UnderLoK

When is it?

Should have told me we would have come up Just needed some motivation

Pretty close, it works well; just need to get a MLA and put the other alt in (14.4+ all day) then I'm done. As you can see I never did finish the amp rack, but I don't think it's staying as it sits now anyways so there is no point really. I texted Brad but didn't hear back. Almost went again yesterday, but it didn't work out.

Was jumpin there Friday (300 cars maybe?). Gotz1lung was in town and BigPimpin showed up as well. Maybe someone will chime in, but I forget the guys name who took this. My truck - that's Aaron's truck knockin down the Master P, we busted out some old school on the kids (Cube, P, Luda, Mystikal, etc) Gotz1lung's truck (it's wild how loud Aaron's truck gets on 1400-1500 watts)

It's not. It's around 35 and if he used bracing it's even higher. Check it yourself, use the calc.

Looking good man! Deleted my post on your video, figured it might as well be here (youtube conversations suck) When you say you're still having voltage problems, how bad (or is the charging voltage just low)? Even with a 320a alt you will still have voltage drop. That amp full tilt can yank 380a plus the car on top of that (for something like 380a-430a max'ish) so there really is no getting around it. If it drops without it even going full tilt then it might be something else. Either which way your batts with that alt should be able to run that thing for days! Nice work, you gonna seal it off? EDIT: for math fail (need more coffee haha)

Fixed it for you

Just save the video in the format you want 1080, 720, etc. in mpg4 and then upload that.

Kinky!

To me it sounds like it's going in and out of protect. Some amps make a weird ass squeal or scratching noise when they go into protect. I've heard it with MMATS and DAT. In both instances the amps were hosed (one had fried fets and no idea what was wrong with the other one). EDIT: balls more posts by the time I hit send

It's possible, the belt could have been too small too or just a defective pulley.

Captain obvious to the rescue! I didn't even see him mention power steering...

With newer GM's that is exactly what the warning is (service charging system).

I would assume it's the battery or the alternator. Start the car with a volt meter on the battery and look to make sure you see a rise in voltage (13+ volts). If you don't, turn up your stereo and within a minute or so you should see the voltage rise, if you don't your alt isn't charging. This could be from a dead alt, messed up wiring (loose wire on the alt or in the alt harness), etc. If you do see it charge then take your car to an Auto Zone and have the battery tested. Your stereo shouldn't be completely killing the battery. Could it? Yes... But only if something else is wrong (as others have brought brought up). For now I would stick to the obvious, battery or alternator (that is unless you just put your stereo in a day ago or something).

One AD244 wired up as a DR44 and a straight up AD244 (slave), again 270a's, but no they aren't adjustable, they run off of my ECU.

I swapped 2 300a Iraggi's for 2 270a Mechman as well. Best thing about Mechman is Matthew, he won't leave you hanging if you run into a problem.

Good news man glad it's coming along ok. Diverticulitis is no joke, hopefully your colon won't be an ongoing issue. Good luck man!

I think when they added the subscription thing they lowered the base sig size.

Took these awhile back (forgot to post them up here) when I was sporting my stock alt (still only kickin 1 270a atm). Hoping to get my other alt in this week (been saying that for 2 weeks). Was raining so my buddy was stuck in the back seat. This guy has heard it before so he was ready... My roof barely moves now since it has wood and 6+ layers of SecondSkin on it Roof reference (this was on 2 alts though but still)... Those scratches on the roof piss me off, some lady blocked me in while I was going under a security gate and it closed on my roof

If you need it (voltage drop) yes.

If you plan on going bigger down the road sure, but with 800 watts it's overkill. Get your sub(s) in, see how it reacts, then decide... As far as the big 3 goes that really just depends on the stock wiring. If it has less than 8g wiring I would add 4g grounds (alt to frame, frame to battery), but the wire to the alt doesn't much matter because the amperage is so low and over such a short distance. Hell you can put 80a through 12g up to a couple feet. Again, try it first then worry about it. My one car has a 73a alt (used to have a 190a but it died of old age and selection was limited), yellow top, 4g big 3, and doesn't dim with around 1500 watts but that's because the only thing in that car that needs juice is the motor and headlights (it's a 61' Deville) I usually listen to metal in that car too which helps On a side note, just one word about batteries and alternators. No matter what you do in your car you will be running on battery simply because the alts are so small. A bigger alt will lessen the load on the batteries and help charge them faster, but the bigger you go the hotter they get and the less abuse they can take. When you're drawing more than an alt can provide on a regular basis bigger isn't always better because they get hotter for longer and can't take it. Look at the batteries aH rating (amp hour), understand that is how much the battery can provide over an hour, and plan accordingly (just don't try and put a marine deep cell in your trunk, they don't like fast charge discharge and will poison your ass with acid gas).

Sorry to take this OT, but my 99 SVT Contour was hands down my favorite car ever.

More than likely the same way people think using a DMM stops clipping...

It's pathetic that in the past I had to drive around with two socket wrenches (one for the tensioner and one for bolts), two 15mm sockets, a belt, and my stock alt when I would go anywhere because my alts did nothing but fail. Out of the three times they died twice I had enough juice to make it home, but once I didn't. I had to do a roadside change because I didn't have enough power left to make it home (I was over an hour away). I had to swap it out when I got down in the 11's which came out of nowhere (I'm lucky the truck even started)... Luckily I had gloves or I would have been waiting 16 hours for it to cool down enough to swap it out or worse yet I didn't have a spare with me in which case I would have had to spend hundreds on a tow or wait hours for the wife to show up with tools, alt, belt, etc. What absolutely floors me is that some of these companies do not treat HO alternators as a key part of the vehicle... They create a key component of a vehicle to standards that wouldn't fly at a fluffy steering wheel cover company.

I wasn't sure how it would react and you guys cleared that up. The whole point of asking was to improve my existing rear fusing which looks like this... I'll just have to come up with some more room it looks like or hope that 600a of fusing would pop before the wire goes up. The only area I'm worried about is where it comes into the truck (inside that is) and if it went up there it's only a foot to the rear bus so in that small of a run (rated at 375a at 20ft I believe) the wire could handle 600a without burning up I would think (famous last words).