audiofanaticz

Your running a 2 channel amp that is only stable at 2 ohms bridged... You have it at 1 ohm, with stock electrical. Lets make it simple for you, you keep doing what your doing, your going to clip your subs to death, and blow up the amp. Shyne is 100% right, wire each sub in series at 2 ohms, and run 1 sub at 2 ohms per channel. That amp is only stable at 1 ohm if you use both channels and not having it bridged.

yea tinkering with shit is always fun. I do it alot, and if it dont work and makes smoke, thats just as much fun. But depending where that trace goes, it could or could not mess with the output sound. Guarenteed it has a good chunk to do with it. Maybe the amp was lucky and it just fried that from too much current, and nothing else blew. But thats like a slim to none chance. But id just take some stripped copper wire a little longer then the burnt part of the trace, lay it in there, then fill it solid with solder. Then if it works you can say you have a "modded" amp. LOL :01nocomment8so:

Its a old RF amp. Maybe good for running a pair of tweeters active in working condition. I wouldnt bother spending money on repiars for it (prob be 50-120$ plus shipping). Id take my solder gun, and bridge the burnt trace in the board and bench test it just for something to do when bored, and if it smokes more have vid camera ready for a utube video. Then hang it up in your garage as art Or scrap it out for the aluminum heatsink once prices get better. Lol

Price for all 4 sets of Memphis components??? edit: Damn, must not be in too quick of a hurry to get rid of them huh? Oh well Soberbills said he really wanted them so i told him id back down.

Yup, but not allowed in the street class. However batcap has a new battery out called the batcap 4000. Its under the 800cubic in rule for street class(s) it weighs almost 80 pounds like a powermaster 3100. However its only rated at 100ah and 2000amps and Im guessing that the short circuit amps is 4000 (hence its name) Where as a d3100 has 3200short circuit amps, but 117ah ratings. The higher the short circuit amps tho the better in street class. Otherwise daily driver vehicle your going to want reserve and id take the 3200amps with the 117ah over the batcap.

Im not a street competitor so I dont keep up to par on Street rules. But I want to say that the battcap extreme and the DD Z battery are outlawed in street classes because they are not a battery, they are a multicelled capacitor for the most part. They have a super short life span also if used in "street" or daily driver applications. Or at least so I heard. Im 99.9% certain on this.

The speaker wire should be pretty close to what the speaker itself would read. However there is no way to correctly wire up 4 dual 4 ohm subs at a .8 or even a 1.1 ohm load. Your options are .5 ohms, 2 ohms, and 8 ohms for them to be wired correctly. Anything else such as what you have is not given even power to all 4 speakers. Now wiring it correctly at a 2 ohm load will give you less power, but it maybe louder since all woofers would be in phase and hitting the same. Where as the woofers out of phase would cause maybe a lot or just a little cancellation between the woofers. However on the brightside your amp will be playing a little more effiecent and all woofers in phase may make it a tad louder. But its really hard to say. Otherwise depending on your amp??? and your electrical setup??? You can try to parallel all subs together giving you a .5 ohm load, more then likely you currently have tons of rise with 4 woofers, and you would be safe (again depending on your amp and electrical). Then you will get more power from your amp, but it will also take more juice to make said power. But again all woofers would be in phase with each other making it a tiny bit louder. But If you do attempt to wire at .5 ohms, make sure you have the amp in a open area to get suffiecent cooling to it, and keep your eye on it for a while to see how it acts at .5 ohm. If it starts getting hot, it be a good idea to turn it off and let the amp cool down, and think about wiring at 2 ohms until you can get a 2nd amp and run each amp at 1 ohm. just some ideas.

You have your stereo wired up bad. I have a feeling one set of woofers is seeing more power then the other set. What you should do is series all the coils together on all 4 subs, then with the remaining 2 wires from each sub parallel together. However your amp will be played at 2 ohms. But the result of how you have your setup wired is proboly the difference in your actualy reading at the speaker wires. As for calculating impdance rise, burp your vehicle at a said frequancy measure AC voltage and current then use ohms law find the actual impedance at said freq.

Correct.

Ive searched thru 12 or so pages in the amp section on termpro to try and find it, but it was a while ago. So its prob deep in the forums now and the search feature sucks so bad imo. LOL All I could find was dante vs SD ego trips.... LOL Dante: sd amps make dc current, 5 year warranty wont make the company last. Murilo: our amps are lifetime warranty. dante: sd amps go poof unlike stetsom. Murilo: we have 10 stetsoms fixing for customers now. Or something simular to that... LoL All you see is fried this or fried that from Brazil for the most part.

Looks like they are running 10's in the car now. Last time I was at hughes house, they where testing with 12s. Didnt know they changed it up. They are running 1 NSB75 with drop to 10.3 volts, and 4900watts. http://audioforum.termpro.com/topic/4/20431/2.html I didnt say that all tested at higher frequancys. Just a thing Ive noticed with some companies. I was trying to find the exact post on Termpro that I seen it, and the freq was 100hz. It was just used as an example. Not something to base every amplifier off of.

Just remembered what it was. Amp rating. Many amps say they will do said amount of power at said ohm at said voltage. Example: 3000 watts rms by 1 channel @ 1 ohm 13.8 volts. But what many companies dont disclose is the frequency that their test is done at. and Ive seen this in LOTS of tests too. Many times these tests are done at 60 hz. Now we are talking about sub amps here, and most of us dont drive around in our cars bumping music that plays at 60hz. Most of us daily beaters are tuned in the 25hz- 45hz range. So a amp that is rated at said 60 hz that is being used on a system that plays rap music in the 30hz frequency range isnt going to as much power as it could at 60 hz. I even seen some tests on the big sound digital amp, and the person who tested it claimped like 13 or 14 thousand watts from the amp at a benchtest, but he also played a 100hz tone!! Sure that power is great and all, but its a useless benchmark to any of us that are tuned low.

Really all you know is what your speakers at like the one guy said. If you have a dual 4 ohm woofer wired in series, its 8 ohms, if its wired in parallel (both positives and both negatives wired together) its at 2 ohm. If you parallel two dual 4 ohm drivers together it will be a 1 ohm load, if you series them together it will be 16 ohm load, if you series/parallel the 2 drivers together it will be at 4 ohm. Tho that really doesnt answer your question at all, and I dont think the ohms law will help much at all if any for your main question of "what ohm load is your amp at?" Tho you may have your amp wired at 1 ohm it rarely ever plays 1 ohm. The ohm load of a driver (subwoofer, tweeter, midbass, midrange, etc) is a variable. When the driver moves the ohm load is constantly changing. So your setup that is wired at 1 ohm is actually being played anywhere from 1 ohm to 5 ohms (maybe even higher)!!! If you take a DMM (digital multimeter) and set it to display ohms and connect it to a speaker you will see the impedance/ohm of said voicecoil. Now if you tap on your speaker or move the cone you will see that number (ohm load) change. The same thing happens everytime the driver moves forwards and backwords, thus changing the ohm load your amp is playing at. You see people claiming 10,000 20,000 25,000 30,000 wrms etc. That is not the case at all. All they are doing is adding the RMS value of their amps together at a said ohm load. They are not including the variable change of the woofers impedance. In reality there amp(s) are probolly doing half that rated rms power on a daily beating system that plays music. A example is my buddies Honda CRX. They have 2 12 inch woofers, and 1 cactus 12kw amp. Its rated at 12000wrms by 1 @ 1 ohm, but when they clamp the amp to see the actual power it makes after impedance rise, it only does 5900wrms. But it still burps a 156.5db legal. Then you have box/impedance rise. Depending on the size of your box, how your box is built yada yada yada, effects the ohm load your amps play at too making your amps put out even less power. All these is is part of the reason I build my boxes on the larger side (larger then manufacture specs) to help fight impedance rise to get more power from my amp(s) and to make the driver more efficient (louder with less power). But if you ever heard people saying they run their Sundown SAZ-3000D amps daily at .5 ohms without problems, its because of impedance rise which constantly changes and is almost always higher then the woofers impedance. There is something else I wanted to say, but it totally slipped my mind now. Oh well, I think I covered most of it.

Ugh sundowns and AQ are both rated at the 14.4 volts testing voltage. Sundown 3500 http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/prod.../saz-3500d.html Audioque 2200 http://www.audioque.com/aq/AQamps2200D.htm I also tested a SAZ-3000d vs one of my SPL Dynamics ext-3000ds, and the sundown made about 560 some clamped watts less then my spl (with voltage well above 14 volts wired at .75ohm, 1.5 ohm after rise). Both are great amps however, Id go with whichever amp(s) you can get cheaper

Not many people run the subs. Never seen any really decent numbers with them If you search PAP over all the forums, they dont get to great of reviews either.

I dont think its the extra 24$ a year, At least from my understanding is the service is not what it once use to be and the price keeps rising for less service. Ive also noticed that this fall, since the middle of September, I havent been able to get reception after 10pm or so.. No idea if its something to do with the earth position or what, but I never had the issue before.

Its been said 100s of times not to mount your amps on the outside of the box, so it should be granted that the inside would be just as bad. bass makes vibration, vibrations rattle things. the slightest movement on the amps pc boards is enough to break the legs off of the mosfets that are either screwed or spring clipped to the heatsink. Once the mosfet legs snap you have a fried amp.

If the 3500s are like the 3000s, the amps will do more power without the remote knob. Just an idea to try, then just control your amps volume with the subwoofer control on your headunit, or buy the pac lc1 and control the amps volume with that. It plugs into your RCA cords and has a rca input and output. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5260_PAC+LC1.html

They are designed for Ipods and Iphones. The Apple products run a different headphone jack configuration versus traditional products like a discman, or a zune, or even a pc. Anyways. On my PC, I use Sony MDR-V700

Haha.. Glad my XM is free!! Tho they are changing that too. We got a "demo" account at the shop, we allowed to have 7 or 8 XM radio subscriptions on it I think. But now that they changed it we cant change tuner id numbers or something I guess if I remember right. I personal dont think the 13.95 a month is worth it. Yea you get TONS of channels.... But its not what it use to be.. Before the buy out, I feel the competition was better (kinda like the Directv vs Dish Network, vs Cable). Now its just monoplized, some stations transmit in lower quality audio vs others. It almost seems like the bandwidth is saved for the more popular stations at peak hours, then the quality goes back to poo. Also you got to pay $2 extra a month if you Stream online over so many hours a month I guess (found this out because I use the app on my HTC Celly when I sleep) tho I got that time limit over road because our account type. I only listen to a few channels on it. Mostly the rap/r&b/old school/ and the VIRUS. Cant miss out on my O&A.. EDIT: Forgot to mention that "commercial free" isnt like it once was "pre buyout".

I Pick The Ninja One.. Ninja FTW

oh man!!! Those things be rocking!! Them the ones with the blue Led's so they light up blue... BALLIN!!! I seen them at walmart and almost bought all new speakers for my hoe for under $80!! I just dont see them keeping up with 150deebeez..

Ill stick with Enyce, Coogi, and Ecko.

Ya, thats what Im saying too!! That why I said meca has more competitors this year then both dbdrag and usaci combined. haha

Is 12 cubes including port displacement? and is that all the room you have to work with?