audiofanaticz

I dont know. it looks like it says spl in the top right corner even tho its blurry you can still make out the spl.. They may have a higher reading one too. I dunno, but it is the walmart one. You can totally tell from the shape of the light grey around the screen and the darker grey around the lighter grey.. Looks like they been talking bout them on roe... Quoted from RoE. theres a few topics about them, some other guy says that the one he has only goes to 130db but hit a 132 on it. and some other guy got his to freeze or something. just search boom stick on roe.

Like i said in the other post, its a boomstick. it probolly reads way higher then what it really is.. I payed $10 too get metered on a AC at extreme audio in manitowac wisconsin, and the meter said 157. I know for a fact Im no where near that loud in a big sedan.

I SPY WALMART!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That looks like one of them scosche boomstick you can buy at walmart for $30.00.. Heres one on the walmart site. I seen one there and just started laughing. Now the guys that buy their cheap audio gear from their are going to start thinkin they be bumping louder... But I still got faith in my one 12. :rip_1: walmart audio http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?...duct_id=4694329 So id almost hate to see this guys shop if thats his new meter, btw whats his old meter?

Avg is my fav antiviruse program. www.grisoft.com avast also works good too. www.avast.com As for some other spywear progroms. search and destroy is a nice free program http://www.download.com/Spybot-Search-Dest...4-10122137.html And then I also reccomend ccleaner which is a good program for cleaning up misc crap which is free too http://www.ccleaner.com/download/

Well I got my Razer Copperhead mouse on tuesday, and just got the Tarantula keyboard today. The reviews on newegg kind of scared me about the keyboard with people saying it doesnt work in bios, does not support usb2.0, and only gives out 1 channel sound when using the headphone jack on the keyboard. And someone else said that they have a bad typing rate with this keyboard and the backspace is too slow (this person doesnt know about repeat delay and rate in the control panel). I tried all these things out right when I got it and had no probloms with any of the described probloms in the reviews. I left a decent review about it on newegg because the other buyers must of been complete noobs... As soon as my review is reviewed by newegg you can read it. http://www.newegg.com/Product/CustratingRe...N82E16823114001 my name us steamroller. The keyboard is a little hard to get use to compaired too other keyboards, but so far its nothing major and ill be use to it in no time. The keys are really short in height and it feels like your typing on a laptop which I like a lot. As for the mouse, its so sensitive. Ive been adjusting settings for 2 days now, and finally found something I kinda like. I had to do a little reading on the polling rate and what it does, but after reading and gaming a bit i felt comfortable with it on 500mhz which is what the g5 runs I guess, but I can change my rate up to 1000hz with the mouse softwear. Overall I say it was a good $170 spent. Here is a lil pic I took. The Razer logos on the mouse and keyboard fade in and out which I think is kinda cool

nice find. lol made me laugh

if youre looking into headphones with bass id recommend the dt-770 just a heads up in case youre in the market for one. they need a seperate headphone amp tho to truely shine Ive tried many headphones. Ive been using some Sony MDR-V700's amped off my home reciever for over a year now. I also use them at the club when Im in the booth. They have 50mm drivers, and not some cheap diaphram thingys like cheap headphones. Exellent bass respone and clean crisp highs. Ill never buy synhiessers or any compairable headpones again. Djing headphones are the way too go. With the constant unplugging and plugging in and traveling that the headphone do I havent broke nothing on them. Ive read reviews that people broke the swivels on them but mine are still doing good and I would say that I can be hard on my equitment. The dt-770 are looking nice, but the price tag on them is kinda up there

Heh, them are the love fingers, you got to strong with them or the ladies may not like it. But I play CS:s, and am a total awp whore too, and thats what makes the buttons go or something cause I dont stay looking through the scope, I do a lot of quick scoping. I think I put mice becasue I have had so many already and it sounded better So you use the g15, the most I payed for one was $70 with shipping. I do like all the plugins that you can use with the lcd screen display and Im going to miss that, but going throuh 3 of the g15 keyboards makes me now want another one. How long did you have yours for Accord?

Whats everyone use? I just ordered a Razer Copperhead Tempest mouse and a Razer Tarantula keyboard. I use to be a huge logitech fan. But lately I cant do it no more. I Broke 3 logitech g15 keyboards since they came out. Although the first one didnt really break, the paint on the keys wore out and I was left with clear plastic on many keys (w,a,s,d,caps, space, shift, delete,r,t,g,j,h,f,z,x,c). So I contacted logitech and they said it was a huge problom on the first run g15s. So I sent it in and about a month later I get my replacement and it starts to do the same thing, but not as bad. About 3 months later I cleaned it out because it was getting full of ashes and the thing worked like its brand new again, then about a month later it just starts spazzing out some keys wouldnt work. some keys would work some keys you push and they would repeat themselfs a hundred times. So I ordered a new one, get it and about 3 or 4 months later, the new one does the same damn thing.. Now for the logitech mice.. Ive used the mx series for I dont know how long, and every one had the same problom for me. The right click breaks....... My first logitech mx500 right click took a crap, then I bought the mx510 which did the same thing, so I took the left click button out of the mx500 and put it in my mx510 for the right click, same buttons, used it for a few days and gave it to a friend that was using some crappy microsoft ball mouse... he was happy. So to replace the 510 that I gave away, I bought the mx518 real nice mouse and responded alot faster, but of coarse the right click went again. Then I seen they had the logitech g5 wired laser mice, I was all up on that bought one to replace the 518, it worked the longest out of all logitech mice I owned I really liked this mouse but last week the right click went on it. I was going to use the left click out of my 518 to fix it and save myself a few bucks, but because the weight cartridge the chip board is all in the front and it is 1 bored soildered to the top bored where the mouse buttons are, and there where too many things to unsoilder just to fix a button, so I didnt want to spend that much time, so I bought another mx518 from target for $35 until my razer comes. Then I guess Ill have a backup incase I break the razer. I really liked the Logitech mice since the housing is the same on all the mx and g5 series mice so you dont got to get use to holding a new mouse but oh well. So for the mean time Im using this Logitech elite keyboard that you cant even game with cause you cant hit more then 3 or 4 buttons simutanously, which really pisses me off.

Id have to go and say Dfi and Asus would be the only boards I will ever run and use in a build. Like someone else said Asus is rock solid. Im using a basic Asus socket 939 pci express bored because I was short on cash at the moment and I have had no probloms with it. Its a great board for overclocking and every thing is pretty user friendly. Dfi is the king of all boards, but not for novice users.. There are settings galore in the bios. Its pretty much for overclocking. The first time I used one in a build for my friend I was lost, took me a little while to get use too, but has alot of nice features. I flashed his bios 4 times, from oldest to newest bios, and the last/newest flash didnt work, but the board jumped back to the last good bios flash I did, without having to do anything else. I was very impressed with that. Im might as well say that evga is a kick ass company too, never used one of their mobos nor know anyone who has, but if their warrenty is the same as their video cards you cant go wrong. I will only use a evga video card for the warrenty purposes, and that is because I love to OC. If you overclock your video card to much and fry it, it is warrentied. If you flash your bios and mess something up, your card is still warrentied. I think the only way your card is not warrentied is if you do a volt mod. Evga also has the step up program which is if you buy a new card and 2 months or so later something better comes out, they will buy your old card back and take the difference off the new card.

Thats nothing for a price tag.. You should check out the new banana phone. This thing is hott!! a must have! http://cgi.ebay.com/BANANA-PHONE_W0QQitemZ...tem200066612852

Well Ive been thinking to keep my 9512 and just get it upgraded to the 9918. I was just cursious if other people would do the same or go with something different. I just wanted to basicly know if people would do the same as me, or is I would be better off with a fully loaded fi btl. It will actully be a little cheaper for me to upgrade my sub, but I just wasnt sure how the btl would compair. I just know my sub is in need of an upgrade its soo old, but still hits like a champ. Im not even running the direct connect technology on my sub lol

well i got the dd thats not the problom, just wondering if i should upgrade or go with the fi btl. Im hearing nothing but good things with the fi, but dd has already proven to me that it is reliable. Just wondering what people in my position would do, so far it looks like im keeping the dd

he could of painted it. I just wasnt sure looking at it with the holes in the front and the square silver thing looking like the lianli symbol so thats why I was just asking, now that I look at the picture better in more detail the rack that is for your 5.25 drives is no where near the same.

I know its such a hard decision I think. It will cost about the same for me to upgrade my 9512 to a 9918 or buy a fully loaded btl.

Well right now I got my dd9512 with dual 2 ohm coils and the cf cap in my trunk, and Im thinking about moving up in size. I wanted to know what people where thinking. What I am thinking is sending in my dd and have them make it 18 with the red kevlar cone, keep the dual 2 ohm coils and the cf cap. I got the triple stacked magnet on the dd too so its really sexy too look at. or Should I go for the 18 fi btl?

Nice monitor! Whats the response time on it? Are you sporting a lianli case? kinda looks like one.

heh. I took it to the gm garage, labor is kinda expensive their. I was thinking the worst, and you know what it was??? I starter relay under the carpet on the drivers side they said. I guess it got wet and corodide (a word i cant spell)... It costed me 127 to get fixed with the towing bill, and was told that my remote starter (viper) also helped the relay take a crap.... How my remote started would of gotten it wet is beyond me but who knows. I just put on some baer crossdrilled and slotted rotors with some moorse ceramic pads, and now I want to put my rims back on and the weather is still sh!tty here... I also got to get myself a camcoarder, ive been looking around but I want something decent, and dont know if we are having a layoff at work yet so I dont want to spend the cash yet on that. Theres a audio shop about 30 minutes from me that is one of the only places with a mic and last time I went their, I was told I have a cheap amp and a no name sub and they wouldnt meter it on their mic.... I dont really care since they only have a a/c but now Im thinking I may need that camera too go up their and make them meter it and take the camera with me, but my car still looks like sh!t without the blings...

Interesting... Here I just spend 80 bucks on ceramic pads all the way around and am waiting for my 400 bucks worth of baer brake rotors too come in.. oh well i will be able to stop like a race car now... lol

ok thanks. Im just trying to find two matching 2 channels that put out around 200watts rms for my mids and tweets.

do you have another md22 at all? or just two md2ds?

There are calculators to figure this out just like port calcs... just google tire calculator and you will find one. It will ask you to enter your stock tire size and then your new tire size. I know my 255-35-20s are 1.5 % slower then my stock 15s, so when Im doing 60mph, im actully only doing a little more then 59mph. This is the calculator I used, seems to be decent. and I checked it against a few others and seemed to be alright. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

Nice... Gotta love the old school punch.. When I bought mine, I wish I got them models with the chrome magnets, but I got the later versions that had the black magnets and it said punch power dvc in the dust caps.. What did you have powering them?

It looks like the gain is all the way up. More power!!!!!! :^ ok Im done now. Nice amp, what you going to run off it?

cute, but it was hard to even tell if it was a cf, oh well though. I just never heard that before so was just wondering. thanks :^ ps: that was a decent little video... wow I really need a camera :V