust mine to last more than till halfway through summer. I think the heat is going to kill it.

I love budget builds, because thats how mine started. My truck (1989 Dodge D150) had a radio/cassette and a pair of 21 year old stock components. Bought a pair of Rockford 5x7s and a used alpine deck. My amps were hand me downs and my first sub was 1 12" Walmart Pioneer. I imagine you will start off better, however haha. If you are looking for a cheap but loud substage, I would recommend looking at the Skar VVX 12s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/123519-2-skar-vvx-12s-custom-ported-box-special-35999-shipped/ They have a deal right now for 2 12" subs and a custom dual ported box to your specs for $359.99 shipped. I haven't personally heard these subs, but from the Youtube vids I have seen, they look like some solid equipment, especially for the price. Also, some pretty decent true power amps are the Audiopipe AP series. They have 10001D, 15001D, 18001D, and 30001D. they are pretty close to true power, and the 1000, 1500, 1800, and 3000 watts are RMS value. I have the 15001D in my truck and it looks to be able to do about 1200 to 1300 RMS at 1 ohm. Not to mention I bought mine from Ebay for $150 shipped. Just a couple of products to look at to get started that I find pretty good deals. Feel free to look at other products and compare, you will find something you like.

http://www.audiopipe.com/products/amplifiers/ap/ap-15001d.html This is what I have. $150 on ebay. It is definitely true power. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CAR-MONO-AUDIOPIPE-AP-15001D-CLASS-D-1500-W-AMPLIFIER-CLASS-D-/130595442206?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item1e68184e1e#ht_4203wt_952

Port calculates to 32 hz with those dimensions, is it 12" deep, right?

I like the newspaper at the end haha.

Accessories.

Im just trying to get it done. Yeah, the one that goes to the head unit.

glad I could get help.....

is it the headunit?

The stereo is grounded. When its plugged in, the red wire is the only wire that reads 0.01 volts.

For some reason, my power wire shows no power when it is plugged in to the stereo, but when it isn't plugged in it reads 10.4 volts. Why?

Right now the port is 15" long and the dimensions are 5" by 10.5". What I am going to do is make a new box with the same design but make it a 2.5" port instead of 5". I am also going to make it snake where its length is going to be 25" long. That will tune it to roughly 38 Hz. It will take some space away yes, but it will be a lot louder and it will hit the notes that it needs to hit.

Ok, I think I found out what I am going to do.

Inverting them isn't gonna work because these are behind the seats of my truck, and I realized I am gonna have to start from scratch because I already glassed the inside and its gonna be impossible to get the top of my box off haha.

Ive been trying to figure out a way to build this new one better with the same idea, but I don't know how I am gonna do it. Here is a picture of the inside now. If I built a new box, could I add a vertical piece running next to the chamber wall to extend the port more?