audiofanaticz

Ill never fuse my ground wires...

They are both dry cell batteries, they will both work for vehicle starting applications. A battery is a battery, tho some companies have better technolgy in their batteries. A kinetik will out perfrom a optima in all ways most the time. So if you got the extra cash just get the hc1800 and have matching batteries Im not sure on the cca (cold cranking amps) of the redtops vs the hc1800, and dont feel like looking at the momment, but most likely the kinetik should be higher then the red tops. But again the CCA rating is not going to matter much, because your going to have the 2 hc2400s in the back which will help raise your front battery performance up a bit. Now if there was a isolater seperating the front battery from rears batteries, I would really suggust going with which ever battery has the higher CCA and AH ratings, but if thats not the case its not going to mater all to much. With the rear batteries too, they will also float their voltage through out the cars components and other batteries, so say if your front battery got a tad dead somehow, the rear batteries will kinda charge that front battery and level the voltage our evenly for all 3 batteries.

Out of all honestly I dont think either or will help your situation. If you have 2 kinetik hc2400s in the rear right now, and your still having problems starting your vehicle a upgraded battery under the hood wont help much. Unless of coarse you are running a battery isolater on the rear batteries seperating them from the front battery and cars electrical components. I myself have ran a red top under my hood for about 7+ years now and never had a problem with it, also have 2 powermaster d3100s in my trunk that are almost 1.5 years old now. But my option for a front battery would rely on price, which you could get cheaper, and if your concerned with having matching front and rear battery brands. I myself would like to have a powermaster under my hood to match the powermasters in my trunk, but right now my redtop is holding up strong so no need for replacement til she dies.

They will blink to the beat of the music if you wire them up to the speakers. BUT.............................. Led's are very low voltage, they are like 1.5-6volt depending on brand, usally there is a circuit board that wull reduce the vehicles voltage to the led voltage like a transformer.. If you over power the led's which you will if you hook them up to the speaker wires they will fry when volume gets turned up to a certain point.. I wouldnt consider doing something so half assed like to that to my own vehicle let alone a customer that came to you to install his door speakers. And yes I do have experience, not only do I work at an audio shop installing, I also work for installernet.com where i go from place to place through out my state doing various installs.

if the vehicle has power locks or windows there is a power source in the door. the power windows will be switched power, with the key on the windows will go up and down. If you tap of the power windows power, the lights will turn on and off when the key is on, and turn off when the key is off. even still this isnt too great to use because for example if you get pulled over and the cops see it, you will most likely get a ticket. the power door locks are constant power, meaning it dont matter if the key is on or off, the power locks will lock and unlock. If you tap into the power locks your led's will be on all the time unless you put a inline switch between the power from the locks and the leds. If you do this, you will need to run a switch on every door to turn the led's on and off... your best idea is running a switch in the dash, and run a power wire 16-12 gauge to from the switch to each speaker, then chassis ground the negative of the led's to the door frame, thus making only one wire to run.

Umm hook up a power to the leds, you will prob be able to ground to the chassis of the car. but you would still need a 12v constant ran into the door, with a switch to turn the led's off and on because I wouldnt think the person would want them on 24/7. Or run them off a ignition switched power source so they turn on and off with the car. Most likely there is already a constant or switched power source inside the door if you where any type of installer a test light or dmm would provide you a way to find it. Some where in the power doorlock or power window harness you could tap into, but again you wouldnt be able to switch them on and off manually which is something needed. Really now, if your doing installs and dont know how to wire up led's I dont think you should be doing installs on peoples vehicles, let alone running gear made by Dual when most stock speakers will out perform a dual brand speaker. Most newer dodges (rams, caravans, town and countrys, durangos) 96 and up come with a infinity speaker setup or powered infinity speakers..

bump bump bump!!

but once you accepted their paypal payment I dont think the buyer can cancel the transaction screwing you out of the money, and I dont think paypal itself would screw you over so you should have nothing to worry about. I understand about protecting yourself, but when I buy things, I want them asap. Thats why if I can get something from a shop and pay just a lil more for it, ill buy it there then order it online and wait for the shipping and all.

That takes up to 4 days... Id be one salty buyer and leave you negative feedback if I had to wait for payment to be deposited into your bank from paypal, even tho it has already cleared and you have verifcation in your paypal account. If your gonna make a buyer wait that long to ship something, you might as well just avoid paypal all together and ask for a money order or cashiers check.

nice little review there noob!, shit sounds like its beating!!

no, just 2 batteries... Its not like it matters, the smart charger charges them full in 15 minutes, and well it takes longer then 15 minutes to drain a battery out. Besides you can only use 1 tool at a time.

Its not really bothering, its just that you make a post then bump it up 8 minutes later... Sooner or later someone will see it and post. And if you type-in "bassrace" in google the first response is... Did you mean: bass race Search Results 1. Competition Rules Bass Race is a new format of auto sound competition specifically tailored for ... The safety of the competitors, judges, and bystanders at a Bass Race event ... www.termpro.com/dbdrag/rules/index.asp?Page=3 - 48k - Cached - Similar pages - Which is the same link(s) I gave you that took under a whole minute to find and post

Its really easy, google bassrace and Im sure youll find something like www.termpro.com Bassrace rules http://www.termpro.com/dbdrag/rules/index.asp?Page=3 DB Drag rules http://www.termpro.com/dbdrag/rules/index.asp?Page=1 Rules will most likely change for 2009 a little bit, so keep up to date with them.. they are pretty simple!

This is something I got in my basement. Ill prob tear the wood top off it sometime in summer and reface it with new wood and stuff her in my garage.

Yea, i used the hell out of my buddies Bosch impact gun, his is just 18 volt non lithium ion, and heavy as hell!! These makitas are way light, and are balanced to prevent fatigue from extended periods of use. The lights are also really bright and stay on for a few seconds after you hit the trigger. Not to mention this little makita impact has more torqe per square inch then my friends and is lighter The 15 minute rapid smart charge is cool too, has a built in fan that turns on when you plug the battery in, and the charger is for all Ni-MH & Li-ion 7.2volts-18volts, so if you got older tools with different batts, this charger will most likely charge them! Thats a bonus if you ask me!! Heres the bosch. Look at picture of recepits, click the black box at the top for a larger view, its clearly readable thanks. I didnt want i huge set, i found 2 little kits, but where 40$ each, they would of fit in a bag with ease, this kit was 80$ and when I need it Ill have to haul a box and a bag, instead of 2 bags. Ill make it work tho. and I want to replace the craftsman rachets with snap-on's, once you used their rachets you cant go back!!! fine tooth and smoothness ftw Also forgot to add that I will proboly be buying a tpi scopeplus 440 in a week or two too SCOPE FTW

No subs in the car till prob spring or when I get a real garage door on the garage. In no hurry, got a beater for the winter.

A new job needs new tools, since Ill be mostly on the road Ill need to have a few basic things with me. So a shopping spree kinda began. I got owned when I seen this... It took about 20 minutes to put them all in the right spot.. and the damage was?!? Lol Its also to snow pretty bad tonight and most of tuesday. Last i heard was 6 to 12 inches of snow.. but I good! My buddy down the block is coming over later with his atv to plow my side walk, then the guy he works for and I work for every now and then fixing up his rental properties is comming over with his plow to do my driveway. my neighbors on my right are shoveling now, and some other people are brushing off their cars.. Lol

ouch.. at that prices you could buy a new to you used amp almost. Lol You can try ARC, www.amprepaircenter.com I use them a bit, and nothing costed me over $200 yet, and free return shipping if repiard and free quotes. Db-r can also do it, but youll be waiting most likely.

That is funny. A fused ground wire... :01nocomment8so:

my royal purple fluids ftw then i guess. I got no probs with mine at all. but my 4.5 in my eldo blue either a head gasket or intake gasket, which bars leak sealed up really good, but I have yet to get heat back in it and its my winter beater!!

There is no way that the IA 20.1 is louder then a goliath.... Unless your friend had MAD voltage drop, and cant supply the goliath proper power. Your putting up a 5000krms amp against a 2000krms amp.... That golitath is gonna take almost 3 times the current as the 20.1. Your friend fried his amp due to User Error... Something is totally not right in that setup..

Dude, for real your asking to get banned from this site very fast!! When you have the owner of the site lock your topic and says to stop the bashing of the products..... but you do it again. If I was admin, youd be banned, and I probolly would ban myself too The same exact topic as this, and you even acknowleged meade, now you disobey. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=33667 ~The Orion HCCA D5000 is a 2500wrms amp @ 1 ohm (now thats 3 or 4 times you been told that). You would be a fool to buy this older model amp when the new one is right around the corner for a cheaper price! ~The New 2009 Orion HCCA 5000.1 wont be out for a while, runs the cactus sounds 5kw board, and does 5000wrms @ 1 ohm, but wont be out for a little while yet. ~Hifonics amps do RATED PLUS power if you stay away from their beguinner line, So any older XX or newer XXV line will do rated + power. Things like the brutus, titan, zeus lines are for the novice guys (they are cheap priced, do a little under their rated power, the novice guy wont notice the quality/power difference). ~You have about a 90% chance of frying that btl with 5000 watts!

I flip around with my body wash, most the time its old spice, but Ive tried axe and a few others, and the lasting fresh smell just wasnt there with'em. Shampoo is Loreal vive pro, pink bottle Smells like a chicks hair, they like it, so it makes them feel comfortable. Plus if they ever need to take a shower afterwards they got somethign to use that they will like. Always OLd spice deodarant, either pure sport or Fresh, I change back and forth. Smells really good really long, and works even better

hehe, mine is pounded to hell and back almost 180K, walled built with 8 sheets of 4' by 8' 3/4" mdf, 80lbs batteries, 20" rims, and still breaks the tires loose on dry ground in 1st and 2nd gear... My northstar must be special... My non-northstar 4.5L v8 is another story......