jonathancullen89

im a sucker for cone area, but re's are sexy xD. id say mt with a shit load of power just because people will be impressed when your keeping up with multiple subwoofer setups with a single 12". i think the t1's would have better sq tho, im not sure but i always put an mt with spl.

i like smd, doesnt matter if it relates to me or not. it would be totaly wierd to type in a different url and end up here. im the type of person that doesnt like change unless its louder lol.

where the hell do you get all these HU's rofl. ur sellin a different one once a week. gl with sale bro, if you get a flip out HU let me know ill get it asap.

i didnt know that, i just thought rusty was cool like that lol. rusty waitin on you bro

a cheap power acoustik amp, thats what they will tell you. or hifonics, crunch.

it could be an input? i had one like that on the back of my pioneer HU and bought a cable on ebay for like 7 bucks. bump for my man, hope it helps with sale. gl with sale bro btw if u look in the manual it should say what the model number on that cable is xD

rofl baby got pissed

resin i assume, im pritty sure it would stick. i dont have a router so cutting all those holes with a jig saw is going to be a PITA. also i could prolly make metal the way i wanted it easier then wood. looking for more feedback on the subject please. will steel work?

would this be able to take 1500wrms daily?

i have never fiberglassed before, but i was wondering if i could make the frame out of steel? i have access to a plasma cutter and welder and figured it would be easier and stronger to make the frame out of steel. any down side to this? will it work? thanks

if you have a hatch go with bigger subs. size doesnt matter for what kind of music you listen to, its all in the box. an 18" can be used for rock, that doesnt matter. if you want loud in a hatch it is very possible, if i where you id go with two 12" or two 15". my last hatch was a 91 celica and i had four 12" in there. gl

ahhhh no need for caps man ur scaring me!

rofl emailed to the women!

a level 4 8" would be crazy. what ever happend to the level 1? i want to put a 10 in each door but dont want to pay the price of a level 2 for em.

so ur dad heard about steve meade? or is that him? im confuzed need more details!

i had p2's and loved em. they lasted about 2 years then one blew. excellent sub tho.

i already have xD, but i think it might look better with one 10", 1 -6 1/2", and like a 4"

i dont want it to look like overkill. i just want it to sound nice. this is going to be my first attempt at fiberglassing so im sure ill have to make a couple of them.

rofl, dont forget 4 of them for the remote. but yeah i think im pritty set on the 10 in the door. the hoopty is sexy even when u see the doors.

no silocone!! if just the spider came un-attached and it didnt hurt anything then go get urself a good epoxy and glue it back on.

when u say that i think of that one guy with the truck and like 60 tweeters all over the dash

rofl i just want it to look clean, im doin re speakers/mids/highs. with dc subs. i was thinking about maybe building a center councle and putting the 10's in the center, or possible even 12's. with another pair of 6 1/2 facing the rear two seats.

im doing 8 or 12 15" dc level 2. also the 10" are cheaper and IMO look nicer and cleaner then the re8's. otherwise i would have just put 8"s in the doors.

btw these are going in a chevy astro. its not for the cavy i dont have the room for even an 8 in the cavy. finkster u think it would be to big in an astro door?

im starting to get a list together of all the shit i need for my next build. im just wondering if im going overbored with the front doors. each would have one RE 10" subs and two sets of RE 6.5" coaxles. do you think this will look stupid in a door? i can get it to fit with a little fiberglassing but is it 2 much?