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HatersGonnaHate

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Everything posted by HatersGonnaHate

  1. HatersGonnaHate
    x2 Stick with a head rebuild and leave the crank/rod bearings/main bearings alone. A few friends of mine had problems with crankwalk after messing with the bottom end, so unless you know what you're doing or can shell out money to a shop, just stick with the upper end and you should be fine.
  2. HatersGonnaHate
    I use cocaine for polyfill.
  3. HatersGonnaHate
    Oh shit, then go with Pioneer or an Alpine if you can find one for cheap.
  4. HatersGonnaHate
    Don't judge us lol
  5. HatersGonnaHate
    x2 Just taking a stab in the dark, but I think Ray might know a thing or two about car audio.
  6. HatersGonnaHate
    I know a few people that do run jensen and a few that run the power acoustik with no problems... They are budget h.u.'s, so don't expect the world from them though.
  7. HatersGonnaHate
    Boss is bad. Period. Had a brand new touch screen for 2 days and then the monitor took a shit on me and only displayed a white screen.
  8. HatersGonnaHate
    Lol, glad to hear it was an easy, maybe temporary, fix man!
  9. HatersGonnaHate
    If it is one of those tinsel leads, it would be damn near impossible to fix it without taking it apart, but the best shot at finding out the problem is to take it apart. I dunno how to JL's apart, so either wait for advice from someone else, or try to figure it out yourself. Good luck with it man. You can also check the ohm's on the coil with a dmm and see what they read.
  10. HatersGonnaHate
    Can you see anything at all inside the basket? Or are those holes screened off?
  11. HatersGonnaHate
    It would be where the speaker wires attach to the sub, on the basket, then the leads run across the spider and connect to the cone. Look at the back of the sub.
  12. HatersGonnaHate
    It's pretty hard to breathe with a pillow over your face too, but the Sound Lab is pretty intense.
  13. HatersGonnaHate
    It could be fixable, but until we see, no one will really be able to tell.
  14. HatersGonnaHate
    Take a look around RAM's thread in the for sale section. He's got a ton of batts.
  15. HatersGonnaHate
    It's most likely the ELD..... Which is a Honda thing. Google it and read up on it, it regulates the voltage so the alternator doesn't work more than it needs to, and that helps to improve gas mileage. I think there might be a bypass for it, but I'm not really sure.
  16. HatersGonnaHate
    Same thing happens on my Civic. Driving along @ 14.6, it'll drop to 13 with no music playing, and if I introduce another load on the system like a turn signal, power windows, headlights, it'll jump back up to 14.6. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the regulated voltage at the computer, not the alternator.
  17. HatersGonnaHate
    No problem. It should be in post 3 of that link. Both versions of it.
  18. HatersGonnaHate
    Start here.
  19. HatersGonnaHate
    More strands. Your 1 gauge is fine.
  20. HatersGonnaHate
    Received my samples yesterday. Thanks again Jon. Now I just need to figure out which one I want to order!!
  21. HatersGonnaHate
    Super good. Please elaborate.
  22. HatersGonnaHate
    You'll notice a difference.... But I'm not gonna jump the gun and say 900 watts right off the bat. Clamp it and find out
  23. HatersGonnaHate
    I think the only line I've heard bad reviews about was the hfi series, the bxi and the brz have treated me well.
  24. HatersGonnaHate
    Just don't go crazy setting your gains and you should be fine. When I go full tilt for minutes at a time, it'll get a little warm, but not too hot to the touch.
  25. HatersGonnaHate
    I've got shitty electrical and I'm running my bxi1610 at .5 daily. No problems, no heat issues. Not really shitty electrical... Stock 70 amp alt, regular Honda battery, big 3, and 0 gauge from the battery to the amp.
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