AI James

i missed it in the 8 pages of stuff but, what kinda volume and port area are you working with?

take that total port length of 31 the first part 8.25 is your first cut thats easy to calculate. second part (the bend) 31 minus the 12.5 thats the total length of that side of the box. that will give you the cut of the second board. It always works unless you have a port thats smaller then the length of your side.

and how did your comment have anything to do with the topic at hand?i hadnt heard of the term, so i told him i hadnt heard of the term hoping he would elaborate. I always call it port velocity, its the wrong term but its refering to the same thing. But i wouldnt have known that had it not been elaborated.

new or old model. i have a buddy locally with one for sale

never heard of the term vent mach

thats a drop in the bucket for a decent US made amp

i use carpet scraps i have laying around. then sand off the parts that are left.

if you decide to trade lemme know. I'm looking for one of these or an sp4.

great looking box, definetly like all the flush cuts and roundovers

white looks cheap

interested in any trades?

what are you using for processing?

what sub it is, what size sub? what power? you need more port area right off the bat

that pics step one, the other stuff gets layed on top of the deadener normally, between the door and door panel. some get it inside as well but others dont obviously.

photo fail, and need more information.

sealed with wood btw. and easy to get back into. yes my picture

Not my pics haha, I probably should've made that clear. The deadener is fine, he applied it to the flat surfaces because the curved areas are already resistant to vibrations. You could always shoot for 100% (or near 100%) coverage but it doesn't do you much good. most of those places are a waste of deadener and time. . sealing off the door is where its at, and concentrating behind the driver and around it.

so is wiring but we still ziptie those. why do that if you cant see it also dont use adapters like those plastic crap ones. you need sopmethign rigid that the sound doesnt resonate. also that much deadener on that door is pretty much not doing much of anything lol

prefferably cleaner cuts as well

very interested to see how the 15 turns out overall. I'm personally looking at the sp4 but would look at the smd if this turns out decently.

meh at the bpx2200, had it long ago on my re xxx. great amp but imo not better and i see your still using passive crossovers while using these decent amps?

i mean if you really want you can make a terminal connection to it...then you have resistance at the terminal you just added. just saying, the wire in the big hole with the set screw is the correct way.

cone area always applies. i wouldnt run the 5.25 in that hole. when a 6.5 isnt that hard to fit there.

no idea on the 4 channel yet. its waiting on doors and kicks and stuff to be made and pheonix elite comps to be installed.

Totally agree with what twisted had to say.