audiofanaticz

ugh all i see is jensen jensen jensen in that link. No clicky for me!! lol X3 with alpine, you cant go wrong. but you get what you pay for I guess.

no, it dont. going from a rectangular port, to a half rounded port is going to cause issues. Thats like saying your port is 12 inches by 3 inches, then after the bend its 12 inches by 2 inches or 12 inches by 4 inches, its not the same, it will change your square inches of port, and make it very hard to tune to your desired freq.

I see it working fine, but it will be a lot of work. Hopefully you have a pretty accurate way to calculate tuning. My other concern would be the back port wall, how it is flat, I think this may not only make it hard to tune the box with a curved side and flat side port, but change port velocity Tho it does look very bad ass! I just think it be a lot of work.

I did mine with both front windows down, or driver door open with both windows down

Are these metra installation kits? What kits do you have for gm and chevy? edit, nevermind i see best kits too just needing kit numbers

damn galatic monkey may have finally got loud! Bet that shit pounds like a mofo!! Altho he had to have mr hoproblems build it.

yea id agree. having your boss as a witness is like having a friend as a witness, to the court they may think that my friend/boss could be bending the truth a bit to suite my needs. But like I said, Im going to try to talk to the state patrol guy my friend works for. Try to get some more indepth info on the laser guns, that the average person wouldnt know.

yea, its just a laser scrambler, dont believe it does ka or any other bands. but it is 100% legal here in WI. This is the unit my boss gave me. I dont usally use them for speeding, more less cruising in town when Im beating, usually by the time the cop hits you with his radar you have enough time to turn the stereo down before that cop clocking people can hear you You can never rely in a radar detector to save you from speeding tickets, this is why I only do 30mph in 25s, and 75 in 65mph. unless your going more then 12 over your usally fine. I had some cheap 20 walmart cobra in my caddy that didnt even pick up laser but I never got a sound ticket If I can get the ticket dropped by 2mph less then auctual speed Ill be happy because it drops me to the 10-15mph over the limit which is only normally a 180$ ticket and 2 points. But im willing to pay the $246 still just wnat less points. I just think the cop got the car that was in front of me that went into the left lane to pass the same semi I went to pass after he did, and he was going a bit faster then I, and from what I can tell by looking at this one guys youtube videos, the lasars have a scope and its very hard to tell 1 vehicle from 3 other vehicles pretty close together and be able to pinpoint which one is doing what speed wheen your a good 2000 feet away from them. The cop left the over pass and was on the on ramp way before we even went under the bridge he was clocking from. Just sucks because its in another county about a hour a way that Im going to have to drive to, to fight the ticket.

And thats the type of radar dector i have. It is a scrambler, only thing is, they only offer that ticket paid ticket for a year, and its older then a year. So thats no option. Its not the money Im worried about, its the 4 point ticket that will raise my car insurance way more then a 2 point ticket. I got no problem paying the ticket. But Im already dropping almost $900 every 6 months for insurance on the Hoe. Im gonna try and get ahold of this other state trooper thats been on the force for 47+ years. My friend does car repairs for him part time. Ive helped him out with some repair work so he knows me. Maybe he can fill me in on what this unmarked lasar means. and since he takes his state patrol Tahoe home, I can test out this radar scrambler I have. That be really cool, and if anything Id have a good witness on my side.

Yes, I got nailed for speeding yesterday on my way home from work. I was pulled over, state patrol asked do you know why I pulled you over. I said most likely speeding, 75 in a 65. He says NO! I then asked what for? He said for speeding, 82 in a 65mph. I had a baffled look on my face and my boss and i looked at each other like wtf!?! My ticket is 4 points, $246 fine, and is labled speeding 16-19mph over. Heres my thing. I drive with my cruise on longer drives. I always set it for 75mph never get harrasad for going 10 over, or at least yet. I know it was at 75, and When i seen the cop on the overpass a mile infront of me, I even checked to make sure I was doing the speedlimit. I know my speed-o is dead accurate. Why? because my pioneer dash mount navagation has a speedo in it, and it matches my speedo mph for mph. There was a car in front of me and he was going a bit faster, maybe he clocked that car and thought it was me? I got no idea how they can be so accurate on which car they are hitting. Now here is where it gets good. I have my Boss's old Rocky Mountain Radar (RMR-C450), its almost 2 years old and the boss stepped up to one of the better units out now. And heres the detectors specs # Detects all Radar Bands (X, K, Ka, SuperWide, Instant-On, Pulse) # Detects All Lidar guns (LTI 20-20, Pro-Laser, Laser-Lyte, Stalker) # Scrambles All Radar Bands (X, K, Ka, SuperWide, Instant-On, Pulse) # Scrambles All Lidar Guns (LTI 20-20, Pro-Laser, Laser-Lyte, Stalker) # 360-Degree Laser/Radar Detection # One year Ticket Rebate Program Like I said, I admit I was speeding, but I know wasnt doing 82mph, Ill even take a speeding ticket for 75mph because that was right. Also on my ticket theres a spot that asks how I was clocked, and it says unmarked laser. What does unmarked mean? I going in to get my speedo checked saturday morning at 8am. I highly doubt that both my nav and speedo are off, and it have to be pretty ironic that both are off and read the same speed. but stranger things have happened.

decent fix, altho I think your problem will reoccur pretty soon. Electrical tape aint nothing to thick and if you had problems with rubbing before, its still going to be there and just rub thru the tape. My spl amps have some sort of thicker heat resistant pad it looks like that is really stiff and some what thick. Or use something more absorbant such as sound deadening material (perferbly something without a metal backing like black hush mat).

about 2.5 hours north of Chi in WI, but am back and forth from WI to IL to MN on a pretty consistent basis.

Not the best. But it could be the songs beat that dont flow with the lyrics. Almost reminds me of a freestyle and not a song.

Yea, pretty lame idea.... I guess Ill save money not having to goto any db drag shows this year... midwest spl ftw.. That aint really true, I think you mean CA.com. Theres a few people there that are pretty cool. Donald gave me his number, and some other guy overseas totally told me how to wire my maxxlink different ways that the book didnt show At least on Termpro you really dont see "how loud would these subs be?".

you will most likely have to reset your gain if you turned the bassboost off. That is if you set the gain with the bassboost on to beguin with. the more bassboost you use the less gain you need or vice versa (no boost more gain to achive the proper setting for the amps to do rated power).

updates?

It may, it may not. Just turn it off, its not really needed since the amp will do full power with or without bassboost. Mainly all bassboost will do is add clipping to the amp at full power, and give your music a much dirtier sound, then if there was no bass boost. I was always taught that bass boost will only give you a gain when your volumes where low. Same with any sort of bass boost, loud, or bbe processing on the headunit that gives added bass. Just turn it off. Its not worth cooking your voice coils

Even with your gains set with a dmm, and be at their proper level your headunit can send out a dirty clipped signal, thus in return making your amps clip even with a properly set gain. The only way to find out what your headunit really clips at is with a o-scope. You could unstrap the amps and try it. but if you run them unstrapped with a common chamber box, I highly recommend a hifonics maxx-link. The maxx-link is an all-in-one tool so to speak. It will give you 1 subsonic filter, 1 lowpass crossover, a bass boost with bandwidth and frequency control, and then your using 1 settings for both amps and totally bypass or not use those said settings on each amp. Only thing you will have to physically mess with on the amps is the gain, and you will need that LOW like less then 1/4th up. Otherwise it is very hard to set 2+ amps up idenically to run 2+ subs in a common chamber box. Also if you have any bass boost on the amp, turn it off. Its not needed to be loud

Otherwise try resetting your gains for all your amps to do full rated power at volume 33-35 instead of volume 38-42 (make sure to regain the mids and tweets amp if you have one too otherwise it wont be doing full power while your subs are). Its worth a shot and easier then unstrapping the amps or swaping your master slaves like uhoh said.

aight thats what i kinda figured, but just wanted to be sure, that would sure cause some problems I didnt even realize it till looking at the picture for about 8 minutes.... lol Another thing that i thought about is your headunit could be giving you a clipped signal. I see you got a Kenwood, however on alpines the volume goes from 0 to 35 (and increases by 1), but the radios usally clip around volume 26-30. What does your headunit volume go up too? and what volume is your full tilt?

wait...... is this a old pic? Or do you not have ground wires hooked up on your power input????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

esh all in a probe? I bet that wangs pretty good! Im trying to trace your wires and it looks like your rca's are all correct too. hmm and it looks like all your connections are wired right too on the speaker connections. And if all your settings a properly set that rules that out too. You said you changed your RCA's out already, What rca's did you change out? from headunit to master amp, or master amp to slave amp? I know some amps are picky on rca's. A few amps dont like stinger rca cords. Other then that, id assume a internal problem with the slave amp. Id try unstrapping the amps and run 1 sub per amp at 1 ohm. and if they work fine, then you know something on the output stage or dirver board isnt messed up. Then maybe buy a maxxlink and strap the amps with that, or use them as 1 sub per amp and have the maxxlink to give you equal settings on both amps.

pictures of setup? Also theres no gain, bassboost, etc turned up on the slave amp is there?

yes, they are locally to me in CHI, ive been there cool place, wanna go back. They are now doing their own inhouse repairs that Im aware of, however a few years ago cia engineering is what "was" used most times, unless you just got your amps swapped out for new.

Its all good, I just had a horror story and thought i didnt get what I paid for. Also cia's turn around time is pretty slow, compairable to db-r, but cia's quality of work was not there. Then everytime you called some securtairy chick answered and never seem to know what was going on, maybe they just had a bad filing system, but you almost always had to wait for a return call to figure out what was going on. Theres a few more companies that do decent work from the rumors, but I forgot the names, Im sure you can find them if you search amprepair in the amp forum. But your two top dogs in the repair business seem to be db-r and ARC (amprepaircenter.com). You cant go wrong with either, both offer great customer support, prices, quality repairs.