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Everything posted by Chaise
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How would i get this? (GRILL)
Chaise replied to Winn's topic in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
If your Exploder is anywhere near as reliable as mine, I wouldn't spend very much on it. Cheap rims and some ebay grill will do nicely. -
AQ-1200D..the one I have now. New guy here. Lol I'm sure most of you know what an AudioQue amp looks like...
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THREE HUNDRED?? USD? Damn I have unlimited texting and 450 minutes (I'll be lucky to use 50 of those minutes in a month) for 60 bucks a month. I don't use internet and even if I did, it's just be an additional 10 bucks. EDIT: Stick with verizon. That coverage chart thing they use is the truth. My parents have AT&T(on iPhones) and they say the coverage isn't the best.
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Mechman Website, now live.
Chaise replied to Mark LaFountain's topic in MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories
Sweet. Been looking to get a HO alt. Will def check this site out. EDIT: I can call/e-mail yall to get price quotes for an alt in my Scion, right? -
Kranny's Second 150+db Demo
Chaise replied to a topic in Member Videos - Host 'em & Post 'em! System Vids / Off Topic
I've sat in Chode's Durangho when he had it cranked up. 150+ on two 18s is definitely something. Can feel it in your chest fo sho. -
I'd download it if someone gave it some bass...
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2007 Scion tC. 4 Gauge power wire ran from front battery, through a hole in the fire wall that was already there (from the factory). It then goes down behind a panel in the drivers kick, and under some trim next to the door. From there it goes behind some trim that covers the rear speaker. Next, it goes behind the rear seats, and into the styrofoam area that has my amp. The ground wire just goes from the amp to a bolt on the chassis behind some of the carpeting, rear of the amp. The RCA runs from the HU, through the upper part of the passenger kick, behind the same trim pieces mentioned before, but instead of going behind the seats, it just goes straight to the amp. The remote wire follows the same path as the power wire. Except it starts at the HU of course. The wire is from a RF amp install kit that came with 15ft of power wire and like 2 feet of ground wire. I think the RCA cable was about 12 feet or so. I used every inch of it. EDIT: That hole in the firewall is at the top behind a bunch of random shit. You can fit your hand in there is you have skinny girl hands like me. You have to get your head down near the intake to really see it and I could only manage to work blind as I couldn't look at it and work at the same time. I'll post info on wire needed for the big 3 once I do it next week. If you are going to use anything bigger than 4 gauge, I recommend finding an alternate path than the one above as I have a hard time trying to squeeze the 4 gauge under some of the trim panels. I'm sure you could route it through the center console with out any problems though.
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DC Neos TEARING UP the Durangho
Chaise replied to Chode69's topic in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
Nice roof flex man. hah Shit is loud as hell in person. -
Funny Subaru WRX ad on Craigslist A friend of mine showed this to me and I just thought I'd post it here so ya'll can have a good laugh. Lol. This guy is honest and I wanna meet him. haha
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This is also a very good point. Thanks for bringing it up Alex cause I meant to say it but forgot. More or less, it's not worth getting a battery that is not meant for car audio. Ones like XS, Kinetik, Shuriken, etc are all designed to be spill-proof and won't leak. Anything else is for under the hood. Plus, walmart and autozone or w/e are not meant for the stresses that we put on batteries. They will most likely just die or do something stupid like catch on fire or something . Stick to specific use batteries and you will be fine. I am definitely not going to get a Wal-Mart battery. I know enough that those just don't cut it. big 3 yes, cap NO! a cap will do damage to your system, and it will never ever replace a battery .....what I wasn't looking into getting a cap since I work with a guy who has one and he still has significant headlight dimming. He's a big time car guy so my guess is everything is hooked up right so the cap just isn't good enough. I also said wat. Lol
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If my step dad doesn't have one sittin around his garage, I can get one at Wal-Mart for like 12 bucks. No big deal.
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Big 3, got it. I don't know what my voltage measurement is however I do have a stinger voltage meter coming in the mail so I'll definitely have a better look at what is going on with my electrical system. I'll definitely look into the big 3 a bit more and start ordering the parts I need. I have also been looking into alternators, but like you, I'm not made of money so I don't really want to dish out $600 on top of everything else I'm buying. As for revving the engine up, the dimming is still fairly noticeable so a HO alt would probably be best.
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Well it's official, the lights in my car now dim to the beat of my subwoofers (if they're up enough, of course). I know about the battery guides advising which battery is best for the amount of power you're running, but my question is a bit different. Would my dim problem be solved with just an upgraded battery under the hood or would it be smart to get one under the hood, and a secondary one in the back? I'd rather not put an extra one in the back right now, but I will if it comes down to it.