audiofanaticz

jeez you go afk from chat for 10-15 minutes to talk to someone about box designs and you go back and your banned... I mean you could of at least kicked me, or banned me for zero minutes. Its now been about a half hour and I still cant get in. I even tried callin you but either you changed your number or I dialed the wrong number. LOL So unbann me pls homie

www.futurevisionhids.com Or scroll down on the main forum. Mention your a smd member and get a 10% discount. They are by far the best sets Ive had yet, and one of the cheapest besides two 60$ kits that crapped out not even a month later.

DD always had great customer service for me, and thats one of the reasons Ive ran their subs for the past 7 years. And what DC sub is prob cheaper then what DD sub. Both companies offer a wide varity to your audio needs. DC lvl 1, lvl 2, lvl 3, lvl4, lvl 4xl, lvl 5. DD 500, 1500, 2500, 3500, 9100, 9500, 9500Z, Z Not including their component/coaxle speakers. Both companies offer competitor discounts, and most shops that sell DD will sell them at a "MAP" price which is way less then retail. DC offers painted dustcaps... DD offers color composite kevlar cones, carbon fiber cones, stock paper cones. 4 or 5 different size carbon fiber dustcaps as well as colored carbon fiber dustcaps. DC has limited options in coil configurations (dual 2 or dual 4 ohm) that im aware off. DD offers many coil configurations which makes it easy to fight impedance rise to get the most power out of your amp(s). Quad and Dual voice coils in .5 ohm, 1 ohm, 1.5 ohm, 2 ohm, 4 ohm. DC's wood grain. DD's wood grain Not to mention their other custom built woofers here http://www.ddaudio.com/dd/gallery_ddcustoms.asp

Theres only a few here on this site with dd, So your answers are already going to be biased. Everybody seems to be about FI and DC. But DD is my vote. For many reasons.

Oh and ty. I dont know who you where looking at buying the 700.1 from. But a local competitor has one for sale too. his name he goes by is irchke or somthing simular. He wants $875 shipped for it. so maybe you could get his amp and this other 700.1 you found and have some killer power Heres his forsale thread on our promoters site. http://www.soundmekanix.com/2007Website/Fr...age2007new.html

Lol. But yea boon, theres things about the amp that DD feels they can improve on, I can say effiency and heat is 2 things, I know more things but I cant say too much. The new amps should only be about 2 months out or so, maybe longer but it sounded like its comming soon. tho so you can still get your dd amps boon They did have a few left I thought they said tho.

Just recently, that is the newer 8800wrms+ amp he has that he just recently bought. Not sure what he paid for it, but matt didnt use his long at all, and his asking price is a few hundo above cost. very good price. He a pretty striaght up guy, I never bought from him but he is a local comptitior in my state. He had a bunch of ab 500.1s for sale and 2 700.1s I think too.

aww mang that sucks.

x2 Depending on what model it actually is ill buy it from you tuesday. But being used the most id pay is 800$ + shipping for it.

Also, What z2 amp do you have? Becasue theres 3 different models. Theres a older z2 that came out with the z1, the z1 was a low volt model for 12v setups, the z2 was a 16 volt model for 18v setups. Then you have the newer z2's that recently went out of production. You have the z2lv(low volt) and the z2hv(high volt) The one that makes the most power (8800+wrms @ 1 ohm) is the dd z2lv (recently discontinued).

Otherwise you got this option too... Buy 2 new z2 amps, but youd have to wait for a minute. From what I know of the current model z2 is no longer being made, and dd is looking into new things, higher effienctcy ratings and other crap which the overseas build house is not wanting to do.. But sometime with in a couple months (give or take) they will have the new models out... I run DD, and american bass.. From my expierence AB sucks, yes they put out power, but they are not a reliable amp imo I dont think Ill never buy again. Im starting to rate them just a little better then hifonics.

x2 And to add to it a step farther. Your music must be commerically availble to anyone and everyone.. It dont matter if you illegally downloaded it and put it on your mp3 player, just as long as every average joe has access to it.

I would not strap a AB 700.1 with a DD Z2 The same boards dont mean much. Im pretty sure both amps come from different build houses (since I believe dd amps are built in europe now), and both amps are going to have different parts with different tolerences on the parts.

also, make sure to check the input/output size on the current eq if he is getting a new one or watever. I know alot of pa stereos are 1/4 inch plugs I wanna say for your amp signal cables, but then you look at some mixers/eq's and they are only rca outputs/inputs, sometimes they have both for inputs/outputs. But make sure to check what the current setup is and what he orders, if needed adapter cables can be bought to go from 1 style to the other, or be made simple enough too

eq and mixer are too different things. A eq equalizes the audio levels. the higher band count the more precise sound you can get. A mixer is made for fading 2+ audio signals together with the ability to adjust each audio signals volume and fade song to song etc. You can buy both at Pro Sound and Stage lighting. I delt with them alot when i was younger messing with home audio and special effect lighting. www.pssl.com Also Another good brand I really liked was carvin, There prices are cheaper on most things then your standard brand name audio gear, but the quality is top notch. http://www.carvinguitars.com/proaudio.php Otherwise as far as mixers. Stay away from gemini, stanton but behringer and numark is a tad better, but the cheapest Id personally go would be american dj or american audio whatever they call themselfs now, just for reliabilty reasons. Otherwise you got denon, rane, and pioneer that make some kick ass mixers as well as a few others but been outta the game for a while. You can get a basic mixer around 150$ or even spend upwards of 1500, it depends on the features needed for the application. Some mixers also have built in EQs too, but there only 7-11 band eqs, where as a rack mount eq is usally 15-30bands per channel for something decent.

I dont remember the exact way it goes, but I think theres one wire to the ebrake and 1 wire that goes to neautral safty switch. But Ive never rigged a install together for a paying customer with switches. Its not professional on our end. We just sell the modules with the headunit and hook them up right off the bat if wanted. This keeps customers from comming back wanting video playback and complaining or them going in their dash and possibly messing something up. And then you got some headunits like kenwoods and select pioneers that work with just grounding out the wire and then you never have to do nothing with it again. but then theres other pioneers that you gotta do a physical mod to that cant be undone voiding warranty.

it will work if you do the toggle switch idea to simulate you actually hitting the brake and what not, but once you shut the car off it is disabled again. So next time you start your car and decided you want video playback your going to have to flip switches again to simulate the brake action again. The bypass is only 20$, and it does the flipping of the switches automatically everytime you start the vehicle (so you will have instant video playback when ever you want) without having to flip toggle switches on and off. Thats why I said the switches is a ghetto way to do it, and yes it works, but only until the car is turned off because there is no sort of memory for it. plus with the switches you gotta put them someplace and what not.

The thing with the toggle is, everytime you shut off the car your going to have to redo the sequnence to get it to play a movie or video, so your only tricking the headunit until you shut your vehicle off. then back to flipping switches.. You will get annoyed soon with it, and your just better off getting the pac tr-7 for the $20 it costs... unless you prefer the ghetto style installs http://www.pac-audio.com/instructions/TR-7.pdf http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5257_PAC+TR-7.html

your going to have to buy the bypass from pac. Grounding of the nuteral safety wire only works on some screens.

ehh.. just a lil fyi for the op. This will delete all numbers and pics installed apps etc that you installed on the phone. I did this one night when i was drunk and yea.. I got kinda mad!! haha

woot... nice to see you used your certified expierence to help him. Are you running a bypass kit? what year blazer? Most likely you need a xpresskit to bypass passlock on the gm. this is for remote start. i dont know if you got one or not, but if you dont that is your problem. If you do have one, what bypass are you using?? id recommend a pljx because they are self programing, no need to add resistors and what not. and if you mess up on programming the bypass isnt fucted like some of the other xpresskits. what do you mean with ign 3? I dont even think you need ign 2, you should be fine with ign 1 but id have to look at the directwire sheet to be sure.

I had a htc ppc6800 a lil over a month, returned it because it was outdated and got the htc touch pro and love it!! You may want to goto "start>settings>system>task manager" then click on stop all. So far these programs stay running until you phsyical end them. I dont know if the diamond is uning touchflo 3d or not, but if you got the older style menus the task manager is located under the memory tab and you could end programs from taht instead.

do it mang. the asking price is almost pocket change. and you will easily be able to get your money back. Location is a must for them!!

Nothing seems to speical about it. The keypad seems cool, but dont seem to be too legit. The price is pretty high too. Didnt look like the remote even turned on or lighted up when she "locked" the doors. The remote does look kind of cool. Id stick with directed personally. My Clifford 50.7 has everything that alarm has and then some feature wise. And there are a few directed 2 way alarm/remote starts you can get for around $350 installed. One thing i cant seem to find out about it is what does it use for a bypass kit. Almost every newer vehicle needs a bypass for one thing or another. I dont see no kits avaible, or if they are using xpresskit bypass's or if there is no need for them at all with their product (which would be cool) Another thing I do not see is additional sensors for added security. glass breakage sensor, proximity sensor, digital tilt sensor, window/doors open/close modules. Too say they are number 1 is very far fetched in my belief.

I dunno, but I got a good laugh from it. Lol