Autruche

Did you start a new track and place the new tone in it? that should solve the problem.

Most people will agree that you can use the volume to port is the way to go, 12-16 inches per cube for slot, not sure on round or aero. Xmax calculations can be tedious and don't always come out right. For instance, if you want 2 subs in a 6 cube net box, you might want upwards of 100 inches of port, but an xmax calculation might say you need 150 inches of port

Best program I've ever used for format changing is format factory, try it out, it's free.

Lol, thanks. The only problem is that you need to get good quality solder, the cheap crap doesn't work well with these terminals.

Lulz were had indeed.

A guy on here that goes by the name Owners1 has 8 pairs in his Hummer, he'd probably be the one to talk to, but I have heard great things about them for their price range.

Honestly, if I were on a budget, I'd get some Crescendo components. I like my O2 Audios, they're pretty nice for the price.

Hmm, an 8" version of a sub that's excursion pretty much requires an 8" spider Something tells me it might not work. And as if the level 5 10" wasn't difficult enough to make because of the motor size. Would be funny though.

This is what I do for terminals, and it saves me a lot of money on them. I start with a standard closed end terminal. Then I drill a hole in the top. There you go, you can no solder it like an open ended one. Considering the price difference, I'm willing to do the extra work.

Damn you... You have more mids than me Awesome build by the way. How do you like that Crescendo 1000C4? I'm thinking of selling my Hifonics and getting one.

I get them here. They're the slug kind, but if you drill a hole in the top of the lug, you can solder it like you normally would. Just make sure you use good solder with them, my friend tried to use cheap solder and it turned out like crap with those.

okay, so you have a pallet of MDF, a panel saw, and now a lift? I hate you, in a good way.

What coils do you have though? If it's a D2 I'd get the 3500. If it's a D1 then I'd do the two Rockfords.

Do you still have it at all or not? It gets stuck in my damn head whenever I hear the song normally.

That sucks, thanks anyway though. Anyone else got one? C'mon, I know someone has to have a 90-91 civic or CRX with 5 minutes to spare.

That would be awesome man, I'd really appreciate it.

I see, I take it you will run them on their own amp so you can turn them on and off? Maybe you could make some kind of wood cover you can put over them when you aren't showing them off, that should stop damage from the airflow.

Just ditch the rears and work on your front staging. It may sound dumb, but you can get in the front of my car and not even notice there are no back speakers, they fill the car like surround sound. Or maybe just put them in the back doors instead of the hatch area.

Bump. Need these dimensions, no CRXs around here, even in the junk yard.

classical, jazz, blues, soft rock, rap, and death metal.

I'm not looking to find anything fancy, I just want to get some decent looking headlights on the front of my car. some aftermarket CRX ones that I found were simple and not gaudy looking. The lens on my stock headlights is really thick glass and it distorts the colors of my HIDs, the ones I found have nice thin clear glass (or plastic) to them and I think they'd look nice on my car. They have projectors, but I know they aren't true projectors, but it doesn't really bother me, I'm not that big on projectors, I just think they'd look better than my stock ones.

I am thinking about retrofitting some headlights for a 90-91 CRX into my Saab. They are the same general shape, but I need to know the dimensions to know if they will fit before I drop over 100 bucks on a pair. I made a pic of what I need measured, if anyone can help me that would be awesome. A Width of top of the headlight B Width of bottom of the headlight C Height of the headlight D Height of the side marker E Width of top of side marker F Width of bottom of the side marker Edit: For the side marker it needs to be a 90-91, it can't be an 88-89, as the side markers are a little different. Measurements for an 88-89 headlight without the side markers would still be appreciated.

Yes, he is right. T/S data is important but for the most part it is completely useless. It will let you know what general stuff is good, but it's hard to get accurate readings at higher levels of testing. Only way to see what's better is to buy them both and build the recommended box for each one and give it some power, then return the one you don't want. Besides the leftover useless box that you get stuck with (unless they both need the same exact box) it would be the way to go if you can pick them up in a shop and try them, otherwise shipping and handling sucks dick. Show me your war face! AHHHH, that's a war face! It's pretty creepy looking, it makes me stare at it.

Nice amp. I think the AP 3000 is ugly, but the 1500 is surprisingly nice looking. Personally, being that the 3000 is just 2 1500s internally strapped, I'd rather spend the extra $30 to have two 1500s, in my opinion they look better. My friend picked one of those up and they push a pretty good amount of power.

Sealed boxes aren't really tuned, just ported ones. The best way to find out is to measure the outside dimensions of the box and all the dimensions of the port and punch them into the torres box calculator, which you can download from the thread that is stickied in the subs/boxes section. Don't forget to factor in your woofer and bracing displacements too. it may be confusing at first, but you'll get the hang of it right away.