JWBryant

Less port area= lower tuning More port area= higher tuning Longer port= lower tuning Shorter port = higher tuning Btw a 4"x6" port wont cut it. Fixed

How do you unzip zip. files? Or play them? I'm on Winndows Vista, and I wanted to put the songs on Itunes.

If there are 4 wires coming out of the sub box then make sure positive goes to positive and negative goes to negative. This will make sure they are not wired out of phase. Edit: Nevermind I see you did it.

So your saying the subs play at a very low volume?

Nothings on the link.. Must be a good thing

My friend bought a lazar amp.. He liked it, it did well but he switched amps because he said the amp kept overheating. He told me it was pretty good for the price though... I learned my first lesson on setting gains on a Dual amp I bought at walmart... burned up a coil.. but since I learned to use it properly its been serving me well. Personally I think that its up to the installer to make it work.

1st impression Oh its just country, 30 seconds in Oh its just someone rapping on a country beat, A few songs later This is pretty sick. Definatley gonna listen more

Saweet man! Now thats creative thinking right there.

If you download Audacity ( its free ) you could boost that song and any other songs you want. And do lots of other things. Btw Happy Birthday to you both!

Thanks to those who posted, I learned a little lesson about port area, and I thought about it and i'm going for it. 2.16 gross, 15.12 sq inches of port per foot tuned to 34 Hz. Port at 3.75 x 6 x 30. I think its gonna sound pretty good when its all done.

So are the new specs better? Will that be alright?

2 separate boxes for simplicity, if i did 1 it would get tricky. Plus that center part gives me a little less than a cubic foot. It just doesnt seem wort it.

How is 2 cubes for the box and the port .27 cubes, 2x8x15? Says I have 16 inces squared for port area and its tuned to 35 Hz. Also the port would have to be on the side.

Had another box with just about the same dimensions but with an round port and it was at 30 and, I dunno I liked it, seemed to sound ok. But this it what I hate about box calculators, it tells you its tuned to this, but it cant tell you if its right. Anyway if I double the port area as you say (2x8x12) and modify the dimensions to make up for the .11 cubes of port area, will it still be tuned around 35 Hz and sound good?

My bad 12" deep .

Making 2 more boxes for my single cab Dodge, and its gonna be the last one for awhile but I wanted to make sure that it looked good, and had little or no flaws. Got 2 Memphis audio street duty 12". The gross volume of the box is 1.69 ft cubed and the port is .11 ft cubed. Tuned to 30.32 Hz The subwoofer is going on the back side toward the bottom of the box, and the shaded area is the port which is 12" deep. There is nothing else that is going to be in the box, no braces or anything. Is it alright? should I brace it at all? Add another baffle? Will it be sufficient if I upgrade my subs later? My friend has 2 kicker cvx 12s and no car so he selling them for 80$ each, probably gonna buy those later on. Any feedback is appreciated.

Think I might have to get the alt tested. It doesnt happen whe ln Im driving but the volt drop was from 14.4-13 or lower, on consistant bass. I actually have other problems with my truck, it might be related.. It takes 3-4 seconds to start but is very reliable, and also It tends to not Idle when I'm driving It runs perfectly except for these things. When I drive Im Finding myself putting it in neutral to keep it going, also it usually dies smoothly

Depending on the wire.. Cost me 100 bucks at a local store and a little work , you might find a deal somewhere if you look.

On my phone right now and I'm having probllems with my internet so I cant upload pics. But some other things are that its a 90 amp alt, and This problem only exist while at idle, and it were a different problem with my truck what would it be? Any ideas?

1 wire straight to the alternatir, and 1 wire to the fuse box, as stock. Going to be uploading pics in a moment

I grounded it to the frame for sure, I even spent an extra 20 minutes trying to get the bolt from the frame to fit through the terminal. And the other one is on top of the engine about a foot from the alternator. If I knew how to upload pics I would show you. And I'm not sure what the amperage is for my truck but I have been curious before. If you know where to find it on my truck I will.

Yes I sanded them to bare metal, and the amplifier is 350 wrms. Is it possible the headlights were grounded bad?

Finally got the big 3 done today but... I didnt get the results I hoped for. I'm pretty confident that the wiring was good, and I know I found some good grounds. I took a vid before the upgrade and got a good visual on the voltage drop. The thing is that when I was done There seemed to be even more voltage drop. It was darker and colder so that probably played a part, but I expected to be able to run my truck at idle with the lights and the heater on with the subs... Well at least a little better. Does anyone have any input as to what the problem is? Maybe something else is wrong with the vehicle?? Vehicle info 1995 dodge 1500 Ram Truck Single Cab Infinity reference series amplifier at 2 ohms 2 12" memphis audio subs Stinger 1/0 gauge and terminals Bought new bat just last year 110,000 miles

I got a single cab truck, not the same as yours, but with all the windows closed, it dominates the lows, but when I open it all up the lows die off and 40 hz and up is twice as loud. This info might be sonewhat useless since you probably dont want everyone else to hear your music. But me I live in a small town I generally dont care what they say.

lolz nate I have a dream..... Except Kings dream came true lol