HatersGonnaHate

What on earth are you talking about...........

x2 I stated that above. ABS will not function, but your regular brakes will. Just drive careful and don't do any dumb shit lol. Go through and check all the sensors. Front and back just for the hell of it to make sure nothing was touched. Pop the hood and double check any wires leading to the master cylinder or ABS control module, which should be located around or under the master cylinder. Check the brake fluid level. Just be careful man.

Sounds like your friend might have screwed up the ABS modulator when he was compressing the caliper pistons. If the ABS is screwed up, the regular brakes will still function normally, but I'd recommend taking it to a garage and have them check it out.

I dunno about that.... I'm more of an engine guy lol. Might want to take a look on the 3000gt forums and see what people say about it, see what/if any modifications need to be done to make them fit.

Less than $500 for a gasket kit, oil, filter, thermostat, coolant, timing belt.... And just countless hours of your time so you can make sure you're doing everything correctly. If there is a problem with the valves/lifters/springs, it's gonna be a little more pricey than $500.

It's common. And it was probably abused a little bit. They should be adjustable, so it's probably an easy fix, but I'd still go ahead and take the heads off and get a gasket kit for the upper half, that way you can get a good look at the condition of the engine and replace all the gaskets/seals while you're at it.

x2 Stick with a head rebuild and leave the crank/rod bearings/main bearings alone. A few friends of mine had problems with crankwalk after messing with the bottom end, so unless you know what you're doing or can shell out money to a shop, just stick with the upper end and you should be fine.

I use cocaine for polyfill.

Oh shit, then go with Pioneer or an Alpine if you can find one for cheap.

Don't judge us lol

x2 Just taking a stab in the dark, but I think Ray might know a thing or two about car audio.

I know a few people that do run jensen and a few that run the power acoustik with no problems... They are budget h.u.'s, so don't expect the world from them though.

Boss is bad. Period. Had a brand new touch screen for 2 days and then the monitor took a shit on me and only displayed a white screen.

Lol, glad to hear it was an easy, maybe temporary, fix man!

If it is one of those tinsel leads, it would be damn near impossible to fix it without taking it apart, but the best shot at finding out the problem is to take it apart. I dunno how to JL's apart, so either wait for advice from someone else, or try to figure it out yourself. Good luck with it man. You can also check the ohm's on the coil with a dmm and see what they read.

Can you see anything at all inside the basket? Or are those holes screened off?

It would be where the speaker wires attach to the sub, on the basket, then the leads run across the spider and connect to the cone. Look at the back of the sub.

It's pretty hard to breathe with a pillow over your face too, but the Sound Lab is pretty intense.

It could be fixable, but until we see, no one will really be able to tell.

Take a look around RAM's thread in the for sale section. He's got a ton of batts.

It's most likely the ELD..... Which is a Honda thing. Google it and read up on it, it regulates the voltage so the alternator doesn't work more than it needs to, and that helps to improve gas mileage. I think there might be a bypass for it, but I'm not really sure.

Same thing happens on my Civic. Driving along @ 14.6, it'll drop to 13 with no music playing, and if I introduce another load on the system like a turn signal, power windows, headlights, it'll jump back up to 14.6. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the regulated voltage at the computer, not the alternator.

No problem. It should be in post 3 of that link. Both versions of it.

Start here.

More strands. Your 1 gauge is fine.