bassinblazer

I would go with a single 15" woofer. Soundstream PXW-15 at 500RMS with a soundstream PCX1000d amp. Set the gains right with that amp, and you will be fine. Put it in a nice ported box, and you will be bumpin pretty good. This is just an example, you don't have to go this route, but this is just showing you what you can get in your price range. If you are talking alts and batts and wiring on top of that system right there (which you will need at least a better battery under the hood and possibly a big 3) then you are going to need to save up a little bit more.

No bro, but she has some big ones too.... I think her name is Kat Dennings but that is just what the caption of the pic said... Anywho, back on topic before I get mod sledged....

really? I kinda like my channel separation, I'd assume most people would. actually dude you know what your right. i didn't really think about the fact he would be using one amp for this. see i'm running one door off the right channel bridge and the other door off the other side. so yes they get mono signals but one gets the right and one gets the left so its perfect. adding tweeters complicates this (my tweets are running from another amplifier). so honestly i didnt think of that problem for him. but i do think it could work? especially for coaxials in a rear deck.. a mono stereo? if there is a left and right channel, its stereo. ok guys what amp should i go with. T1000-4, it's the boss...

I lifted my 99Blazer just by turning up the front torsion bars. People say it isn't safe, but I have been running it for the last year without a problem. There are bolts on each side of your frame right behind the front doors that will lift/stiffen or lower/soften your springs. You just need to make sure you jack the front end up before you do it....Otherwise bad things could happen. If you need a better explanation let me know, I will try to post pics of what my blazers torsion bar bolts look like. Best to do it on level ground too, so that you can use a tape measure to make sure the top of the front wheel wells are the same height too.

I was rounding to get the 1 ohm. This is an important lesson kids. Match your subs and amps up for power ratings and load ratings before you buy them! I am guessing that he got subs thinking I am going to get the biggest baddest things I can afford and he didn't think much about amps huh? I run dial 4 ohm subs for versatility....But that is my preference. Dual 2 ohms woofers get too narrowed down. Not as many choices or options. btw, i love the pic in your avatar, damn those boobs are big.. where can i go find her?? lol Google....Epic boobs....She will pop up....She's hhhoooooottttttt..... Threadjack over...

I was rounding to get the 1 ohm. This is an important lesson kids. Match your subs and amps up for power ratings and load ratings before you buy them! I am guessing that he got subs thinking I am going to get the biggest baddest things I can afford and he didn't think much about amps huh? I run dial 4 ohm subs for versatility....But that is my preference. Dual 2 ohms woofers get too narrowed down. Not as many choices or options.

Unless he is going to be doing comps and burping the subs, he probably doesn't want to run them at .5 ohm. 1 ohm iffy, 2 ohms great. .5 ohm....ehhhhh....I wouldn't. I ran a 2ohm amp at 1 ohm for a year straight, it dealt with it. As soon as I wired it down to .5 ohm with different subs, it played for about 2 minutes then went into thermal protection mode. Wired it back to 1 ohm again with the other subs and it ran fine. If the amp handles it, great, if not, you might just be wasting money. I don't know if he looked at these yet, but soundstream is RMS rated at .5 ohms. Soundstream 2.6K RMS amp

The closer to 2 ohms you can get them running, for a daily, the better off he will be. Some amps thrive on 1 ohm loads, so you have to check that out. Most amps won't last too long if you are running .5 ohm load all day every day.

Thats about the jist of it. I don't know a whole heck of a lot about the trans in your car, but I do know that GM did some funky stuff with their transmissions after they went computerized in the late 80's with the 700R4 and stuff. It all went down hill from there. Stuff got more expensive and more complicated to work on, and it also seems like it doesn't last as long as they used to. Like above guy said, go with the upgraded one, and heck for 1600 bucks, that isn't too bad....Could be worse!

To tell you the truth, transmissions can cost an arm and a leg. If you do it yourself, or you have a friend who could do it for you, that would save you a metric ton of money. To change the gears in the car, you would have to change the rear ring and pinion gears. It would give you more torque, and more acceleration, while making it easier on your motor and trans. Then you could just have you trans tuned to the new gears in the rear, and it should help. You could also put in a different overdrive gear in the trans to help with highway trips and gas mileage. There are quite a few routes to go with it, and not one of them is very simple. My dad just put a trans in his truck, and it cost him $2,700 at the tranny shop. It could need a full rebuild, it may have just snapped a band or clutch, it may just be tired and worn out. Take it to a trans shop and ask them to evaluate it. Then go from there.

Well I need to know what trans is in it, probably a 4l60E I am assuming. I would try checking the fluid level, changing fluid, possibly getting it flushed, and probably changing the gearing in the car so it doesn't kill itself trying to pull all that weight. You can have a shop with a tuner program your trans shift points and firmness. If all that doesn't work, I would be looking for a used trans to take to a tranny shop and have them build it up. You need higher quality clutches and bands, probably a higher line pressure, and I am sure there is tons of stuff that would need to be done to the computer system in those dang things. There is lots to do, the money is the question, how much do you want to put into it?

That is what I am talking about! I can't wait to get my big 3 done and get my new alt. This is going to be the shizzzzlee...

Okay plans have changed substantially. My budget is not near what it was going to be. My truck is having a few issues. Overheating and such. Even with a brand new water pump and thermo it is still overheating. So, once I get this thing fixed, it is going to have taken some of my budget. Which is why, I have changed up my selection a little bit. I wanted to do something will some good quality and good sound at the same time. I really wish I had the money for the all RF system, but I just don't have the finances right now. Anyway, this is what it is looking like now. Until I change my mind again! Kicker 10ZX1000 Amp for subs(possibly 2 if I need it) 4 RF P310D4s Kicker 10ZX650.4 4 channel amp for mids and highs Plan on doing a somewhat stacked style box or mini wall in the back of my blazer, if not a lay down (steve meade style) box. These subs don't need many cubes, and that gives me a little bit of flexability as to what type/style/design of box I am going to use. Whatever is it though, it is going to be custom, as I am building all this, and it should sounds pretty good. DC alt is still on the list as well. This is how I am wiring the subs.Wiring to 2 ohm load

I was going to say, if you give us exact dimensions and volume of the box, we can help you out better. There is not a reason to have that much space in there for 2 15's. The only thing that is going to do is hinder peformance and sound. Technically, you could put 4 15's in that box for as many cubes as you have planned for. You can downsize A LOT. If I had the proper stuff here at work, I would have you give me max dimensions, and then volume needed per sub and go from there to design you one. You can easily do this on your own if you google some information. You will need to know how much air your driver displaces. Nominal volume in a ported box for you subs. Tuning freq. And dimensions of your box. Just remember, it may not come out the same size you have planned right now, but it will probably sound a lot better. Planning and preperation are far more important that going big or going home. Plan it out right, and take the time. It will pay off.

Are they only available in 8's? As I might be interested in the same sub in a 10" version. I could do a wall of like 4 of them in my blazer....a mini wall that is.

It will work, but it is hard to tell how it is going to sound. It might pound away and sound good, or it might just sound like crap. I would go with a more traditional box design if you can, seeing as they are proven to work already. Then again, if you have the money and time to kill, why not give it a shot. Who knows, it might be the next big thing?!?!?! I haven't personally ever seen a box ported like that, and I have never seen your car to be able to predict how it will sound.

I got soo excited when I seen this thread...Damn, too bad it is like 3 years old now...I thought I was going to see mini meades dream ride...A slammed, bagged, bass slappin little pimpin power scooter in meadecandy that would do 40MPH....haha

I don't know, but is sounds like someone got mafia'd for their box once steve shipped it out. Damn, SMD fanboys are hardcore...Now, which one of you guys has the box and all that RF gear?

Those towers are sick. Just watched all the vids on youtube the other day. Kept me entertained while at work. Someone walked by and was like "holy subwoofer" and I said "yea, it's steve meade....duh"

Well from what I am seeing, I would throw a tester on your amp, supposing you haven't touched it, and see what it is actually putting out. If it equates to at or less than 2K rms, then you should be good. If not, then it wouldn't be covered.

Hey bud, I paid for the damn thing, if I wanna give it a shot ill give it a shot. So dont get butt hurt. Im not trying to screw over anyone, I feel that the amp shouldnt have done that considering the gain was still halfway down.. Also considering when it happened I was hardly playing them at what.. volume 10-15.. and they normally take alot more.. Legit enough for me.. They werent going through hell.. Kinda disappointed in the subs. Not to mention a few people on this site in the first place saying my amp wont even put out its full potential, and will prolly put out slightly less rms than the subs are capable of. User error is not covered in warranties. Go ahead and tell them that people on a forum told you it wouldn't put out full power so you thought it would be ok. I want to know what they say that just might do it though keep us updated on that Kind of true, but whatever. It's your call. May I ask though, how many watts RMS is your amp?

I had 900 watts running to one of the regular ones, just to see how long it would last. Well I didn't even have the amp turned up half way, and it bumped good at about 450 or 500 RMS for a few days. Then, I did a bass test....and turned my bass boost knob up half way....The bass test was no longer a bass test, as much as a mids and highs test after that. I wish I would have video'd that shiz, it was funny....But I give Pioneer credit. Their cheapest 12" sub took a beating for 3 days at about 500 RMS and sounded good doing it. Alas, the smoke has cleared, and now there is no bump in my trunk.... Thread unhijacked.

BTW that video is epic.... "holy shit that is a lot of smoke" Bahaha, you let out the magical blue smoke. Once you do that, you appliances no longer work! That sucks man, I am on set number 3 with my amp. I keep buying cheap subs, guess that is what I get... BTW pioneer subs rated for 300 watts RMS don't like it when you feed them 900Watts RMS....Just sayin...I did the same thing too.