Kevin M

how much do you want to bet that everything you just said went over this guy's head? thats why I didnt go into great detail. I still think a full detailed explanation could help. If he has questions about it he can always ask.

Subbed. Sent you another response to that window flex video. Can someone send him that gorilla zoe "Shut em down" Chopped and screwed? I have no idea how to do that and would like to see a vid of it. Thank you.

The xover point depends on a few things. Wattage and the slope of the x-over being the most important. You could run them all the way to 3k if you were running them under rms with a slope like 18 or 24db/ octave. If you are running them with 100 watts the eminence xover should be fine at 12db/octave. I run selenium compression drivers down to 1k but I have them on half rms and active 24db/octave. These tweets are incredibly efficient 111 db and get stupid loud with a small amount of wattage. You will need a lot of cone area or some pro audio mids to keep up with them. Those bose won't begin to keep up. Too much difference in sensitivity. You could cross them at 8 or 10 k but you will need another tweeter that played up to around 16k and lacked a little of that shimmer that people like. That is why people use supertweeters in home audio and some car audio setups.

I put the wrong link up lol

A-pillars? link http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-812

I will be there.

When you hear a well tuned horn setup it will be hard to go back to a conventional 2 or 3 way. They are a pain in the ass to mount, expensive, and need eq but they are worth it. They were all the rage with the sq cats back in the nineties but it is hard to find any info on them now. What ID horns do you have? Is it just the lenses are did you buy them complete

I use an mbquart onyx 4.60 "active" and have the horns crossed at 1000hz (24db) I think there is another person on the forum who uses them remember their name. When installing them you want them as far apart and as deep under the dash as they can go. They use the whole bottom of the dash as a giant waveguide. I used the full size ID horn bodies due to my center console. They also play a little lower than the minis. They do have some peaks as I mentioned in the video. You can get awawy with a 15 band eq or even a seven like me but a 1/3 octave will really help them shine. They have tremendous output on low power and most of the peaks are in the vocal range. The compression drivers I use (Selenium 2500ti) are 8 ohm so they only see 30 watts which is more than enough. I have the 10" in the doors on 240 watts and they match up pretty well. The wall is on 1500 watts as well It is pretty well rounded and I have no problem playing nickle creek or waka flocka. I am replacing the door speakers with a 12" selenium pro mid which has a higher 1w/1m. If you use a 6 or 8 " you will need a gaggle of wattage to keep up with the horns. Here are a couple x-over points to look at. Horns 1000hz (24db) -20k Midbass 80-1000 (24db) Subbass 80hz -20hz Follow thi tutorial. to make them really outstanding. So in this order - put one side out of phase Horn and midbass driver - listen and try reversing both horns polarity phase to lift sound stage - balance left - t/a left mid only until it lifts up as high as possible then mirror that setting to other side - then balance center - t/a left horn and mid together until it shifts center no more than .5 millisecond - EQ left and right separately as the lower midrange / upper mid bass area 160 to 400 hz range can really lower our stage height. If you dont have an RTA try these settings 125 - 3dB 160 -9dB 200 -6dB 250 -6dB 320 -3dB and see if it is better tonally and stage height wise. To smooth the top end adjust as follows 2000 -3dB 2500 -6 dB 3000 -6dB 4000 -3db Thanks to neal for this tutorial. Thanks bro. I have wanted to get a demo of your truck for a while.

Looks nice but I can't justify spending that much on a speaker eq, especially when I only have a 2000 dollar system. I have a ~ $2000 system and I am saving for an ms-8. If it is important or you want it bad enough I say to hell with a budget. You just have to be patient.

Eqs746 from Clarion has all you want for half your budget. http://www.amazon.com/Clarion-EQS746-Graphic-Equalizer-Crossover/dp/B000EZV3T8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333423214&sr=8-1

Subbed for ya

Thug Motivation 101 Grove St. party BME click These are the loudest ones I have found so far, but my wall is sealed. So that could definitely be a factor.

Start out by researching enclosure design, standing waves, and group delay. This will give you more than enough information on the subject. The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook is a great book that will cover these topics too. It's hard to sum it up in a few paragraphs due to so many factors being involved in it.

Sealed. Next build will be bandpass for sure. (Best of both worlds)

It's a mission for me but if the show happens I will make my way out there.

It's definitely the deep end of the pool. Most of us have large drivers (15"+) and several of them at that. That's why we have a wall. A wall can be anywhere from 12-50 cubic feet. Sometimes more sometimes less. They aren't particularly easy to build esp. if you have to do it in the car. Spend a few months talking to cats that have walls and look at their builds. Take your time and when you build make it as rigid as possible. My baffle is the thinnest part of my wall at 1 1/2" thick. What vehicle are we talking about?

Keyword is budget. Lol. Mine cost me nearly a grand for my image dynamic I have an image dynamics setup. The horns and compression drivers were around $400. The 10” midbass I use was 60 bux a piece. That's under 600.

The more EQ the better. It all comes down to how much tuning ability you want. If you are after a real accurate system (tonality, Balance, stage depth etc); a couple of 1/3 octaves can work wonders. (L+R) Don't get hung up on tuning for comps unless that is what you want to really do. Tune for your personal likes. If you want tune to just right seat or for both. It is ok to boost freq....but if you have to do it more than 6db in any freq. it may be a problem with the driver's response or x-over point. just something to consider.

I used pieces of mdf to surround the wall. It actually sits behind the A pillar. The exp. foam works awesome. I cut it to shape and covered it with glass and matte. Then put some carpet over the top. The rear side doors have been glassed to so no air can get out or get behind the wall. The under side of the rear deck of the car was also covered in 3/4" mdf and exp. foam around the edges. So it is separated into 2 sealed sections one behind the other with the cabin receiving all the output from the wall.

I didn't see it. Mods feel free to take it down if that's the case

Found this video while I was looking for channels to subscribe to. She only has one video so post a comment so she'll make more.

Barney Team DOA mike. You guys know him as mistrass on here

What year is the malibu. I built a pair for mine. I can help you out. I taped the area twice and used some chop matte to create a mold. I trimmed it with a dremel. Made dowels to hold the baffle and glued them together to the mold. Stapled t-shirt material over that and glassed that. Hit it with a couple more layers of matte sprayed some rubberized coating on the inside and lined it with 1 1/2" acoustic foam. That's the short and dirty version to give you an idea. There is alot more to it. The center console may draw the stage down. If it is a two way you could mount the woofer in the kick and put the tweet in the sail? I'll refer to Cableguy on that.

Cool build. That wall looks solid as hell.