TeamHT

voltage does not equal current. easiest way to think about it, in my opinion, as your alternator as a generator, which in nature it is. and only produce as much current as needed. and if creating max current the current will be used towards the electronics drawing the current. so most of the time you anticipate where the need is going to be...ie: big 3 and power wires for the amp/amps. not to mention A LOT of alternators have internal regulators that keeps the alternator chargin anywhere from 13.8 to 15.5 at all times. some have external regulators that allow you to adjust the voltage the alternator charges at. i think a lot of the myth started when racing alternators were first being used and charging at INSANE volts DC that were frying most stock 4g and 8g wiring. but its been years now and most companies and users have learned from experience.

i know a lot of people are different, but as mad as i would be at the stupidity of her actions, she is your mom. i would do anything for my mum, bar none. maybe im lucky to have the relationship i do with my mum but i could never disrespect or dishonor my parents ever.

neo does an awesome job explaining also. and its already been a thread now. the search button is your friend. just click on this...ill help you

lol. basically impedance rise is associated with the resonance of the enclosure. simply put...the DC resistance is the measurement while the coil is inactive. once the cone starts moving, the magnetic field associated with the motor and the moving coil increase the resistance of the voicecoil. generally, the more resonant the enclosure the higher the impedance rise. just keep this in mind. impedance = AC opposition to current flow resistance = DC opposition to current flow impedance rise has everything to do with the box. basically the box controls the motion of a coil through a magnetic field

Audio master king? Lol..with a name like that bro you should be answering questions, not asking them. But $25 for any decent speaker is a choice deal. A great deal.

i think you and the OP might need to do a little bit more research. first things first, i believe the tacomas came with a 70 amp alternator. even if you wanted to magically assume he was able to actually pull 100% from the alternator, 70 amps is really not that much and no wonder why his voltage would drop. the AQ3500 is an awesome amp, i have loved it, and plan on using it in the next build, but if your truck can not even supply the current draw for a T1000 do you really think youre ready to use that much of a larger amp? big amps arent as everyone likes to think they are.

whats your budget? FI is an awesome brand, and love the Q. SSD is a great sub for sure. if youre on a budget, take a look at pioneer championships. its also been suggested to look at auidioque. some great subs there, the street series is a cheap awesome sub that can perform nicely.

lol, damn that was pretty good. it was just weird....ive had multiple setups. four 12s, four 18s, three 15s, all have been powered over 9000rms watts and yet....no huge damage from playing decafs music..... maybe the speedometer was already in bad condition before the bass, lol.

flex isnt really an accurate marker for your system and in my opinion.....fucking ghetto and retarded. look how bad my trunk rattles? look how my door moves? look how the windshield shakes? tsk tsk. different kind of vehicles will obviously be put together different so some cars will be easier to flex than others. still...i think its a pointless thing to try and accomplish. youre better off trying to find something that is actually going to sound nice.

Lol, ill say it one last time. Championships all the way. They will outperform your other budget options and sound great doing it. The thing you have to try to understand is that you're trying to get loud and low on a cheap budget...can't have both, lol. Get the hifis....or the championships....its your car. Everyone's kind of given you their opinions.

And some information you forgot, box specs?

I did not like the fubars when i installed them on another persons budget build. Those championships though will take that 350 so easily. I built a nice setup for a customer running about 1100 watts rms daily. The best budget sub ever in my opinion. Of get the hifis before the fubars

You get what you pay for. For budget subs I live the championships. And they sound great while getting down

Pioneer championships hands down!

yes, some of them. last time i did that must have been a couple months ago. buddy came back from iraq so we decided to take a good trip. we rode our bikes out to this nice mountain, hiked up, got to the top, grabbed our stoggies and sipped on some cognac and brought out the ukelele and just jammed. no words, just an appreciation for how good life is. kudos on your good night. and LOL at the gif from wonderbread, lol

If its possible to change why not two 15s?

If it was the first time how would you know how loud it should have been? Let alone knowing 75%, lol. What kind of subs, amp, electrical, ohm loads, settings, grounds as mentioned above...

1 Just saying

shes young? im going to assume theyre both still young. what would i have done....um....no offense intended but the last thing i would have done would have been to post something like this on here. then if she was really acting retarded upset because i was talking to someone other than her then its time to kick rocks and talk to me when you can be a big girl.

You found brand new RF t4000s for about $700? Then count yourself lucky bro. I have 5, use 3 and did not get any of them at that price. Cheaper than online dealers but definitely not that cheap.

http://m.ebay.com/Pages/ViewItem.aspx?aid=290470706614&emvAD=480x320&sv=rockford%20fosgate%20amp&emvcc=0 This was the mobile page but take a look

Me either but people place their own price tag. I think its a choice price

Pm me with how much you're willing to spend

Damn. Let me see what I can scrounge up.

Someone had an awesome t4000 in the for sale section