osamio

If your positive it is the result of the remote wire... Then what i'd do is use your HU remote wire to operate a relay, and have the relay controlling a +12v from your battery. If that makes sense... and using 14-16 gauge wire should be fine. This problem sounds more like a grounding or impedance issue with the amp... Are u sure its shutting off? or is it going into protect? If the output impedance is too low, it's possible the amp is overheating and protecting after some time bumping. It could also be a grounding issue...

But you just posted this ^ correcting my definition of outsourcing?? I said exactly the same thing u did...

So if a NEW company that is head quartered here in the US highers a workforce outside the US, it's not outsourcing?

Outsourcing is diverting jobs to other countries besides the US where people will work for less money. It means using people in other countries who will work for lower than minimum wage to fill job positions at American companies. Its usually manufacturing jobs, or tech support, thats why when u call dell computers for instance....you are connected with a person in india.

I think a good place to start is with the deal MI just struck up with GE. I just heard they are opening their global IT center not far from here and hiring 1200 people. See what incentives they were offered and go from there. I have plenty of idea's, but honestly, they aren't "modest". Coming from Detroit gives me a unique and often unpopular view on things. A "Modest proposal" is a propositional paper trying to solve England's poor problem by feeding their babies to the rich. I am not asking for a "modest" change, that's just the name of the paper that I need to use as a guideline. So bring on your gross ideas! I've gotten a couple good leads from you guys, thanks a lot My bad, I didn't think of it as the proper noun, i thought u were quoting the assignment, like it had to be a modest proposal. I got you. And alright now i got to think of something worse... lol

Class sounds tough man. We have to do more 'proof of concept' type stuff. Never a fully stocked website. Then again it's more of a scripting/back-end class... not so much the pretty side

Did the person who owned the car before u have this problem? cause i absoulutely assumed that this was professionally installed, idk why i made that assumption, but unless the previous owner had this problem, id say the electrical system was already upgraded to work with that many devices. again, you may need a new battery. Take it to autozone and have them test it on a batt tester to see if it's good.

No you are fine with the fuse, It just depends on how much power you are going to be drawing with your amps. Like me personally, I left the factory connection in place.. completely untouched. and added an ADDITIONAL alt charge wire with my own in-line anl fuse. If you are confident in the conductivity/gauge of the stock fusing, then you're fine. but I personally added my own as opposed to replacing stock. In fact i did that with all of the big 3. I added additional runs without touching the stock ones. So did u decide which way to wire your battery? it dosent matter how much his amp is drawing the alternator wont put out more than 115-120 amps if its stock, and ive ran many amps that draw "150" amps on 60 amp fuses (yes for meca) but i beat on them for about 2 hours and they never blew, they got discolored and purple but didnt die I was more talking about the wiring inside the fuse box, that is, from the terminals he attatched to to the actual fuse itself. At least in my car, there is about 3 inches of 8 guage running from the inside of the fuse box out to the bolt where the wire was attatched. So if i had run a 0AWG to that, it would be reduced to 8 before it made it to the fuse anyway.

Could be the battery, If it's old or been abused at all, especially under a load like that, it may not be able to hold its charge anymore. Especially if it's been killed/jumped a lot. The other thing is to find any parasitic loads, which can be a pain, just check all your components....

The fortune, not the cookie, did u even read the post? And there is a limit to how much u can fap... I stop when the blisters tear open..

Dude you have no idea. Girl's on vacation, Amp is out for repairs, friends are on vacation. DAMN

I just got a fortune cookie fortune that says "Read To Live". is that like, read in order to live??? Read what!??! Lol yes i am bored enough that i posted this. still tho, weird fortune...

x2 i edited my post to say that. when he said he had a 150 amp fuse i didn't know he meant the stock fuse, i thought he added a fuse block in that spot. then i realized he meant the factory fusing. So ya, i'd use ur own fuse block..

No no your fine with the fuse. Okkk I didn't know u had a fuse there. I couldn't see it in the pic. I thought u were going to the factory fuse box, like the stock location...and i was thinking the stock fuse/wiring would be much to small for a high current wire. but you've done it perfectly then. So did u decide which way to wire your battery? I read the faq's at kinetik site and they say to wire both + and - from the front batt to the rear batt terminals.... im guessing i can get away with just the + from the front batt to the rear...i dont like the idea of wiring straight from the alt to the rear... it will be 1/0 of course I've seen it all three. If kinetik says run the + to + and - to - then i'd do that. I personally ran a run of 0 gauge to my stock battery from the alt, then to my stinger battery, and two runs of 0 gauge from each battery - to the chassis. Its really the same thing.. they're paralleled either way.

How can it be a radical solution and a MODEST proposal? anyway, I'd say eliminate minimum wage and force people to become desperate for work. Theyll work as cheap as any outsourced laborers and be much easier to train and will probably appeal more to people who use their services... like...me calling dell and not being able to understand the indian guy... no offense of course..its just the truth..

No you are fine with the fuse, It just depends on how much power you are going to be drawing with your amps. Like me personally, I left the factory connection in place.. completely untouched. and added an ADDITIONAL alt charge wire with my own in-line anl fuse. If you are confident in the conductivity/gauge of the stock fusing, then you're fine. but I personally added my own as opposed to replacing stock. In fact i did that with all of the big 3. I added additional runs without touching the stock ones. So did u decide which way to wire your battery?

Yea man we had the same problem, I guess whenever you have galvanized it starts to corrode other plumbing. I had no idea. Our house was built with the wrong type of tubing on the hot water heater. We just had it all replaced.

How are you planning to wire it? You can do a run of 0 gauge wire from the + on the batt under the hood all the way back to the kinetic, and then ground the kinetic to the frame.. OR you can run a 0 gauge wire from your alternator to the kinetic in the trunk and ground it to the frame. Both ways will allow it to charge from the alt. Do u have the big 3 done though? yeah i just finished the big 3 Well, that wire that u have running from the alt to like, what is that a fusebox? and the batt + is connected to the same fuse box thing? The alternator + can go directly to the battery +...even if the stock alt charge wire did not, you can always add the one directly from the alt to the battery IN ADDITION ALSO there should be a 0 awg wire running from the Engine block, to the frame..it should be the same spot u used to ground the battery... AND that ground point needs to be sanded off and cleaned before u attache the wires there.

First of all, wait to hear what fed ex says. Second, it's VERY possible it was stolen of your front step, I've seen this happen around here more than once. In that case, contact Fed Ex say that u never got it, see if it was insured... Also contact DD and see what they have to say about it. Other than that... Hopefully its a mistake or misdelivery or something..

Goo Gone fucked up my clear coat when i de-badged my car... I'd use gasoline.

Man i know the feeling. We have a finished/carpeted basement, I walked down there in socks and all the sudden i'm stepping in a puddle... Rip up the carpet and the floor is covered...pull off some drywall and theres water SHEETING down the wall, we ended up getting like 2 inches deep before we found where it was coming from...

Yea, it does, it has a max limit, so u can only slide the volume up to the point you set it to... But WHERE DO I SET IT?? lol. i want the maximum output of my ipod without clipping... someone O scope it! just literally turn the volume down on the ipod like 2 pixels and save the lock there lol. Alright if u say so lol

I've been looking for a new HU, but right now i can't afford it. I have a double din slot but my stock radio has XM, Bluetooth, On Star, Steering wheel controls, and its on top of GM's 7 Speaker pioneer system, and i haven't been able to find a HU that can drive the amp that the car came with, or how to integrate all of that. Besides that, I guess i'll turn my ipod down a tic and save it there.

How are you planning to wire it? You can do a run of 0 gauge wire from the + on the batt under the hood all the way back to the kinetic, and then ground the kinetic to the frame.. OR you can run a 0 gauge wire from your alternator to the kinetic in the trunk and ground it to the frame. Both ways will allow it to charge from the alt. Do u have the big 3 done though?

Alternator properly installed? check all your ground connections... Also do u have an external voltage regulator? or is it regulated by the car's ECU? If it's external, check the voltage its set to. What is the voltage at the amp with the car running?