727Designs

Call GA DNR. They are picky as shit about their bears around here.

2004 Ford Truck Escape AWD V6-3.0L VIN 1 Vehicle Level Starting and Charging Charging System Alternator Service and Repair Service and Repair GENERATOR REMOVAL Disconnect the battery cables. Remove the right intermediate axle shaft. Remove the right lower splash shield screws and the pin-type retainer. Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise and remove the accessory drive belt. Remove the nut and position the bracket and wiring harness aside. Remove the upper generator mounting bolts. Remove the lower generator bolts and position the generator aside. Remove the generator mounting bracket bolts and remove the bracket. Remove the generator electrical connectors. 1 Remove the B+ nut and cable. 2 Remove the connector. Rotate the generator to gain clearance, and remove through the opening in the fender well. INSTALLATION To install, reverse the removal procedure. calls for 2.3 labor it is a B**ch but do able i got bored and looked this up on alldata What the hell does this have to do with the price of eggs in China? Very true, great point! Also don't they sell brackets for 3 alts on the 4.3? It would appear to be instructions for pulling the alternator on the Escape, doesn't mention pulling the axle so I have no idea why the OP thinks he would need to pull the axle to do the Big 3 on it. If you can get to the charging wire route it however you can.

I bought a short roll (25'?) of 16 awg speaker wire. Instant 50' of remote wire. Used it on 4-5 installs now.

Do you even have to ask?!

If you take the fittings and hose to most any parts store they should be able to make you one, atleast they can down here. Had my Camaro tranny cooler lines made at O'Reillys.

I'm assuming your worried about unloading, or am I misunderstanding the post?

If I could work facebook anymore, Zach Taylor would like this.

This new shit is fucking gay. It doesn't show half of the actual updates anywhere but the chat bar.

Pretty sure most of your vee dubs and Audi's are 5x112 anymore. I know both my B5 and B6 A4 where.

BMW should be 5x120 IIRC Wouldn't your Rabbit be 5x112?

I've been asking myself that since The Fast & The Furious came out. It was cool on some show cars back in the mid-90's, but then it got to the point where every ricer and their brother had to do a spoiler, huge body kit, giant wheels, etc.

The spoiler is the only problem you had with that car?

Ever thought of smoking the tails? Not completely blackening them out, just a nice light smoke. To me, especially from the side, they really pop... I think it would make them look slightly more subtle and they would take away from the lines/wheels less. That's just me over-critiquing the car though. It looks amazing as is.

I've seen quite a few people have pretty good luck with them. I was thinking he could sell his BC2000 and buy an AP3k and have money left over. That money + the difference between the Lvl5's and the new subs = enough to buy materials for new box. He could always upgrade to a better amp later.

Obsidian will have their 18's out soon. 1500 a piece would get them crazy loud, and they would work well in a smaller box than the Lvl 5's. Might be a route to sell, rebuild, and still pocket some cash. I had forgotten OA was about to release their 18s, I was just thinking about Sundown and OA lol. Definitely something to consider... And yep bro, live and learn. I learn better when I make mistakes, just wish those mistakes wouldn't cost me so much. But that's my own fault You could honestly probably sell you Lvl 5's, and BC2000 and buy 2 OA18's, pick up a used AP3000.1D, or AQ3500, or something along those lines, and have enough left over to buy materials to rebuild. Obsidian is saying they will sell the 18's for right around $200 last I saw, there are AP3k's on CACO for $270-280 shipped every day.

Obsidian will have their 18's out soon. 1500 a piece would get them crazy loud, and they would work well in a smaller box than the Lvl 5's. Might be a route to sell, rebuild, and still pocket some cash.

100% dead serious I clamped my buddies Boss Phantom 1250(I believe it was 1250?) at 2.2 after rise, ~13.8v it did 295x1. haha holy shit, wtf. Why would Boss exaggerate the rating THAT much? Because somebody, somewhere will see the rating and think they are getting an awesome deal. He bought it for $85 because he didn't know any better. I looked at it and saw the 30 amp fusing, and told him it was probably doing close to 300 watts, he was curious so we clamped it.

I'm jealous of that sub, no lie. I WILL own a Z one day.

100% dead serious I clamped my buddies Boss Phantom 1250(I believe it was 1250?) at 2.2 after rise, ~13.8v it did 295x1.

Since it is a Boss amp he figured he'd post actual clamped power

Honestly, you're running a mismatched set of not-so-great subs, on a pair of sub par amps. You'll catch alot of hell from some people on here about the equipment. My advice is to sell what you've got, do some research on here and see what you think will best suite your listening style and budget, get someone to do you up a good box design and build a box. You'll be amazed at the difference.

Up to 38 now

You're killing us with this dick tease BS. Pics or gtfo!

I just use cheap rattle can primer.

I use the Duplicolor bedliner you can buy at most auto parts stores and the only way I've gotten good coverage is to do several heavy coats of primer first. I take and hit the screw holes/seams with some filler, sand it, then lay on enough layers of primer that it looks like a solid cube (no seams showing, no screws, no nothing. Then do several light coats of the bed liner.