dereileak

Thanks bro! So upgrade the battery then possibly alternator? hells yea, also did you grind the paint off for that frame ground?

I love the look, but the rotary engine takes a lot more work

making me nervous for when I get my mazda3, was gonna order an alt from mechman, but hmmm

what do you guys think about the mazda rx8 2004ish? it has a rotary engine which can be good and bad, seems if you dont know how to take care of it then they go to shit, but can last if you do, so idk, found some nice ones in my price range!

could get a kicker 850.4 that would be 214 watts a channel, plus you will get a bit more cause they underrate there amps, then you can put up to 2 4ohm speakers on each channel to get the power, so probably channel 1: one speaker (100 watts @ 4 ohms) channel 2: one speaker (100 watts @ 4 ohms) channel 3: two speakers (200 watts @ 2 ohms, 100 per speaker) channel 4: two speakers (200 watts @ 2 ohms, 100 per speaker) Those are all in rms terms too. Really any amp that will do 200 watts per channel @ 2 ohms will do what you want

wow, that would be awesome!!! If some one wants to donate one that would make my day ha ha

I sent in an offer to the one I linked, for 8,250, knowing he will counteroffer. The only thing is I need the loan and to sell my car still, how is the room for subs in the hatch trunk?

yea, insurance is going to be more then the damn car loan, insurance is highway robbery, its fucking rediculous

I love the one he is reviewing, but 10,000 is my budget really, after the loan plus insurance which is between 170-280 I will be still safe, but dont wanna push it too far, plus I have to budget in a mechman alt and a double din ($550 + $450)

no input?

cant you take the cover off the amp and just grab it with your fingers, most amps have covers

To New Car I found, the PROTEGE5! Alright, im getting rid of the dodge grand caravan, works great, but I want something sport and better on gas, I am looking at Mazda3 s 2005+ish hatchbacks, I found a few and want to know what you think about them price wise, and any other comments. I for sure want a manual!! And the Mazda3 will let me do a double din. If you know of a vehicle simular and within my $10,000 ish price range let me know too. I live in Rochester, MN, but I don't mind driving 200ish miles. I would love blue, but hey red will do too. What do you guys think of this, I think it could go for less considering the miles, I just saw one sell for 9.8k with 61k miles, so this one is pushing it, what do you think I could talk them down too? Mazda3 Link Here that should be plenty of room for 2 15's, in the future for 2 18's. I already contacted mechman, they have a unit that can do 270 amps for it, and it fits a double din!!! Post Comments, I just want some feedback on it!

you can get 300 amp fuses for 1.50 - 2 dollars a piece, plus they rarely blow, if your blowing fuses you really should have another run of wire anyways

That's a good diagram! And yes, it is a must to fuse as close as you can to each battery. If you don't your gonna have a nice car-b-que when something shorts out. Edit- and each fuse should be rated for what the wire can handle. If it can handle 300A for example, then use a 300A at the front batt, a 300A at the rear, and a 300A between the rear batt and amp (assuming your using the same wire for your amp.) And always fuse as close to the battery's as you can. yea also for the amp fuse, you can lower the fuse rating to what the amp is supposed to be fused for that way really your protecting the amp and the wiring, the rest you just fuse to the wiring, should say that in there Edit: Also to the guy who needs help who started this, dont use isolators they cause lots of issues, drop your voltages, and are a waste of money, the only reason you would want them is for reasons other then car audio

they did that to my xs power d3100, I watched them go to the wrong house and drop it on the cement from about 3-4 feet, echoing the sound of it all around, when I got it it had demolished all the Styrofoam to an unrecognizable state, luckily the battery only had a few scuffs and scratches so I kept it, but for the most part Fuck UPS!

little trick for mine, the metal jacket around the rcas that grounds them, take a pliers and squeeze them together a little bit so when you plug in your rcas they push more into the contacts, do it for all of them, they should take a bit of force to slide into the amps rca ports, and the decks rca ports, that not touching well will introduce lots and lots of noise!! worth a try, just dont damage your rcas

Follow my guide son Second Battery Wiring Guide

that's about right, in my caravan, I had to put it up on jacks, run my arm up the exhaust manifold, following the Cadillac converter, basically going about 3 feet up into the engine, then to unscrew it without seeing it, so I had the engine running to build heat up so that it would come out, man was that an interesting experience, I will say, order the socket end that you use to take out o2 sensors, it was worth the 10 dollars it cost easily!!!!!!! not fun trying to use a big ass socket set to get something you can't see out, but hey, saved me about $300 in shop fees, I will do it again, if you can see it, then its easy as pie!!! you can get the sensors for about 35 bucks each online, I got ngk/ntk, which was oem brand, mopar contracts with them for chrysler and dodge products, they make good shit! not to be an ass, but it is catalytic, not cadillac. and op on newer cars there is an o2 infront and behind the catalytic converter. anymore the o2 sensors arnt terrible to get at, just mainly rusted in. if you have to use penetrating oil use the deep creep by sea foam. it is amazing I knew I spelt that wrong, ha ha

that wouldnt have the best range, it has no tweeter. You really need to get an amp, you should be able to sent around 80 watts rms to those badboys, just not distorted clipped bass, which is what probably happened, you could try contacting kicker, they might give you a replacement, you would be surprised, say they blew on the factory headunit

that's about right, in my caravan, I had to put it up on jacks, run my arm up the exhaust manifold, following the Cadillac converter, basically going about 3 feet up into the engine, then to unscrew it without seeing it, so I had the engine running to build heat up so that it would come out, man was that an interesting experience, I will say, order the socket end that you use to take out o2 sensors, it was worth the 10 dollars it cost easily!!!!!!! not fun trying to use a big ass socket set to get something you can't see out, but hey, saved me about $300 in shop fees, I will do it again, if you can see it, then its easy as pie!!! you can get the sensors for about 35 bucks each online, I got ngk/ntk, which was oem brand, mopar contracts with them for chrysler and dodge products, they make good shit!

Wow does anyone know its a law in NC? Just checked it is a law but i wanted bright blue lights... I hate some laws.. I may reconsider getting these cuz of that law ive had hids for a few yrs and no one has said anything but they are some fuktards around here that buy there hids off ebay and try to blind teh shit out of everybody they can, i mean my fog lights are twice as bright as my headlights but i only run em on back roads and when it rains and what knot so dunno the law about it in nc, hope it aint illigal, but my lights aint real blue, more like a crystal white to me, if i can see better and not hit someone else durring bad weather n what knot then i say they dont need to be illigal, i mean thats what i got mine for, so i can see better as to not have any accident, and my lights are aimed to the right side of road anyways so oncomeing traffic wont see em much anyways Welll knowing my luck i would get pulled especially considering i dont have my after nine... I have the 55watt 8000k, they are pretty much white I would say, I think I will get 6000k or even 4000k next time cause blue is cool at first, but white makes seeing the best. They are a great set, I had a ballast go bad once, cause oil got all over it and it was loose hitting shit under my hood, I know, I know, got an rma, sent it in, and got the new one. They are lifetime warrantied, and good stuff. ddmtuning.com has the best prices I have seen also, I have sat at stop lights with the cops right on the other side sitting directly in the light, and they didn't do anything, most the time the cops here are on there phones or doing some other shit, ha ha

I will be entering !!! I really want a shirt and hat, love XS POWER!

whats it take to get sponsorship, you need a certain amount of competitions entered? or just a kick ass car?

I would agree, but who would take all this time to make an account to post something stupid like that, ha ha, I guess a real troll, green hairy, and smelly

'Tis a myth. I would say yea, for the most part, cause rcas have shielding, and also because they are twisted, so you really dont have to worry about noise, unless you bought some ghetto wtf rca's, ha ha