UnderLoK

As others have said, yes. You're better off with a slight discoloration from where the badges were than burning through the clear coat and winding up with a monster discoloration a year down the road (unless it gets stolen ) that has to be re-shot. Rubbing doesn't always mean you will wind up with a discoloration down the road, but it does dramatically raise the odds ESPECIALLY if you haven't done it before. Get some good wax and give it a go, just try to resist the urge to be super anal about it. Go with the 5ft rule (good from 5ft away is good enough). Over time it will even out. -2 cents

It's more than likely due to the size of your pulley. Measure the crank pulley and then divide the size of the alt pulley into the crank pulley. Say your crank is 5" and your alt pulley is 2.5". This is a 2 to 1 (5/2.5=2) ratio or for every revolution your crank makes (every RPM) your alt makes 2 revolutions and since you don't want your alt going over 20k RPM (at red line) you then take your max RPM (let's say 5000) and multiply it by the alt to crank ratio. In this case it would be 10,000 RPM at the alt meaning that your alt pulley could be as small as half the size used in this example. AGAIN, this is only an example, these numbers are pulled out of thin air and are not representative of your specific engine. The short of it is measure your crank, measure your alt pulley, and write down your idle and max RPM. Those all play a part in the correct pulley sizing for your alt.

I know who Brad is foo

The Telegraph cruise is this weekend. I'll have my Caddy down there (dark red 61 Deville), but I forget where I will be be... I will be at my buddy's shop some though for sure (J&J Collision in Dearborn Heights on T-Graph near Hass).

Telegraph cruise is this weekend so the Caddy gets some face time

There has to be people in Australia that make HO alternators... Start looking for people who rebuild them and then inquire about HO alternators through them. If a given company doesn't make them odds are they would know who does. x2 Best advice I can give on that idea is to stay away until he has things sorted out.

Just stay away from the low end Alpines (105 etc) as their iPod controls are a train wreck.

9/10 it's close to the same price to replace the deck if it's a cheaper one. Some of the faceplates are ridiculously expensive. As far as pricing goes either contact who you got it from (obviously if it was new) or contact a local dealer and give them a hard luck story (remember dealers get it for less).

Not from me, I didn't carry my camera around.

Oh yea the bottom ones were inverted? and fixed

I was just looking at that... Too bad my amps aren't sorted out yet otherwise I would have some extra scratch

As others have said you more than likely won't notice any difference. If you don't OC this chip it might even be slower unless you are running everything sans CPU at stock speeds. The only way you would notice a difference would be if you ran a benchmark, rendered, or gamed (which you would prolly get a few extra frames). If you want to rush and break stuff sure. Open the case, move wire out the way, remove the HSF & clean it (both the old grease and the dust bunnies), pop out the chip, open the new box, fight with the plastic, grease up the new CPU, pop it in, slap on the HSF, power on, and verify bios changes which is another reboot. That doesn't even include time to re-OC assuming he plans on it.

This is from the show we were at yesterday down in Columbus, note that this can is 75% full... That damn thing gave me a headache all the way to the D (3.5 hours sleep didn't help much either). NOTE: That isn't Derrick's Teg doing it, it's the Scion that is behind it (6 15's on some SD 3500's).

I find it ironic that you're from a TC... Take a 4 hour drive, there are tons of them around here; This area is still overflowing with 80's junk.

If you do go with 4g (nothing wrong with that as said above it's enough you just can't upgrade with it) just remember that some brands of 4g are only rated at 100a.

If there is any chance you will want to upgrade in the future go with 1/0 and be done with it. Measure from the front batt to where you want to mount the amp, measure from the alternator to the battery (make sure to check the size of the post on the alternator and plan accordingly if the rings hole will be too big), and add 5ft for incidentals and or accidents. Take that number and order 1/0 in the color of your choice along with 5 ring terminals to match. I say 5 and not 3 (you only need 3) because accidents happen. Measure from the front batt to the frame and the frame to the alternator bracket and from where the amp will sit to the rear grounding point. Order that much plus a couple feet for accidents. You will also need 6 ring terminals to match. Again plan for mistakes. Are you using a factory HU? If so you also need an RCA converter (it takes speaker wire from a stock speaker and turns it into a source for RCA) and a bass knob (you don't HAVE to have one, but it's a wise move). You also need enough RCA to go from the knob to the rear amp or if you skip that enough rca to go from the converter to the rear amp. You also need to measure from where your remote will originate (under the dash normally) to where the rear amp is going to go and get some blue 12-16g (size doesn't matter just anything you can find in that range cheap) wire that length. Are you building a box? If so you will need speaker wire as well. You want enough to be able to remove the sub from the box without pulling on the wires. Assume 2ft per coil and then from the box to the amp. As a general rule just over estimate everything when it comes to wire you can cut (power/speaker). It's better to have a little extra than to realize you completely screwed up and have to spend 2-3x more locally. You will also need some bolts for those grounds unless you are able to find existing ones to use. DO NOT use sheet metal screws, DO NOT half ass it no matter how tempting List: 1/0 Power wire 1/0 Ground wire 1/0 Inline fuse under the hood (fuse should be just over the amps MAX draw which you can find in the docs) 12-16g blue remote wire 12g speaker wire RCA

Welcome! That story sounds too familiar to be a coincidence, you're over in the Dale aren't you? Good luck on your new setup man! My buddy has had 4 cars stolen over there (the same one 3 of the 4 times). He had to get a complete beater years ago in order to keep them from ganking it.

It's just a term meaning for something other than a server. Laptop, tower, HPC, etc.

I assume you mean for the desktop? 7, then OSX, then Linux (RH, then Debian).

...and get off my lawn! How about dyke's?

Call and see if they have any "B Stock" left.

Sticky keys possibly... What I mean by that is often times you can accidentally activate the sticky keys feature which will lock the alt key on. I could be wrong on this as 7 doesn't have that feature anymore so I can't double check it, but ALT+SPACE opens that menu. If it happens again hold down ALT (10+ seconds) and see if a menu comes up with options.

All the wiring for the amps and the BBE was in that box... I don't remember why I put them up there instead of on the floor, but I think it was because the trunk was only 13" tall or something like that.

Original something... Forget the name, but it was Natas or Esham... If you like it here are some other old ones: Esham Would you die for me My 9 rhymes Wish you was down Get on down Red rum Nine dead bodies Natas Game of death Hell yea lol Those JL's had just replaced two 12 MnM Godfathers that I blew.

This video was shot in 95 by my buddy back in the day. If I remember right it was a P200, P40, BBE, Clarion HU, Kenwood EQ, and W1's or W3's I forget which... Esham FTW! If you're wondering I was either 18 or 19 at the time.