audiofanaticz

here is the link to the audioque forums on this site. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/forum/231-audioque-high-quality-car-audio-and-accessories/

You would have to email or call audio que. The baskets normally run $30-$50 for a 18inch basket. The recone for a 18 would probably be in the $90-$120 range depending if you choose the aluminum or copper coil. Im not sure if they charge you to do the recones if you send the woofer in or not. But most likely you will have to pay shipping both ways which will be about $40-$60. but your best bet would be to call or email audio que, or post in their subforums on this site.

what kind of woofer is it????

I think if twisted would lip synced this video it would be great

can i buy that proto right now? LOL she is a sexy beast!

Lols I likey!! +1 rep

Easiest way is to double the angled corner up into a square, figure the displacement out for said square, divide it in half. also a more technical way to do it too thanks bro!

wow so many LOLs in this thread! I needed that, thanks Analtarium and underlok

happy birthday yo!!!!!! Cheers!

1998 Jeep Cherokee limited

They are just different loudness levels of the tone for the most part. the -5db tone will give you more sound quality, and will result in the best sound quality from your setup, but wont get as loud. the -15db tone will give you more loudness (more spl, less sq). the -10db tone will be a mix between -5 and -15 db. Giving you more sq than -15, but more power than 0-5. If your running a lower model subwoofer with an amp more then the woofer(s) combined rms power, -5db is a wise idea!

Nioce yo!!!

Lol being a gold member i can + or - comments in threads FTW! So I gave ya a plus! LOL Hence why I am saying the tone disc included with the dd-1 has multiple tones for your music listening needs.. From 0db, -3db, etc to -15db iirc from reading the book the other night. Besides test tones are a dime a dozen. you can find many of them at all different decibel level on just about every audio site.

Strongly disagree! First off, compensating with a higher gain setting to listen to a lower quality or volume track is not always the best idea.. Then to farther add to having a higher gain to listen to rock and metal... Most kick drums are clipped already when recorded, so a higher gain just adding more clipping. The proper way to go about this is to buy digital remastered oldies, or a epicenter.. This is why the epicenter was made, to restore lost audio, not to bass enhance slowed, chopped and pre-bassboosted songs like what most people think. Hoever, that is a very biased explanation since the tone disc that comes with the DD-1 already features tones at different db levels 0db through -15db based on your music listening choices... PS: Tony, Steve, and Juan must have done something right if they sold over 650 units in under 2 months times... Just saying.

Thus why everyone should buy a SMD DD-1 so you can set your gains just as good if not better than any shop!!

Thanks!! and cant wait to play with her!!! Everyone says they dont get loud pfffffft hoping to prove people wrong and tune way LOWWWWWWW at the same time!! :yahoo:

Thanks buddy

Simple reason. A lot faster to build, no pre-drilling, then screwing, counter sinking, filling the holes.. Brad nails hold just fine! A proper built box is held together by the glue more then any screw or nail. The glue joint will never break at the seem. If it ever breaks or cracks its taking a chunk of the wood with from the piece its glued too. Also too many screw actually weakens the wood. If you screw your boxes together you should only screw every 2-3inches. Any closer is bad. I prefer Titebond 2 or 3 wood glue Ive build a lot of 153+db low tuned boxes. Never had a problem with nails and glue yet. So here is the video in the guys truck pounding. Like I said better louder video coming as soon as the other batteries, alternator, and wire is replaced with some OFC, the CCA wire not doing so hot (literately mean hot)... LOL Hopefully both videos are processed and in HD! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snXROaJmUEs

Thanks!! It means a lot!! Ive been hearing a lot from a kid lately that I dont know how to build and he is better becuase he has more subscrivers and over a million views, but his work is nothing too special imo. hahahaha!! It sounds damn good! hopefully she will be metered soon!! Here is the video of the box build, its lengthy so skipping around is totally fine. Also the short clip of it playing in the vehicle in about 25 minutes, will get more video in the daylight once we get the other batteries, new wire, and alt installed. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJDmVdWPTyI

Thanks!! Now that this is done I can get onto my next project.. Got birch? My plexi also came today via UPS. Next box is for a SMD 18 on 10,000+ Watts RMS!!!! Tuned to about 25-27ish hz

vids of it being built, and being played in the truck uploading now. the build one is almost done.

forgot about the thread, so some updated pics, and video of the build process & the box wanging in the truck ASAP. Just waiting on Youtube!!

You need a tool called a "bitwriter" which plugs into the alarm/remote start brain and allows the installer to change settings on the alarm/remote start. Any authorized DEI (dei being directed electronics inc, owners of the viper, clifford, python, avital, and many more brand alarms/remote starts) shop should have one of these units however this may not fix your problem since you have daytime running lights and they turn on anytime the truck starts. You may have to find the module for the daytime running lights and disconnect it. also depending on how the installer wired up the alarm, they may have wired a headlight trigger, this could also be disconnected if it was used to turn the headlights on. By law for many states that the vehicle running lights must remain on when the vehicle is running.

here are a couple videos about wiring different types of relays and a link if you prefer to read. http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp

depending on the fog light kit you buy, they sometimes come with a pre-wired relay harness that connects to your battery positive and negative and then a switch to turn them on and off that you mount in the vehicle.. Otherwise, if you want to run them with off the lowbeams you will NEED a relay, otherwise you can risk blowing the headlight fuse by trying to run foglights and the lowbeams of the stock lowbeam wiring (DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FUSE THE LOWBEAMS HIGHER, THE STOCK WIRING CANT SUPPORT THE ADDED CURRENT AND WILL MELT THE STOCK WIRING WHICH COULD RESULT IN FIRE)! So if you wanted to run off the low beams power, still use the relay harness that comes with the fog light kit, and then instead of using the switch to turn the headlights on and off, you would wire 1 of the switch wires to the stock positive headlight wire (iitc the positive headlight wire is brown or a tan color) (you would have to test to see which of the 2 wires is the one going to the relay and use that wire). Then when you turn your lowbeams on, the wire going to the relay will turn the relay on, resulting in the foglights going on/off with the low beams.