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craracer05

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Everything posted by craracer05

  1. craracer05
    Sounds like I"m oredering an hps10 before I finish my build this winter or maybe I'll ask
  2. craracer05
    I said option 3 and didn't even realize it sealed!!!!! I would say no way then and you should go down to two 15"s ported in a 7 ft^3 box
  3. craracer05
    Agree check your subs sounds like you wired one out of phase with the other....
  4. craracer05
    Ya for dual 2 ohm L5's you should be running a kicker zx1000.1 or zx1500.1 at 2 ohm. The amp you have now is a complete joke sell that thing asap!!
  5. craracer05
    I've been considering that velleman for awhile now looks it would be prefect to just set gains on decks and amps, since I wouoldn't use it for anything else.
  6. craracer05
    I like the third option sounds good.
  7. craracer05

    Too many projects so little time!!!!!!!

  8. craracer05
    You just have to wait no choice it sucks big time!!
  9. craracer05
    Looks like some slim ones are in your future then!
  10. craracer05
    I have my own code scanner for this reason so no one can give me a line of shit and two when customers come in and say there light is on I can see if it actually related to any work I've done.
  11. craracer05
    Yes me too.
  12. craracer05
    Ya those speakers in the back deck are rockford punch 3way 6x9s, american bass 6.5" mids, and pyramid super bullet tweeters in the center all wired up to a rockford t10004
  13. craracer05
  14. craracer05
    I was really trying to go for getting the sound into the car well and have really good sound quality. I achieved that but I could use a little more output. That's the main reason i didn't dive into paint or anything incase i wasn't satisfied.
  15. craracer05
    Dam thought for sure I'd get some comments or questions......
  16. craracer05
    Little update finally got my t400.4 back from rockford today, and well they just sent me a new one. So this week hopefully a little tuning and tweaking will be in order.
  17. craracer05
    pics?
  18. craracer05
    I also don't appreciate you criticizing my work when you have never seen any of it I do this stuff everyday and take alot of pride in my work all's I'm saying is that you can't give a battery to Watts chart there are way to variables to take into account.
  19. craracer05
    Still disagree with you statements are way too general most times issues can be traced to a puny 10 gauge ground from chassis to battery there are just too many variables to say hey two batteries will always do this three will always do this also when I say kill I mean the lights are dimming like crazy car is seeing anywhere from 10 to 11.5 volts
  20. craracer05
    I don't agree have done tons of cars were a single t600.6 at 2 ohm or t15001bdcp will kill a car with just one battery. Also just had a car today with a t25001bdcp and t1004 with three batteries and the subs kept cutting out because there wasn't enough power. i would definitely say you total amp rating is the only way to rate your electrical. I mean waht if had three red tops at 50 aH a piece or I had kinetik 2400 that's 120ah by itself????
  21. craracer05
  22. craracer05
  23. craracer05
    Tach wire is yellow/black on the unit you'll want to run it under the hood though a safe location, through the firewall and hook it to the white wire on the distributor. Tach programs differently depending on how old the unit is. The dome light is definitely a factory thing, compustar will only hold lights on 45 seconds if hooked up. If i was you I would take it to an authorized compustar dealer and pay to have everything setup the right way you want.
  24. craracer05
    Guys at DC have answered all my questions super fast I'll be ordering my alternator form them soon!!!
  25. craracer05
    First thing we need to know is if you have a small silver amp between your 6x9s in the trunk check for that and let me know.
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