dereileak

Love all these products but i could only afford the first one, dd1, now im broke lol

When I get my subs in a few months I may get those added on, damn those are sexy

love all these products, I think if you combined all your products into one you could use that screen and have a few leds on it for the ultimate car audio tool, that does everything, that would be sick

those are sexy, doing the red black Kevlar caps when I do mine

did you leave all the stock electrical? and the belt wrap on this car is really good, I have the same engine layout and the alt is wrapped about 180 degrees at least I believe, and this car has a good tension-er

you can do as thick as you want, just remember, you hit a point where your doing huge thick wiring for speakers that will never get close to those limits, and your runs arnt gonna be that long, so if you go to thick its just extra weight and wasted wire, 16 gauge takes care of most things up to 100-150ish watts, maybe a bit more, and for subs you cant go wrong going thick, with 10 gauge, it will handle more then enough

Should have gone with XS Man, kenetik is inferior to XS

mine are at 2.8k

Nice man, I love mazda's, liked everything you had there, XS POWER!!! WOOT WOOT

looks awesome

thanks man, I got it, had a few more q's

Ok so I have finally decided to get rid of my 2 cvx 15" kickers, and I want to go to 2 DC Level 4 12" Subs, But I have a few questions so ok, so a 2500.1 kicker amp is gonna be powering these at 2845 rms rated, so it matches perfect with the level 4's which do 1400 each. But what do these other options do for me All of the Questions are from this list, which are the options listed in DC's Post: "Other options available are: Carbon Fiber Dustcap Direct Leads Additional medium and stiff spiders 10" wide roll surround 10" reinforced surround Level 5 Upgrade for Level 4 " 1.I want the carbon fiber dust cap, but can I still get a red DC logo on it? 2. What are direct leads 3. Im either doing a 2 cubic foot box sealed for these 2, or a 3 cubic foot ported, not sure yet, I want to keep it small, and those are the suggested sizes on the site, either way what spider stiffness would I want to get for it being I have an amp that does 2800+ and the power system to back it up? 4, what does this do and what is it? 10" wide roll surround 10" reinforced surround 5. and being my amp matches perfect with this subs rms rating, would it be worth it to do a level 5 upgrade? Thanks for the Help, Derek Oh and when I figure everything out im going to ask for a price shipped to 55902

I realize 2 runs would give him more room to work with, but the alt cant even do 300 amps, which true 1/0 gauge wire will take very will with low voltage drop, im doing 5000 watts, around 352 amps when at full power, and I have only 1 1/0 run, now granted my mechman alt does only 220 amp (largest unit for my mazda3) I wouldnt see any reason for me especially to do another run, cause the alt cant keep up, and the d3400 will help up front, but the d3100 in the back should have the balls to take care, just my thought, idk maybe when I get the money ill do another run, hell if you have the money I would do another run, and maybe 1 1/0 neg run, and using the frame to ground

i had a pioneer H/U but got it changed for a kenwood Which Kenwood HU? You need to have your grounds on clean metal and secured very well. Your RCAs are far away from power wires yes? my H/U is getting the ground from this I also took my ground wire and extended it to a new better ground, where my security system grounds and everything, works good there, can help, as factory grounds suck usually, but usually work, also ground the outer casing of the rca's to the headunits casing

on thing I found is if the gain on the amp is set wrong plus any other gear, I have great strong grounds, grounded head unit RCA;s, I have all premium quality very well shielded RCA's, and I still had engine noise, used my dd1, set my 30 band eq, headunit, with doesnt clip even 40/40 at 0db, and the 3 way crossover, 4 amps, and its all gone, all the engine noise, just be causing one level somewhere was too high, probably the line driver in the eq, and the gains were to high, you will see a point if you turn it that engine noise will kick in all of a sudden, so that can be part of it, like said earlier, bad grounds, bad rca's, it can be tough to fight, found its worth the extra time always to do everything at a very high quality through the build, and you will have less problems down the line, im sitting like 10 feet from my screen so im not gonna proof read this, lol, hope it helped

Awesome man, yea it seems alt noise is big if you have the settings wrong, like the gains turned up to much, so glad I got one!!

Yea, I did that before tuning, didnt do anything, also regrouned the head unit, found out it wasnt coming from the headunit, it was mainly the eq and 3 way crossover reacting with each other, weird

remember that i am setting the gains on the amps to match it, but yes, 40 is very loud Yea, I didnt expect that to happen at all

Ok, so let me start out by saying I had really bad engine alternator noise, unbearable unless you cranked the system, on top of that everything sounded good, but I had no way to know for sure where my amps were when blasting (clipping). So I have had my dd1 for like 2-3 months, finally got around to using it, ha ha, I have a Pioneer 3400 DVD Headunit, doesn't clip at all, 40/40 with 0db for both 1k hz and 40hz, awesome player, then I have my kicker 30 band EQ, and the kicker 3 ways crossover. then going to 4 amps, 2 for mids, 1 for subs, 1 for tweets, all doing 650rms for the mid amps, and 2500.1 for the subs, anyways, I had lots of noise, I tried to follow the rules to keeping wires organized, rca's in my car actually go through the ceiling, cause the eq and crossover are on the ceiling, so this keeps noise away, but it all comes together in the end, so I thought I was doomed for that alt noise, nothing I can do So I use the dd1, took 3 hours to get it done, keeping having issues with it not seeing signal, or having a distortion, without detecting a frequency, what I learned is that do the headunit with the rcas from the head unit going into the dd1 directly, but anything past that, put it at the amps, do not measure after each device, as for me anyways, I would have no distortion at the eq, but I would at the 3 way, unless adjusting the eq down, which makes no sense, and doesnt let me set it to more then 1v out put (I can do 4 at the headunit, and 9v at the eq, line driver built int, but I do 4 anyways, so I put the dd1 in my sub amp, turned gain all the way down, and set each device easily like that with not having much of any issues, so what are the results!!! Holy shit, All my alt noise is GONEEE!!!!! ALL OF IT, I was so blown away, I was just sitting there and realized, omg, NO ALT NOISE, so that blew me away, ok so on top of that, I can turn it up to 40/40 with crystal clear extremely loud intense gut satisfying bass craving ear blazing sound, it is awesome!!! I love it, it is so clear, and the best part is that I know nothing is clipping and everything is perfect, on top of that, ha ha, I have 4 more of the 6.5 inch QS Kicker speakers to add in, carbon woven speakers, awesome!! and I have 4 more of the tweeters to add, so its going to be loud and proud, it is such a pleasure knowing all my stuff is working perfect and that there is no clipping, Now the amps used to cut out, and for the most part that is fixed too, the sub amp never does, but if I go to 37 or higher it will sometimes cut the mid amps out only, not the tweets either, so this weird, Idk why it does that, I did use like track 6 or 5 to do the mid amps, like the manual says, which is -10db I think (Going of memory) so for the most part thats fixed, did have a little issue with it tonight, but overall fine!!! THANKS STEVE!!! THANKS D'AMOUR and everyone who did this, it really is worth the price, I can say I would easily buy one again!!! Gonna be honest, at first I didn't really totally believe it would be worth what it is sold for, was kind of disappointed at the announced price, but after seeing how they are made, all the hard work, and what this device does, I would recommend it to every bass head who loves car audio, it is no doubt in my mind that it is worth every penny, now I just need to get mine signed by the man himself ha ha Derek

I thought it was 14.9 witch is why I said that, but there's the answer from the man him self 14.9v at competitions would be ok, but not for daily. Again this is the recommendations from us. Many charge much higher on a regular basis with no problems, but we can not recommend doing that. I get what he is saying

I dont believe so, old computers still work, they have a whole bunch of caps in them

resistance is hard to test cause there are load factors, and other things that effect what is true data

I dont remember the exact model of truck, but when we did remote starts/alarm systems, there were certain trucks that had bad door switches, so the actual door switch was bad, making the car think the door was open, causing the thing to go off a lot more, idk, just maybe

how do you know that when you dont have the specs on them? because they will not respond with what the internal resistance is so none of us know because on there site they say, ultra low resistance

its low, thats all we know, lol