mrd6

Even though the raw wire may be half the cost, you also need to factor in fuse holders and terminals. I've ran the numbers and found that they have roughly the same cost/performance ratio after taking that into consideration. If you don't run fuses, that's a different story. But I wouldn't suggest that I'm with you there Chris, I guess I'm just still waiting to hear why it is "not okay." What I m trying to get at is, if our goal is simply the best transmission possible, two runs of CCA is actually better than a single run of OFC (based on transmission losses alone and the resistance values Tony uses in his example, this is a fact). So, if they are approximately the same price, even after factoring in fuses and terminals etc (difference in the tens of dollars, not hundreds) and two runs of CCA is the better conductor, why would you want to buy OFC unless you are limited in wire runs by the class or orginization you compete in or have physical limitations in your specific build? ^This is the question I hope Tony answers (if there is a different answer than what I have come up with). I feel like everyone here already understands that a single run of OFC will beat a single run of CCA. While I do believe it is great that he is showing the math and explaining the physics so that everyone can be on a level playing field for understanding what is going on in their charging system, I hope their is more to his assertion that CCA is "not okay" than the simple fact that in a one - to - one comparison OFC has lower losses...

the man is teaching you the difference. You need to have your pencil and note pad out. I also think you should show some respect. He hasn't posted any smart ass comments your direction. Not in exactly my direction no. More of a blanket statement involving everyone who runs CCA, uses the term "box rise," or uses a class D amp and calls it "better." Here is the thing, I am all for knowing the science and math, but I am also wise enough to know that in practice the gains or losses are minute. I hate to sit here and watch people hear everything said by him and take it as gospel. And don't get it wrong, I respect Tony, but I won't have people thinking that there is only one way to do something and that if they aren't doing it that way they are wrong. There's always more than one way to do something. Some better than others. Often with any product there are good better and best versions. The man is teaching the ideal way, or best way of doing things. His ways aren't the only way, but why would you show someone how to do something in an inferior way? I feel like I learn something every time I watch one of his videos. Then why is he not talking about silver 1/0?? It is a much better conductor after all Or two runs of CCA for that matter since it would result in lower transmission losses than a single run of OFC...two runs of CCA has a resistance of .085mohms per foot according to the values Tony was working off of...so if CCA is half the cost, wouldnt two runs of CCA actually be superior to one run of OFC by the exact same logic that one run of OFC is greater than one of CCA? Thats always been my logic on the matter...i'll stay tuned to see if Tony has any other reasons for his statement that it is "not okay," there must be something else to it that I am just not thinking of...?

Basing this off of a buddy of mine who just did a setup with the z4s on the same power and it seems to be working well

All depends on your application. Thermally we all know that they can take a lot more clean power than they are rated for. But if you aren't confident in your box or experienced enough to know when you are pushing it too much i would say a single 2500 would be a great match

Guy is full of shit

4119

Any ts parameters for these? How will these do free air in a typical car door install?

Careful with that^ if you're worried about musicality and a flat response I wouldnt build so oversized

^If that is the case then the stock wire probably has a very poor connection or is not connected at all. If everything is running well with the 1/0 the I honestly wouldnt worry about it. Everything is working fine.

You are saying that if you dont connect your alt positive to your battery then it wont charge...........duh? haha sorry man maybe I misunderstood

Nate took the words right out of my mouth. No one cares...this thread is old as fuck and its clear your only goal is to try to show off whatever little bit of knowledge it is you think you have, when all you are talking about is basic interference patterns like its some impressive shit lol. Post some of your work up so we can tear it apart from a technical standpoint, sounds like fun to me but quit cluttering this thread and start your own. Let us all be witness to your audio godliness

Just clicked the link, anyone else think its sketchy that they have a "discontinued" in green next to a green check mark? Kinda misleading haha

If you never plan to upgrade power, 4 sa12 on that 3k will be nice

Sounds cool! I already caught a typo tho :/ watts not walls I'm assuming haha

what is your reasoning for making the ports longer in getting the 15 over the 18? I would probably do the 15 and leave it the same for now. Then change if necessary.

^True but the harmonics issue can still be there and then with the lower gain factor of a small ratio they aren't really any louder than they would be in a regular ported or sealed alignment so it kinda defeats the purpose lol

For a true full SQ setup I would shy away from any bandpass enclosures unless you plan on having other drivers that will also play the same frequency range. The reason for this is that due to the nature of how bandpasses work they do a great job at reproducing the fundamental frequencies but tend to filter out the harmonics of notes. It is the harmonics of specific instruments that give them their realism and specific sound signature. If you lose these you will lose alot of detail in your low end....just thought I would throw that out there for your consideration. If you arent dead set on a 4th, consider going another direction...

Psh looks quiet! lol

Thanks for taking me to school lol. I'm glad someone else chimed in to help bc box designs give me a headache, and I know net to nothing about 4th's. I just read him DC's specs. Haha yeah, there are a few ways to design 4ths. This is the way I have read to go about it and it has turned out some great results in the 4ths I have built. You need to test it. There really is no way to guess perfectly. If I were building this system I would build a big sealed box say 3 cubic feet after displacement of a single 15. Put the level 3 in the box and measure the sealed resonance. It will probably be too low. So then shrink the box by some known quantity, for example say shrink it down to 2 cubes. Then measure it again, this time it might be too high so you know you will need more airsplace so you try 2.25 cubes next. Basically keep going back and testing like that until you nail down the sealed resonance that you want. The easiest and most accurate way to take the sealed resonance is with an SMD IM-SG, you can hook it up to the terminals and it will read out the resonance on the screen, doesn't get much better than that haha. Once you have the sealed size for 1 15 just multiply it by 6 of course and thats what you've got. Higher motor force subs generally can get a low enough resonance in smaller enclosures, so a level 3 will probably need a larger box.

Look at tuning lower then around 43hz, with a 2:1 ratio you should crush that frequency range and still have a nice roll off up in the mid 50hz area. You want your sealed chamber to be whatever size causes it to have a sealed resonance the same as your tuning. Or another way of looking at it, you want your sealed impedance peak to be at your tuning frequency. Some box building software will be able to get a good estimate on what size sealed enclosure that would be but imo if youre investing this much into the build I would build up a small test sealed enclosure for one of the 15s and measure it until you find the correct size sealed per 15. It will probably be around 2 cubes but even being .25 cubes off in eaither direction can hurt your output by a few dbs. So be ready to test!

What do you consider low? Like 28hz or 20hz lol. Do you care about numbers at all?

The size of your sealed side has to do with what you want to tune the 4th to and your ratio and goals etc...

So, since this info seems to be non-existant...I would love it if any of you running the new lvl 5 18s could run the parameters for one of these and post it up here. My m1 xls are reaching their limits with the power I am throwing at them and I would like to be able to upgrade to the new 5s if the parameters are what i am looking for. Anyone at DC could do this too! Seems kinda weird that no one has actually haha Thanks in advance!

Care to elaborate on this a bit? Haha maybe I misunderstand what you are saying but who wouldn't need a way to mount their amps?

Looks clean, no visible mounting feet...are they hidden behind removable side panels?