HatersGonnaHate

Since I like the box I have currently for my two 10's, they play excellent on music and get plenty loud enough for me for daily, but comps are coming up and I want to build a box for a single 10", so I can swap out boxes for comps/daily. Just need some recommendations on what I should tune to and what volume I should shoot for. Specs: Sub: One 10" DC M1 Level 3 with Level 4 upgrade package. D2 coils Amp: Hifonics bxi1610 or Hifonics BRZ 1200 wired at 1ohm Going in the trunk of my 02 Civic. Thanks in advance everyone!

Yea I saw that too, even if it's stickied, they seem to go unnoticed. Bump this daily then. "Hot" topics seem to get more views that way.

I vote for this to be stickied.

I had my supertweets up there for about 10 minutes, then my ears started bleeding so I threw them in the back lol. Don has one in his center console, it gets loud enough to annoy you, but it's clear lol

Honestly, they don't sound that bad, but they will leave your ears ringing.

When he starts going off on the "real ninja", shit gets REAL!

He does not get the publicity he deserves. One of the best up and coming stars in the game, in my opinion.

Glad I could help man. Even if you do leave it on, it doesn't draw much from the battery. I've done it a few times with no harm done.

Yes. Just run the ground from the volt meter to one lead on the switch, then ground the other lead of the switch. Or switch it up and do the same thing, just with the power wire. That's basically how mine is turned on and off

Bam. Link to hdorre's relay wire-up http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/125247-pics-of-your-latest-purchase/page__view__findpost__p__2095667

I thought yours came in a fancy box and had a fancy name brand to it? Same one though, made by sure electronics. No blue wire for remote turn on.

Yea, wire them straight to the amp. There is no remote turn, so you either have to run it to a switch, or run them off of relays so they will come on when an accessory comes on. Hdorre found the relay wiring for them already, so hold on and I'll post back with the link in a minute.

Yes. I use it. And I love it.

Vacations to Hawaii?? I wish I had the power to give away those tickets.

If interpreted correctly, I think he's beating around the bush about calling Nate an asshole that abuses his power. Just a guess.

Won't be the last time you see him. Well, maybe it will be.

So y not help him out with an idea or two instead of just talking shit to him because he's new...maybe just trying like many to get his foot in the door nd learn a thing or two but ass clows like urself that think ur the shit make it hard to do that And you did what to contribute to the thread?

Yea, the link shared fine for me. Thanks for the opportunity Jon!

1,000 Fucking Watts Lol

That's where the wind machine is lol.

CJ is the guy to talk to for a recone, he'll set you up man.

First thing you can do, is measure out where the baffle is going to mount to on the rear deck and the sides/rear supports of the seats, then cut a piece of MDF or birch to that size, then do your cutout for the sub and put it in place and do a test fit to make sure that you won't be losing the function of folding the seats back up. Then get some spray foam and start sealing off the trunk. Both sides where the strut mount top plates are, are huge gaps and it's a starting point. The underside of the rear deck, there's a lot of holes and whatnot up there, and you can either spray foam in the holes, or use gorilla tape or sound deadener and tape/deaden everything. That will be a starting point when it comes to tuning it for the output you want.

And also, since the trunk has way more airspace than needed for that sub, if you run it on lower power and set the gains correctly, it shouldn't be much of an issue.

Personal experience... DO NOT POINT THAT MONSTER AT THE TRUNK LID!! Haha your trunk will hate you and it will knock the hinges out-of-level. And if you were to face it towards the rear, it would indeed destroy the trunk lock. Firing forward would be the best way to go in my opinion, getting a design for the baffle and using the airspace as best you can will be a little tricky. You're most likely gonna have to keep it at an angle, so the motor can sit down in the groove that leads down to the spare tire well. Talk to 412CVX and he might be able to help you out with the airspace and porting. He's really good with box designs and all that cool stuff. And I added on to my first post, don't know if you read that yet lol

You'd have to get rid of the rear seats and build the baffle off of the supporting lip of the rear deck. There's only 16" clearance between the rear deck and the seat supports, but you might be able to get away with it by cutting the brace off the bottom section behind the rear seats. Trust me, I've got the same car and the space restrictions are kind of a bitch to work with lol. And I'm not too savvy on the whole infinite baffle deal.... Makes tuning a little tricky and you've got to seal everything off in the trunk. There's a lot of nooks and crannies back there. But since you asked about how to port it, get rid of your rear speakers and either fill the holes, or fill one and use the other for a port, or use both as a port.