Sheena

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/subwoofer-classifieds/532187-2-bnib-funky-pup-subwoofers.html all i could find

well i ordered up the big 3 last night, from what everyone says it should solve the problem. so i'll get that put in and see where i stand then

RCA is RCA, theres nothing special about a left or right RCA other than color coded.. now when you hook it up to the back deck it becomes special. left = white right = red im not sure what happens if you put a left into a right.. never been stupid enough to try.

well port back (at least in my trunk car application) results in a massive amount of trunk rattle which is rather annoying on a large scale. every application is different, so you'd have to try it for your situation.

i mean its a stock 80 amp alt and stock group 51 batt.. ill do the big 3 after i get my quote back for the alt. cause if the price is right ima jump on it then do the big 3. so far what im hearing is get the electrical worked out, which is what i thought in the first place.

just from googling around, the D5100R is the biggest i can fit under the hood without modifying things (theres like NO ROOM under the hood)

but yes, the big 3 will be ordered with my next purchase, cause if i get the alt i gotta run 1/0 for it and i'll do the big 3 while im down there. or if i get a new amp i need 1/0, so i can do the big 3 while im down there. i was already leaning towards an alt because even with a new amp my voltage will still be awful..

i would much rather do the alt than a battery.. cause batts still gotta be charged up, and my alt already isnt doing that.

1. maybe 2. no, but my drop is around 12.3.. but ill do the big 3 with either route i take above. 3. 4ga (since it wont accept 0)

Currently i have a BRZ1200.1 and it is just awful on my electrical system, great amp otherwise. my question is (for better efficiency reasons) should i ditch the BRZ and go with something that offers a better efficiency (at around the same power)? or upgrade my alt and keep the BRZ. if i go with the "other amp" i cant get the alt and it will be used on my stock electrical system (80 amp alt and a stock group 51 battery). ask questions if you need to, also my budget is $400 if anyone needed to know for whatever reason.

turn it into a flat head accessable screw thats a good idea lol.

"Going from 109 dB SPL, which needs 200 watts per channel, to 119 dB SPL (get out your ear plugs)" lol.

ed change the title to "possibly the most uneducated OP ever" lulz or lock it >.>?

i personally understood every word he said. basically the amp is fused, but hes telling you to fuse your positive run from your battery like any normal person would. he said it depending on the ohm load which would mean hes giving you the hint to use either ANL or AGU fuses. IMO he knows exactly what hes talking about in that situation.. dont really see how hes uneducated at all

at the beginning i was like.. its not slowed.. then bangg.....

I own and operate the BRZ1200.1 and i can safely say the knob is a gain knob.. play a tone at anything other than 45 and adjust the gain knob, if it gets louder than its a gain knob. bass boost on the BRZ series is 45hz so it would be really obvious if it was turned up and the gain was down

skar audio gettin down as usual! wonder what that thing would do with 1k per driver... damn thats a real nice setup though

yes sir there is, the latch can be moved forward and backwards about an inch, i move it all the way forward for the tightest seal but because of the vibrations it scoots back. i was thinking about lock washers or welding the piece to that setting. but i had to ask about Alpha Damp because its a vibration issue

so what would help? deaden the lid and put a sheet of MDF over the back, kinda like MarioBs new trunk? or am i just being stupid, i dont really know how this stuff works

i can get another pic if you want of whatever you need

yeah the second pic is looking down, where the trunk lid meets the latch. its the locking mechanism and the latch that are rattling horribly.

So i've done some brief reading about Alpha Damp and have read that its "mainly" for straight surfaces. My question is, could i use it on my trunk lid if i cut it into sections that fit into the holes? or do i need to do Damp Pro on the lid. Explanation of the issue: my trunk latch slams against the trunk lid locking mechanism and is quite noticeable from inside the vehicle and out. this is quite embarrassing. what i believe is happening is, the vibrations are moving the trunk latch forward some which loosens the trunks seal and makes the trunk lid connecting/locking mechanism slap against the latch.

maxxlink? or no

pretty much as soon as you hit full tilt, within a few seconds you have to turn it down/off if your amp doesnt go into protect first or die. batteries rest at 12.Xish.. so this is probably a bad idea

product before money? no. i believe your being sarcastic though about the whole "dont know about this one." pretty obvious scam. i would reply back... "lol."