audiofanaticz

2500wrms or less get a 3500 series 2501wrms or more get a 9500 series

Fact: More cone area does not always equal louder. Fact: Going to a smaller amp rated at a lower voltage does not equal louder.. Theres other things that effect power and loudness all together. voltage is just one, you have impedance rise, port area, box size, tuning. Theres so many variables. There are upgrades you can still do to your current car that will be compatable with new cars. Such as your wiring, batteries, boxes etc.

got to agree...other wise all you are doing is having 2 potential shitty systems, instead of 1 that is way more then halfway decent. Theres lots you could do. buy a good battery, get a 2nd amp, put money towards and alternator, build a more efficient box there is a endless abundant of ideas to try.

yes cuz theres lots of people calling him out it seems. LOL In my video discription theres a link to the caco forum with a thread baout it.

^^^^ LMAO!

That is all! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FR_KP3bCxBU

the op never said what part of his electrial he was wanting to upgrade, nor the stereo setup he planned to run or is already running.. So i just picked the cheapest upgrade to the electrical system the big 3. LOL

oh those are so beautiful!!!

probably need about $30-$45 to upgrade your electrical.. That should give you enough wire and ring terminals to do the big 3 in 1/0 wire...

Lol yea... Too great Started perfect with a 149.8, then seen a 149.9 in the first 2 seconds. got nervous of breaking out, cut her down a lot and too fast, and then turned it back up too late. LOL FAIL!

btw I love my amp and its ungodly power!!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_FmebrN8aY

No, never ever rolled a toyota, but I have a friend we built a box for 2 solo 10s in a 94 corolla firing forward. by the time I was done with the box it almost didnt fit in the trunk. I know from personal experience from a few installs that firing a woofer up, and porting it back in a trunk does not give to great of results unless you cut out the entire rear deck it seems. Maybe that is an option for you. Well then keep doing your "free" box designs, and Ill keep building real boxes that get loud, and put up results on the meter.

Yes they are a legit site. However, you do not have the room to do two 15s in a 92 corolla trunk. The minimum box volume alone for a pair of 15s would take up the entire trunk let alone have room for the woofers to properly load. This is a good example of a pair of 12s out wanging a pair of 15s due to the fact the 12s will have proper box volume and a box that is not as huge so the soundwaves and can escape out the trunk and into the cabin. but this is just my opinion.

I recently clamped 4764rms at .6 with voltage drop to 14.2 and calculated rise to 1.14ohms Its technically wired at 1 ohm but with the dual 1 ohm coils on my 2 mayhem woofers reading .6 I get a little extra power.

Fixed for ya!

nice box!!

I got a sexy American Bass 500.1 chillin on my dinning room table... should push the subs nicely and handle .5 ohms daily and burp at .25 ohms! Just need to have the electrical setup to keep this baby happy! Its in great cosmetic condition, and is a straight up beast in every way shape or form!! LoL 1 x 1400W @ 4 ohms (14.4V - 1% THD) 1 x 2650W @ 2 ohms (14.4V - 1% THD) 1 x 3200W @ 1 ohm (12V - 1% THD) 1 x 4700W @ 1 ohm (14.4V - 1% THD) 1 x 5600W @ 1 ohm (16V - 1% THD) 1 x 7100W @ 1 ohm (18V - 1% THD) Signal to Noise : 85dB Damping Factor : 200 Efficiency : 75%

You either didnt put the pin back in the correct hole or you did not put the pin in far enough to make a connection on the radio. Most likely you did not insert it all the way until you hear/feel the little pin click. They are a pain to insert. I know when I do video bypass's on the screens, I have to use a tiny pick to push the wire fully into the spot for it to latch. Almost all Pioneer harness are the same, unless you start getting into double din screens and flip outs. Just searching the model number on ebay gave me a link with a picture. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=400122815944 http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Photos/Default.aspx?i=130P7000BT&tp=5684 another good shot of a different model with similar features and cost. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictures_new.php?id=22379&picture_id=374551

You may own a term lab, but do you have the show promoters package? That has 2 mics, more advanced software, and a bunch of other crap that comes with it? The show promoter termlab package is NOT CHEAP BY ANY MEANS.. Its more then the normal termlab package of $600(or whatever it is now) by 2-4 times the price I read something that you want to have Wayne make you your own format. To do so you have to pay him money. Your going to be looking at $1000-$3000 to have him put your little icon on his software like the current dbdrag, bassrace, idbl, nasa, usaci, meca icons. There are some organazations out there right now using the generic spl setting on the meter for their shows such as Midwest SPL who have not paid wayne to add their format to the TL. To be honest, your going to have to be very creative on your rules, or else you will have other organizations claiming that you stole their competition formats without permission or paying for the rights too them. So you cant have something like bassrace, and call it bassrace. We recently had an issue with my friend offering SPL Street Shootout, which is a format to get people interested into competiting or just so they know what their spl is, without having to be worried about going against some guy with 4 18s in a wall. Its for the people that dont care about points from db drag, it dont cost the same price as db drag, and it is not sanctioned. All the people do is have 2 back to back 30 seconds runs to get as loud as they can, doors/windows open, music, or test tone, it dont matter. The termlab sensor is just at normal location on the glass, and all they win is a medal for 1st-3rd place, but only costs 10-15$ to meter. But anyways a current competition format thought we where trying to steal their ideas and put our name on it so we had to change the name because we used the word shootout which is used in a different format that is listed on the TL for different types of shows. So far I think Ed had the best advice about doing normal sanctioned shows of another format such as (db drag, idbl, meca, usaci,etc)and then trying to do your own format. My close friends does Db Drag and Bassrace for about 5 years now, He just picked up Meca a 2 months ago, and so far he has maybe had 2-6 cars run meca at each show he offered it at along side of db drag, when he has 30-60 cars that do db drag or bassrace or both at the same time. Sometimes competitors dont want to switch formats, and if they do, they sure dont want to goto something new that has nothing to offer, or even know that it will last more then a year. Competitors do not like change. Hence why you see so many leave the competition lanes upon rule changes that are for the worse! Wayne likes his money, any competitor will tell you this!

Murilo seems like a straight up guy that would not steer you wrong. I had the luxury of meeting and talking to him when he came to a local comp that was a very long long drive for him. So I guess til you personal see his amps being put to use, or hear them its one of those things that its hard to believe, but they are pretty damn good yo!

Haha. wows I get love on smd Thanks guys Pretty shitty bday thus far. well not bad, just a long day full of work followed by working in the hot heat on a new box to try out.. But im off friday so the party beguins then!! Head outta town to some buddies house hit up the bars and clubs and a db drag comp. Should turn out to be aight!

^ I bought 4 sets of cables from megaloman, and a single short rca for strapping my amps.. 2 rcas where built very nice, the other 2 sets where rushed thru, and had the center pin touching the outer ring (ground). The 2 good cables where all heat shirnked nice and good to make sure the center pin wire would never ground out) the other 2 sets where just soldered shitty and had frayed wires shorting the cables out. To put it simple, I blew the input on a pair of amps.

^^^ Another place to check would be Jegs too. Usually carry the same as summit racing, but from time to time one or the other company may have a sale, or be priced cheaper. Also another alternative would be KeyStone. They are a giant wholesaler to stores, I know we deal with them, as well as advanced auto parts store, they have a very thick catalog full of all kinds of shit, you could stop in at advance to check it out im sure, last time I checked their website was to retailers only and you had to be a member.

Oh... You made it sound like he is some big shot drag racer.. LOL That be like buying your stereo from autozone or walmart and thinking your king kong instead of buying a real woofer that wont blow up in a week, and will actualy take its rated power, unlike the BS ratings the speakers you buy from autozone, or walmart have. Autometer, Dakota Digital, and other race proven companies have higher prices on their products for a reason, reliablity, and very exact measurments for whatever the guage monitors. It be like buying spinner hubcaps for $30 instead of buying spinner rims that cost $2000+. When you look at it, they both spin, but 1 is by far a better product... Get what you pay for I guess, not my car to pimp out with cheap no name garbage, so whatever.. Lol

Most RCA cables that have the wire in the middle is usually not meant for a remote, it is meant as an additional way to shield the rca's (at least this was the case with some older Stinger, Monster, and Street Wire RCA Cables). Im not 100% sure if its still the same now days, but in all honesty its not worth spending the extra money on a rca cable with a piece of remote wire ran with it. Either way you got to remove trim panels to run the rca cables, it wont take much longer to run a separate remote wire at the same time, and its not like a 20foot piece of 12-16 gauge wire is going to be all that expensive.. Probably like .15-.50 cents a foot.