727Designs

The SA's will like that size, and 16" is great on port area.

With a PVC or Aero port 8" or bigger is fine. The L port is not enough port area. Is that net or gross on the airspace?

MDF or Birch, Titebond II, 1 5/8 course drywall screws, jasper jig and router or jig saw, drill with bit small enough to predrill and a countersink, table saw or circular saw + straight edge, and something to seal it with I use DAP Clear Silicone, clamps help tremendously as well, especially corner clamps!

Hmm, what would your recommendation be? I'm not a big aero fan, but a partly external slot would be my choice. Aeros work well though.

Sub up port back works very well in a trunk from my experience. On a meter you'll notice a bigger different sub forward, port forward and sealed off completely.

1.2" Dowels for bracing. You need to realize that bracing will take up space in the box therefore raising your tuning. I'd run a double baffle setup, with some 1.2" dowels from top to bottom and front to back. Also, any reason you are set on an aero port? 2 7" aeros wouldn't personally be my setup of choice.

Sounds like your phases are wired backwards, although that box also looks tiny which hurts output.

You sacrifice any more port width and it will throw you short on port area. Measure the diameter of the subs when you get it back, I'm betting they are a little smaller than specs show. Plus at 16h you could always stagger them ever so slightly to make up for some of it.

Yepp. I miss my old Cadence A7.

Wouldn't the port be 14.5" tall due to the .75" MDF? And wouldn't 4.75" wide be too much since I gotta fit 2 12's into the remaining space of the front plate with overall diameter of 12.76" each? Would I also need that much volume for these? I had the height at 16.5, let me fix that. Try this: 16h x 30w x 28.5d port being 14.5h x 4.75w x 26.75d put you close to the same specs as early. You need 2.3 cubes according to the chart you provided, and any narrower port will throw you short on port area. It should fit but be tight.

Try 16h x 30w x 28.75d with a port of 4.75w x 15h x 28d. That will throw you 4.6 net 33hz with 15.5" in^2 port per cube. That's also figuring for bracing, woofer displacement, etc.

I'm running mine in 3.25 net at 35hz and it loves it. Should be fine at 3.5. 16in^2 of port should work well also.

How's that 420 like those 28's in the thick mud? I had an Outlander 800 I raced in GNCC 4x4 Open 1 race then turned it into a work quad and even on that beast with a full exhaust, efi programmer, and clutch kit the 28's I put on it where all it wanted in the thick GA clay.

That breaks my heart I remember when I was younger my cousin always ran US Amps, then I ran them for the first few years.

It's just obvious to me that he's wanting more than he's got, and when he upgrades subs his box will still be a weak link. I don't know about there but I know here that ProBox could bring top dollar, easily cover building a box. Then he could build it to fit whatever he wants.

Why not do an angled face and do the front firing? I put a single L7 12" in one of those trucks that way. I think it started at the edge of the seat and only went out 2" further at the bottom. Did sub forward firing on passenger side, port firing into the door on the drivers side. On 1k RMS it was a MONSTER in that truck.

I use 3/8" lag bolts then I use 4 nuts, I run 1 nut up the lag bolt till I have the desired amount from that nut to the end of the lag bolt, put my wire on before that nut and jam it down between the 2 nuts. After that put it through the box and jam another nut down on the outside. That leaves a stud that you can adjust the length on by using the 2 nuts inside the box, and because the wire is jammed between 2 nuts it's not going anywhere. On the outside you just put the wire on the stud, then jam it down so it's jammed between 2 nuts as well. No picture, but as visual as I can explain it.

BassBoxPro6 for the figures, then SketchUp to draw it out. The bracing is figured for 1.2" Dowels.

I got bored.

If you're doing a 48 now you could probably experiment some and break a 50. There is a post I believe in the SPL section on here that's all about squeezing out numbers. SPL Hints or something of the sorts.

That's going to be an interesting fit with 3 subs with an outer diameter of 15.5" per sub. If you end up doing it using those h x w x d measurements you can use a 10.25w x 14.5h x 20d port for 34hz tuning and 15.25in^2 of port per cube. Figuring sub displacement and bracing would also put you around 9.75 net.

Love the build, looks like it moves hella air for sure... ...But that tag frame makes me want to vomit... so I'll just leave this right here:

1.25 each is WAYYY too small. RAM is right, 2 or so would work much better, maybe even a touch bigger with your power level.

I was told that chassis ground was better them frame is not true. if I go front to back I still need another ground to the chassis of frame dont I? Chassis/frame would be the same. You're essentially grounding to the body, run them on down to the frame.