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bassrace

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Everything posted by bassrace

  1. Nice build so far.... And those ports look sweet.... Oh yea I too have a camry.
  2. No problem. Yea you should be fine, just make sure all your wires are secure and tight. Oh and if it just doesnt sound right unplug the remote.... I had trouble with my remote and tuning not sure if they are all weird like that..

  3. As long as their is some kind of fuse up front comming off the batt and the 1 amp in the back by the bx 20 z. Its all good dont worry about asking questions.

  4. The 1 amp fuse is for within 12" of the bx-20z. Yes you can connect your wires from the bx to 8 gauge but make sure to have the wires secure and wrapped in electric tape.

  5. No prob. what's up?

  6. I agree it's a better amp then the kenwood but that's not what I was getting at. I meant why spend the money on a couple hundred more watts, unless you dont plan on upgradeing power to a bigger amp then the 1.2k. If you're just looking to match subs/amps go for it, if you dont plan on more power go for the DC. Now my main idea was if it's not a big difference in sound(idk never ran either amp) why not wait and go bigger if that would be the plan anyway. I did stuff like that, having a 1k amp and get a 1.5k amp and not be satisfied then sell the new amp, haha I was a money wasting noob. not saying OP is I just dont want him to be disatisfied/dissapointed expecting a big difference.
  7. Dude if I were you I would'nt go to a 1.2k from 900rms. I would just wait and maybe upgrade to something a little bigger so you can get your moneys worth, I dont see a 1.2k being noticeably louder or worth the money you could have saved for a bigger amp. Just my .02 cents. I'd wait and save.
  8. How long will this last? I need to get some.
  9. What is the rms rating on the kenwood? Usually you cant tell an audible difference in a couple hundred watts.
  10. I've used undercoating/bed liner like rust olem brand. Its for rust, sound deadening, underbody coating, ect. I only used it in areas that were hard to get to and wheel wells though, not a box.
  11. I say subs back port to the side. Seems to work good in trunk cars
  12. Still not working for me.... What song is it?
  13. Mobile link fail
  14. If you're limited on space maybe try aero ports maybe even external if you can make it work.
  15. Are your connections real tight? If not a loose connection can cause issues.
  16. I'd go for the havoc hands down... I've had plenty of L7's they're not horrible but you have to be delicate with them in my experience. And you can recone the Havoc.
  17. So you have 400$ for a single 15" or 200$ per 12"? What are you looking to do with them? Sq or sql? Do you want just low, low bass?
  18. Good buy that was a great deal on a great amp.
  19. Good idea... I'm sure you'll be alot happier with some type r's or cvr's. If you see some subs and are unsure if you're getting a good deal run it by us.
  20. I mean bro why not spend a few more bucks and atleast get some cvr's online you can find them cheap. You're paying 100$ for two comps and that's what they cost new..... I'm not hatin on you bro but I'd rather see you atleast get a good deal.... I would go another route then pay 100$ for those, check out a pawnshop or something if ya want to stay in the 100$ range. You might find some cvr's, type r's or p3's for your price point, I bet you'd be alot happier with those then the comps or atleast talk him down quite a bit on the comps, are they new?
  21. I'd do 1 good 15" or 18" and call it a day BTL, HDC4, lvl 5 the list goes on..... And I'd put it on a 3k or more amp. Get a good batt/batts and a shit load of 1/0awg wire.
  22. What are you trying to do? How much under 1000rms @4 ohms are wanting ... Give us some real numbers
  23. The threads a monyh old bro.... Im sure hes made his decision by now.
  24. Smart cars!!!!!! So little airspace to move ftw. lol. Good luck finding a spot for the sub though lol
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