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If I remember correctly the Fiero has coolant lines that run the length of the side rail to get to the front for the heater core radiator and overflow it has been a while since I have been under one, I would inspect those coolant lines to make sure they have not been crushed by a lift or a jack. Next did you follow the proper coolant fill procedure when refilling the system. Those little buggers are not joking and must be filled in the manner outlined in the service manual in order for the system to operate properly. I am not being smug those guys are a pain to get air out of. If not properly filled and bled it can create an overheating situation. If you do not have a service manual there are online resourses that outline the process.

I would have to agree with what a lot of these guys are saying. Having run kickers in the past they get loud as hell but not so much for sq. I am not so familiar with DC but I do know they are a well respected company with great customer service. If you are looking for sql do some research and see what people are running in their setups and you may change your mind for your setup all together. Off the top of my head I would look into the FI Q, AA SMD, Digital Designs do not remember which one off hand, (I know this one will get some bad press) JL W7 or 6, something like the Treo TE and probably a few others since this is just a quick throw it out there. I have only heard one pair of DC's and they were level 4 15s not sure how much power they were on I believe it was two kicker amps actually they sounded really good better than most kickers I have heard but the set up was for ground pounding not sq.

I understand this is a business decision but it will impact a lot of people. I live in middle TN and there have been lots of layoffs and closing of facilities in the production world. HP/Compaq hires a lot of folks and if the facility closes there will be that many more people out of work or now taking a job making a fraction of what they were making. This will just be another case of wow another good employer gone damn now lets see what the fallout is. Not blaming HP for an already bad situation just kind of a WTF moment.

I'll give you two instances I have had with amps going in to protect. Back in the mid early nineties I had an Alpine 3555 was 50wx4 at 4 ohm and two ohm stable. I was running rockford separates 6.5 and 1" soft dome. One set on each channel. One of the 6.5's started going and my amp started going in to protect after like 10 minutes. The mid on a dmm only read 2.6 but that amp did not like loads below three ohms. Had the amp checked out nothing wrong it just did not like low ohms. I replaced that set of separates under warranty and no more problem. Another situation was recently I gave one of my nephews my old set of treo tsi 12 8 ohms each. His eclipse 600 watt amp would go in to protect after 15-20 min. I did not install it my bro and a friend of his did. I went through it and found that they had reversed the polarity on one of the subs. I flipped to be the same on both sides running in parallel and no more problem. I have also had problems from running a screw through a wire causing a short in one of my speaker paths. So I guess I gave you three instances. Good luck finding the problem and nice build man. That truck is very nice.

What I think Team DC Derrick is saying is either one of your highs either a mid or tweet or both is in the process of blowing. This can alter the impedance to an unstable level and cause the amp to go into protect mode. The highs you have if the are the ds6.8 are rated at 35rms and your amp in four channel mode sends 60rms to your speakers or in two channel 175. So a blown high would be the most logical culprit. Easy way to check pull out your high put it on a dmm and check the resistance if it checks good then look at the wiring for the speaker then to your power then to the amp itself. Hope this helps man and good luck.

Mustangbuzz when you click on the link for the 2.0 10 and it comes up the D4 means dual 4 ohm. Yes listen to Watch they are 250 rms each so if you run them in parallel for a 1ohm adjust gains carefully.

Yes Audioque is a reputable company with a very big popularity. They are not known like Kicker or Fosgate but they are not and have never been sold by big box chains either. The 2.0's are the entry level AQ subs comparable to the rockford p1 or the prime series also comparable to the JL w0 and the kicker comp. Do not confuse the comp with the comp vr that Watch the bass recomended the compvr is a midlevel and a step up from entry level. The link he sent you for the price on those vr's I would be tempted to go with them over the 2.0's. Also if ordering off of ebay for vr's is worrysome Audio savings has a deal as well there is a misprint in the specifications they are dual 4 ohm not dual 2 ohm http://www.audiosavings.com/products/10-Inch-Car-Subwoofer/%282%29-KICKER-07CVR10-CVR-10-CAR-SUBWOOFERS-CVR10-4-OHM/%282%29+07CVR104.aspx The 2.5 from AQ is the comparable to the VR's.

If you started with something like the AQ 750 a pair of the 2.0 10s and a stinger kit something like http://www.woofersetc.com/p-6668-shk641-stinger-hpm-series-4-gauge-complete-amplifier-wiring-kit.aspx you would have a good starting point. It is always a good idea to do the big three but for a gained down 750 stock should be just fine until you expand then Def the big three and a good cap or second small battery would be advisable. I would strongly think about saving up for a good AGM battery to go with this system XS and Stinger make great ones.

Do you currently have anything for an install head unit or wiring wise? 500 is a difficult budget to do a complete and proper install with and almost impossible to do with quality products. A quality wiring kit will run you $100 minimum. But 500 can be considered a starting point.

Sundown Audio is just Sundown Audio and normally referred to as such. AQ or Audioque is a shoot off of Digital Designs from what I understand so that they can offer the best price for the DIYers and is only available online. Obsidian Audio is kind of like to Sundown what AQ is to DD from what I understand(I am sure there are guys on here that can truly clear that up). AQ makes a great product for a good price my nephews car is outfitted with AQ amps and woofers for a little over a year now and great quality and performance for what he paid. I hear the Obsidian woofers are great sounding speakers and are priced really well they are not a Sundown SA sub but where designed by the same individual who also is owner of Sundown and part owner of Obsidian. http://obsidiancaraudio.com/index.php?id=2 Like Newls1 said there are better options out there for the money. These options may cost a little more than what the stuff off of amazon does but you will probably be much happier in the long run.

Are you talking about the main guy, the same guy that was in pinapple express LOL True i didnt like it until the last half...the mustang they ruin was a pretty nice car too... hope there is a second one cause i went back to watch the original with mark wahlberg and it is NOTHING alike at all From what I understand Rise of the Planet of the Apes uses a little of the mythology of the original movies but is not a prequel to any of the previous P of A movies. Both the director Rupert Wyatt and screen writer Rick Jaffa say this is the beginning of a potentially new series of these movies kinda of like Batman Begins was for the Batman themed movies prior to it.

I will be losing my map pockets on my front doors and glassing pods with them in. In the rear I will build them in to the 6x9 location and relocating my mids and tweets to another area of the deck. I looked at is a challenge to do something creative LOL. Have fun man those little buggers sound darn good.

I would say yes they would do the trick quite well. I am in the process of upgrading my highs and I am adding two pairs to fill the gap between my mids and my 13.5. My opinion of them is they are a top notch midbass woofer not really a sub. I am not familiar with the sa8's output. I am familiar with the sa12's and they would blend well and not overshadow it at all. But that is nothing some level adjustments could not fix.

A friend of mine has four of the 8 ohm version behind the rear seat of his four door full size Chevy truck. He is running them parallel for a 2ohm load off of the sub channel of a JL HD 900/5. Also he has the Audio Control EQS to control equalization. The w36's are in a single chamber ported box I believe they are tuned to around 45hz. He has the big three and not sure which red Stinger bat up front but I know he has the SPP 680 under the back seat. He has Focal 2 ways in all four doors. They sound great on what he normally listens to which is Jazz classic rock and country. In my opinion if you are looking to add a good punch in a very small space these are great little woofers. I have heard them on the type of music described above not on rap. I would doubt they have the boom that most rap contains at least in the box he built. They do fill the low end very well and balance perfectly with his highs for a very well balanced sound.

And a little bit more FYI. It may be worth investing in an O-scope or the SMD dd-1 distortion detector. That will help clean up the sound and very well may take care of the overheating problem. My Zapco before o-scope would fry eggs and clip after gets warm and plays clean.

If you have had success with them in the past and they seem to be in your price range. I have friends with both the p300 and the r500 and they have had good success with them. Yes they are both in the 140-150 price range but worth the little bit of extra in my opinion. Though I did have one of the dpx clarion's designed by Robert Zeff and it was quite nice. From your list I would prob go with clarion because I like the company but I think I would spring for the Fosgate amp.

Nice. I heard those guys put out some power. I thought about going that route when they came out but i switched from Rockford to Zapco around the time they came out. Good luck with the hunt man. And congrats on getting a fine piece of equipment.

I agree clamping it will be the only way to find out the true power output of the amp. I would look on ebay for a knob but you might also try contacting rockford or a good dealer the amp may just be new enough that you can still order the base knob and cord from the manufacturer. I purchased the crossover chips for a an old school power 300 (the black one with a fan shroud) i beleive seven years after they quit making them. So good luck.

That is a yes and no situation. First off it is an E car they tend to be the least reliable of the BMW line. Like any thing it is all about maintenance. If you do the maintenance the way BMW describes it the cars will almost go forever. I have owned two a 1980 320i and a 1992 735i. I got rid of my 320 with 360k on it and still running strong. I sold my 735 with 398k to my brother it now has 475k and no major issues. Parts are a little more expensive but not that bad for the BMW line. They are not as high as say VW Porsche or Mercedes. True there are no super cheap aftermarket parts but who wants to use those anyway. The car is a 1986 so it will prob need more work than a comparably priced US model. The US model would prob be ten years or so newer and not be able to touch the BMW on fuel economy. So if you average it over the potential life span of a comparable model the size repair cost would probably average out. The US model nickel and diming and the BMW being a large bill for every true repair. The cost of maintenance is roughly the same, unfortunately most american car owners do not maintain their cars in the proper manner. Not only was I a BMW owner but I was an ASE certified mechanic and worked in the repair business for twelve years. So my view point comes from our customers and what I witnessed at that one shop. If it were a 325i I would completely disagree with you. Being that it is a 325e I would be skeptical they just do not stand up to the i line. I can not agree that a German car is more expensive our highest bills went to Saabs and Fiats followed by Mercedes then Cadilacs being the next. Yes a BMW repair for a life of car will cost more than say a Crown Victoria but probably be cheaper than that of a Grand Am. I have owned those two as well. So I apologize for the novel, there is no short way to respond to your post. There are lemons from all manufacturers and a bad BMW will eat you alive but so would any bad US made.

I am fan of the Treo engineering TE's. They handle 500W RMS. I pounded mine for about two years. My commute to work is 1 hr each way and i listen to my music a little over half volume they held up sounded clean and put out great low end on digital bass. I pulled them out to reduce size of my system not because they were worn out. The DC's are great no question just offering my personal experience with another make.

I agree with these guys the AQ's are great amps at a good price. Plus if you by it from AQ's site you get the full warranty. My nephew has the 1200 and it pumps out juice well and has never shut down from getting to hot.

Could use a little more info like budget. There are loads of great 500-600 rms mono amps. Also how does he want to run them? All parallel for a 1 ohm load or series parallel for a 4 ohm load? Does he want to run a two channel or a mono? Will he be upgrading the electrical at all? Does he wish to buy an amp just for this set up or plan on the future and invest in a top end amp that is capable of 1 ohm 2000 rms but will put out 600w rms at 4 ohm? I am a fan and currently run a Zapco amp but I ran Rockfords for years but there are many other great choices as well. I know I did not directly answer your question but hopefully I gave you some things to consider before you purchase.

My dream amp back in the early 90's was the MTX Terminator MTA250 made by Precision Power for MTX if I remember correctly. I know PPI made the board for the amp. Here are some photos from ampguts.com MTX Terminator MTA 250 Output Power at 12.5V: 2 x 50W @ 4 ohms (0.02% THD) 2 x 100W @ 2 ohms 2 x 200W @ 1 ohm 2 x 400W @ ½ ohm 1 x 200W @ 4 ohms bridged 1 x 400W @ 2 ohms bridged 1 x 800W @ 1 ohm bridged Ok I can not figure out how to upload pics so here is a link http://ampguts.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=1228

very first amp was a Linear Power Runt in dark blue. Had it pushing a pair of Sony 6x9. I forget the model number on the sonys but you could cut a wire and bi amp the mid tweater and the woofer sepparately. only took me a week to decide to cut those wires and run them as bass. then i had to get some real speakers and more power. I think that was 91.

I have just had two twelves in a four cubic feet box in mine so that I could maintain a large amount of my trunk space. I saw a crown vic or maybe it was a lincoln in a post on here that had something like 8 or 10 tens in it. So the trunk is huge. I have seen in my local shop an install with two Treo SS 18's it took up the majority of the trunk once you included extra batteries and amp rack. My guess would be around ten cubic feet internal volume would be around the limit but i have never measured it nor looked up the total cubic feet of the trunk. I have to haul gear in mine for work, so I have never put a huge box in. The reason I did the big 3 electrical upgrade is the stock wires were small, old and not able to keep up with the 1k i was pushing and my head lights would dim at the moment my air ride pump would kick on if I was pounding my system. My amp pulls 60 amps I believe but it was just enough of a drain.