audiofanaticz

Most likely the amp is going into some sort of protection. Both reasons (amp turning off, and blowing fuses) is mostly cause by the amp being pushed too hard. The amp is most likely making clipped power, which causes the amp to run hotter then normal. Set the gain and bass boost correctly.

you need it set at dc voltage. sorry I didnt specify before

Your amp has a 60 amp fuse rating, and with your two 30 amp fuses in, it is a 60 amp fuse rating. For setting your gain follow these directions. Your amp is running at 2 ohms I assume correct? if so you want to match your gain so that your amp is putting out max rms wattage which is 900 watts rms at 2 ohms. Your going to need a DMM (digital multimeter) if you dont have one you can buy a cheap one from walmart for under 10 bucks, use it one time and return it :) You are going to want to set bass/treble/midrange on your cd player all to 0 (or flat. no added sound inhancements). You want to disconnect your subwoofers from the amp also. Turn down your gain/bassboost all the way. Hook up the dmm too your speaker outputs on your amp (as if it was a sub). Have the dmm on the voltage setting. Your going to need to use a test tone for the best result since the frequencys on normal music contstantly change. A 50 hertz test tone is usally the best to use. you can download testtone tracks on ROE. Turn your stereo on, put the volume up 3/4 the way. Play the test tone (put it on repeat if you can, otherwise just burn the tone a few times over on the cd since its only 10 seconds long). then start turn the gain up on your amp til you get to your target voltage. your target voltage for your amp would be 42.4 volts. once you see that on the dmm your good. Now if your running bass boost, you are going to want to turn that up a little bit probolly before turning up the gain. I for sure wouldnt go past 45 volts on the dmm. that will be ruffly 1000 watts. It shouldnt hurt the amp to clip it a little bit, but too much is bad for it. After you got your gain all set. go back in and reset your bass and treble on the cd player as needed.

WoW.... Man steves rant post was funny tho. why would I stop flashing Rockford Fosgate? I love Rockford Fosgate, in fact I think my Rockford Fosgate amps are the best amps ive ever owned. Same with the sick Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.2’s. Oh man I love my Rockford Fosgate mids and highs that I installed in my Honda, they sound so good! Hey did you notice Im doing two Rockford Fosgate T15k’s in the Caddy? Did I mention I love Rockford Fosgate! That had me cracking up. You said RF so many times I bet that guy got salty when he had to read that. Meh, I got no problem with meade he a cool guy and seems to be pretty straight foward

I didnt read the thing, but I just got a raise last thursday. I get a buck more now And exceeding your work is a huge part of getting a raise. I ran the f**k out of any machine I was on casting more parts then 1st and 3rd shifts.

me I also kinda like them. but i think for me to want to buy them, they would need to devolpe something for it to be just a tire and not a whole wheel.

what ohm are your subs? Nevermind I looked them up and they are 12s Im guess. Single 4 ohm coils. 400 watts rms, 1200 watts peak. Your amp is 500watts rms by 1 channel at 4 ohms 900watts rms by 1 channel at 2 ohms 1800watts peak. (which is very doubtful that you WILL NOT get that kind of power from that amp unless lightning strikes it). The amp is fused at 60 amps stock from the factory. 900 watts out of a 60 amp fusing is kind of hard to believe, and that maybe 1 of your problems. you need to be running at 15 volts about to get 900 watts rms out of 60 amps of fusing which aint happening. Im assuming your subs are running the amp at 2 ohms which should be stable. So my next thing brings me to your gain/input sensitvity setting. Im sure it is set incorrectly and or very high, and maybe your bass boost too. You dont want those things maxed out. In most cases your amp gain/sensitivity should never be higher then half way up, but there are some factors that will change that like how much bass boost your running, your head unit pre amp voltage etc. You can try putting in two 40 amp fuses (I think they are orange colored) with 80 amps of fusing you will be fused for ruffly 800 watts give or take, but if you fry them Im going to have to go and say that you are clipping your amp by having the gain and or bass boost set to high, because it "sounds" louder but in reality you are clipping your amp and the power your subs are getting is dirty and will either fry your subs, rip the tinsel leads, burn the coil, or fry your amp.

Damn bro, sucks it has the wrong motor for my needs. Ive been looking for a while for a 95/99 series sub no matter if its blown or not since Im just in search for the motor. Your sub kinda looks how mine will, but mine will be beefier with a triple stacked motor, 8 inch carbon fiber dustcap, a black frame, and dual 1.5 ohm coils. I was wanting quad coils, but the quad coils are not as tall and the pitch of the composite cones is different then the normal cones so quad coils and composite cones wont work.

I think its www.ficaraudio.com Oh and seeing that the box has a double baffle I would think it maybe a bl or btl. I wouldnt think you would need a double baffle on a ssd or a q.

Well the ssd subs are 800wrms, the Q subs are 1000wrms, the Bl subs are also 1000wrms, and the btl sub is 2000wrms. If its a ssd sub, I wouldng give it much more then 1000wrms. But again, with out knowing what model it is, its hard to say. Fi speakers are under rated a lot at least the btl's are, but Im not sure about the lower end line such as the ssd and q.

you aint going to be able to tell what model the sub is by looking at the cone. Your going to have to pull the sub out the box and look at the motor, then just go on Fi's site and look at their subs. They only have 4 sub models and each model runs a different motor from the looks of it so it should be easy to find out which is which.

Damn, that sucks. I guess the volt meter that I took off one of my rf 20volt digital caps is wrong, along with my volt/amp gauge on my stinger fuse block, and the stock caddy gauge. Man I got some issues I guess My red top under the hood sat on a trickle charge before I ever used it for over a week, close to 2 weeks, but the battery is quite old now. As for the bass knob it is working great. I really like it, it adds a bigger kick to the amp, I still got to swap some wires around tho and try to get a bigger current flow to the amp.

I rolled around with 2.5%, 5%, and 20% on my cars in the past. And even with 20% i found it hard to see out my windows at night when parking. Ive also got many many many tint violation tickets. All where fines from $150 to $210 if I remember right, and theres no fix it tickets in WI Right now my caddy is tinted 50% all the way around except the front window. Cops havent bothered me yet for it, and its all legal, if I wanted too I could of tinted my rear windows to 35% by law but with my city thats just asking for trouble even tho it is legal.

Oh yes I did get my present. I posted it on my build thread for some reason. It works nice, very nice. good looking out bro! my post from my other thread: So im sitting on my crapper taking a crap of coarse and my door bell rings... Im starting to get mad cuz im trying to get ready for work and my phone wont stop ringing. I get to the door no one is there I look down and I see this. MEADE FTMFW Thanx man! My car is going to feel so special because it has meade property making it bang louder

I want to see a picture of that.... 20% tint is pretty dark, and for driving at night you are not only putting yourself at risk but all the other people driving on the road.

That must be why they are out of red composete cones. What magnet does it have on it, and what coils. Maybe it might be my needed twin to wall off my caddy

You should always leave factory wires intact. The extra factory wire is just that much little extra current your vehicle will get. And you should also fuse the after market wires used for the big 3. Just to protect your battery and or alt.

Which I know, but I think he had a hook up for it because he needed some more, but dont quote me, I just remember reading about it because someone else asked about it. I know the rf 2/0 was made back in 2005 but dont know how long it was made for.

Yea, steve did use 2/0 in the hoopty. I dug through the posts and found some pics, by looking at them, the spools look pretty old. I think I remember reading someplace that steve said it is no longer made and that was all he had or something. It may have been in a different post tho. Maybe you can get a serial number or model number off the spool and then try to google it. Edit: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/pr...mp;locale=en_US 5929 strand count also :)

I was looking at the kolossus site but couldnt find strand counts on the stuff. but i just checked the site again, and found out i had to click the link that said learn more about this product. I dont think I looked at that last time. :blush: edit: but the kolossus is around $30 more then the lightning audio wire, buck for buck the la is still out on top, but if you got the extra funds, get the kolossus wire. Altho the kolossus is putting the stinger 3/0 to shame which is funny

Oh and me, Im not hating. I got cash. My sub amp costs more then many peoples complete audio systems. Im just trying to shine some light on the subject for the person who has asked. And the light Im shinning is stay away from stinger because your paying more cash for less quality (ie: strand count).

It has nothing to do with being prem... Stinger wire is crap. You got ripped on it most likely unless you got it for $4.00 a foot. You can get a 50 foot roll of Lighting audio 1/0 for $100. that is 4704 strand count. 2 runs of that wire will put your stinger 3/0 to shame. As for RF wire, its $100 bucks for 40 feet, again has 4704 strand count and to runs of it will put the stinger wire to shame. Buying either one of those wires will be cheaper then the stinger wire, and will give you more current flow for less money and not sacerficing performance! Welding cable is perfectly fine to use. As someone else said, it wont have a high strand count, but the strands will be much bigger. The welding wire also has a bigger amp handling, which puts all audio wire to shame, not to mention it cost less. The only BAD thing about welding wire is it is not too flexible. But some companys do make a cable that flex's a little bit more, but also cost more, but the ultra flex is still cheaper then the audio wire. Ive been checking out all possabilites for wire for a few weeks now since I will be doing 4 or 6 runs of wire on my new install im working on. So far either the fosgate or the lightning audio wire is by far the cheapest with the most strand count. You can find. http://cgi.ebay.com/40-Ft-Rockford-Fosgate...oQQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/50-Ft-Lightning-Audio-...oQQcmdZViewItem

Stinger wire is still not that great.. yea its 3/0 but its only 6272 strand count for almost $8.00 a foot. And if you compair the stinger 1/0 flat wire which is 4312 strand count which is almost $5.00 a foot to either RF or kicker wire, you will see that both kicker and RF both have a higher strand count... Its a complete gimmick just like amps that are rated in peak wattage. Your paying almost $390 for 50 feet of that crap wire (yes crap). while you can go buy a 50 foot roll of kicker 0/1 for $250. and I think the kicker strand count is the same as rockford which is 4704. So is that 150 bucks extra really worth it? when You can pretty much use 2 runs of 1/0 and have a 9408 strand count for just a little more? Lightning audio wire is also 4704 strand count for the 0awg too and I think its even cheaper price wise then the rf.

me too. I need at least 50 feet of positive and 50 feet of negitive. What wire can you get, price per spool, and strand count?

Im also running a Mtec Hid conversion and love it. NOTE: In many states anything higher then a 8000 degree temp bulb is more then likely ILLEGAL. The higher the temp the bulb is the more blue it will be. But also the higher temp the bulb is, the less light output it will have. My 8000k temp bulbs are very blue, 10-12000 bulbs start to become purple. This is the direct link to my ebay auction of the bulbs I bought. The seller is very fast on responses, and ships fast for it being international shipping. I got the product sooner then somethings I bought in the states. I am thinking about buying a 2nd set for my highbeams from the same user on ebay. If you go with Mtec's make sure they are authentic mtecs and not a knock off/imitation mtec kit. The ebay auction shows you the difference between the real and fake kits, and also provides links to sellers selling the fake kits. The Mtec kits must be somewhat good if people are making FAKE kits of them.. In the picture the below, the headlight on the right side of the picture (driverside of car) is a 8000k mtec hid bulb. The headlight on the left side of the picture (passenger side of the car) is a 80 watt farenheit blut bulb aka a fake hid bulb. More info on HID's here http://www.gtcars.ca/online/general-car-ta...h-hid-kits.html