bassinblazer

Hey Blazer, Are you rims on your blazer powder coated or painted? Just wondering, I have like the same truck as you...I am taking off my big tires and wheels and going back to stock until I can get my issues sorted out... Lame o VS thread jack!

Damn the united nation of cali doesn't eff around when they hand out tickets. I did the same thing here in good old pa, cost me $125 or something like that with no court at all...Just a ticket...

Yea you should hook it up....by sending it to me! Haha, you have enough stuff to do like 3 decent systems or like 1 KILLER system! Haha I wish I had a room in my house that looked like that...

That is the EXACT same reason I got mine. But now that the kids are a little older, I am going to put some beats back in my truck. I Can't vouche for the gas mileage on my truck, it has a baby lift with 30" tires under it and it doesn't like that with the stock gearing at all. Fuel eco went from like 18/19 on the highway to like 14/15 and like 6/8 around town. Don't put oversized tires on it if you want to keep the economy of it. Also, the stock intake and exhaust are pretty petty on these things, open it up a bit and it might reward you with some better fuel economy. Trying to find a used Hypertech tuner for my blazer so I can fix my speed o and get some more power out of it. It has a k&n filter and I didn't notice a bit of difference with it over stock....

Let me know how it turns out...I have been wrenching on these bowties for too damn long now...I know a little bit about em.

Thats what I was wondering? Don't they use heat conductive paint on amps to help dissipate heat?

The thing I hate about all these new computerized vehicles, is, it could literally be as simple as a bad ground or a blown fuse and the whole kit and kaboodle is acting goofy. Also try resetting the codes on your truck and see if it throws them again. You need to unplug the battery for about 15-30 seconds to clear the computer, then turn it on and let it run for a few minutes and see if you check engine light comes on again and if it throws codes again or not. They could very well be old codes that just haven't cleared from the computer yet.

Not yet, my truck looks like arse and is has been raining here like constantly...and I have to find a way to upload them while I am at work...Ha, a bit of a problem. I am waiting on my tax return, should be here in the next several days....Don't worry...It WILL be worth it....well to me anyway, hopefully it is to you guys too.

Should be on the intake pipe either close to the airbox or closer to the throttle body. They put them all over the place and if you have an aftermarket intake on it, you need a high flow MAF sensor, which would be why you are getting that code.

One is for your 02 sensor, which can make your car run like crap/not at all..One looks like you have a MAF sensor fault or a bad MAF sensor....And one is a blower motor most likely for your HVAC system....I would fix the first two I mentioned ASAP which SHOULD take car of a majority of those codes.

Okay, first thing on the list is to clean out my truck and make up my damn mind about my amp and subs. I am getting a pretty good deal on some DC level 2 12's and going with the AQd2200 amp. First thing on my list is to really clean up my truck and get it in some sort of picture worthy shape, because right now, it is embarrassing. Hopefully I will have some time to do this tomorrow at some point. I have some time to kill while waiting for my cash flow to come together, and with kids, a wife, and a holiday coming up I am insanely busy. I am going to try to squeak the cash to buy MDF and start planning my box. I am designing and putting it together, I have a friend with the proper woodworking tools to do all the cutting so he will be helping me out. I need to find space to put an extra battery....I already removed my spare tire in anticipation of building a rack underneath my truck....But that is a lot of fab work, and I don't have a lift. Guess we will see. So as of right now, here is the semi finished list of stuff to buy: 2-DC level 3 12s 1-AQ2200D 1-DC power Alt 250 HP series 1-Kinetic HC2100 2-sheets of 3/4" MDF and a buttload of power/ground wire and some misc odds and ends stuff. I still have to get my big 3 done, but I want to wait til after I get some stuff ordered to do that. If I start on it, I won't want to stop. But if I get too much stuff piled up I will want to throw it together and do it half assed, so I am going to find the happy medium and go with it. Going to start with the big 3, then a battery, and then I will upgrade the ALT once I see how the voltage game is playing out. If I don't need that much alt, I am not going to go that big, because at 469.00 it is quite the investment when I may be able to get away with something in the 250.00 to 300.00 category. I will post pics once the truck is clean. Sorry this is going to take a little while guys, but I promise it will be worth it. I am not going for SPL or anything, it is just my daily driver. I am known in my area for always having a loud stereo, and as of recent(the last 8 months) I haven't had one, so it is time to do it right. I fried 6 pairs of subs with my last amp, because I just turned the gain up a little tooo high. Cheap amp with dirty power, and uber distortion....well you guess....no wonder I fried all those subs. Good thing I got them all at the shop I used to work at for DIRT cheap....otherwise I would have stopped a long time ago. Anyway, sorry for the length and lack of content. I work 2nd shift, and really only get on the comp at night. Will try to have pics up this week sometime.

If you run the AQ2200 you will almost certainly need an alt and a better batt or extra batt. You can probably run the 1200 with stock charging system and big 3 just fine. The question is, will you be happy with the 1200? What happens when you get the extra money and want more sound? You are with an amp you no longer want and want moar power. I would hold off, get the amp, but don't install it. Save up for an alt, and possibly a batt and then do it all at once. These things take time. If you don't do it right the first time, you will find yourself doing it all over again.... Then again, that is what car audio is about in a way. Learning and trial and error. You do what you want to do, what you think is right, because you are the one with the money and the idea. Build it your way. I am just telling you how I would do it. I have been waiting almost 8 months to start my build in my truck, and I only have about 2 weeks to go and it is KILLING ME. So I feel your pain.

I would get the big 3 done ASAP. And if that doesn't help check ALL your chassis and frame grounds, alt groud, motor ground, EVERYTHING. Also, throw a MM on your alt one time to see what it is charging at. See what kind of current is ACTUALLY coming out of it.

What kind of alt...It could be a shitty batt...a bad ground...something else drawing current from your system....a bad voltage regulator...just to name a few.

Yea I had one bad red top out of 3 in my race car....but like I said, if it hasn't died yet, hold on to it til it does. They are great batteries when they work.

Why? It is his cranking batt? It should be fine, right? I know they aren't kinetic or XS, but he already spent the money on that and it isn't a bad battery...Why replace it? I have a red top in my truck for now, since I currently only have a HU and JL door speakers with no amp or subs....They are good batts, good warranty, good service...I would just keep it til it dies...

Yea I was going to say, I would get one more HC1800 and you should be good. That is a lot of alternator. It will be able to keep the charge up on all 3 of those batts easily I would think.

oh, my fault...ha. Go on...buy away...sorry for scrapping your topic....

Okay, if Rockford tech told you to do it, then you are probably fine and just do what he said to do. If anything burns up, it will be his fault. That is just my opinion...

Again, AQ1200D...can't beat it for the price....Or soundstream.

By the way, Jmoney, when you get a chance, ask steve or any of the guys running RF amps what they are rated and what their birth sheet says the real power is.... I had a P400-2 that was rated 400RMS bridged at 2 ohms and was actually 687 at 2 ohms..... KNOW YOUR DAMN ROLE!

even prime series amps like this one will exceed 50w? like 55 or something? Yes....Even prime....If it says RF on it, chances are it is pretty dang underrated....BUT you go ahead and put that shitty pioneer in your whip....since it is rated "better" than RF.