TheyDontWantMusic

thats three things! showering, singing, and smoking!

I see what you did there I see what you did there intresting..why u mad bra? So did I. I wanna know too. x2

excellent! so its a 35amp fuse, meaning the amplifier is intended for a continuous 35amp current draw. seeing as its a class AB amp, that would make it somewhere around 70% efficient, at best. so, 35amp input, 13.8volt = 480watts input... 70% efficient = 340watts output.

in that case it'll probably do 300watts, and you're measuring it very incorrectly. but I'm quite sure its meant to have a 25amp fuse. All I know is that the fuse in the side of my amp is a 35 amp fuse and my dad has been an electrician all his life and he measured the watts for me. Ill let you hate a little bit more though... what else do ya got... electricians really don't know much about electronics. what colour is the fuse?

in that case it'll probably do 300watts, and you're measuring it very incorrectly. but I'm quite sure its meant to have a 25amp fuse.

I searched for this amp, its rated at 840watts rms? it has a single 25amp fuse... it'll do about 200watts.

"tri mode" is simply so you can run front speakers and a sub off the same 2 channels using passive crossovers. it won't gain you any power.

you should design the box before you start building it... to me, it seems like you're just building "whatever"...

why is that

my 50Hz is 6dB down from 30,40,60 and 70Hz.

my 4th order is tuned to 55Hz, it peaks at 36Hz, but is missing 50Hz completely, and I can't work out why!

yes, but if he breaks the Hifonics, he gets to upgrade! I've seen so many dead DD Z1amps... I have no idea how people kill them! mine spends half its time in protect anyway

the amp isn't going to get hot on a 3 second burp. I ran my DD Z1 at 0.25ohm at the last competition, running an exide orbital (D34 size) and a standard 550cca lead acid battery. your amp has short circuit protection, so chances are you won't be able to simply burp, you'll have to scroll the volume up, and even then it might shut down.

I wouldn't tune it that low.

they aren't though.

problem is, that people don't compare apples with apples on here. you get people referring to scores, but its some outlaw, on the kick, in the port, or who knows what else!

box volume has almost nothing to do with the amount of port area you need. the woofers, power, and tuning frequency do. I hate it when people generalise and say "you need this much port area for this box volume" no, you don't!

25 seconds in is my MTX9500 12 and then straight after that are my 8zed 10s

probably stolen. just buy them already!

yes, they're 8zed, and they're 10's I bought them for a decent home theatre sub bass setup, but wanted to run them in so I could measure the t/s specs properly, to design some tapped horns properly. and there was a car show coming up, so I combined the two, and made a removable enclosure for my little hatch back. then we just chucked the box into "the van" and it did 151+dB quite a few different cars here from a recent competition, the van is in it somewhere:

i feel sick

I need an alignment after replacing the ball joints, tie rod ends, hubs and discs, callipers, adding camber adjustment bolts and new bushes... I drove the car around the block, and it steers it self! plus when I drove back up the driveway, I left two black lines up the concrete

crimp terminals should be crimped. solder terminals should be soldered.

I watched it for like 20 seconds, and got rather bored with it.

the round over in the port opening.