CleanSierra

I might go with a CT sounds 1400.1 now that you mention them. Fits right in the budget.As far as port area goes I could go 14.5x7 for right at 101in^2 of port area That's what I'd do. I think you'd be happy with it.

And OP, 100" of port is what I calculated with that tuning. I think Sundown recommends 75-85" if you go yo enclosure recommendations on their site.

^^^^CT Sounds are pretty affordable and that are rated at 12V instead if the typical 14.4V.

Thr X has the opportunity to dig lower and with more authority. Louder though....2 12s is definitely more cone area so you COULD get more output with the 2 SA12s.

Give the X proper port area and net volume, you'll be happy with it. How much port area would you plan on running to the X?

I think there is someone selling one on the forum for like 280-300. I can't remember exactly though.

Crescendo BC2000 and that will do it.

How many do you plan to run and on which amp? If only two subs, D4 coils are what you want so you can wire the two down to a final ohm load of 1 ohm. If 4 subs(I saw your other post about having 4 L7s) definitely look into the D2 coils. 4 subs that are D2 will wire down on one amp to a 1 ohm load. If you plan on running two amps, again go with D4s. This way your getting the most power out of the amp. This is only if you plan on buying a 1 ohm stable amp. The Kicker you're used to only wires gotten to a 2 ohm load at its lowest. I suggest NOT considering wiring to .5 ohms. If you plan on running 4 subs, go with something like a Crescendo BC3500 or a Sundown SAZ3500. Skar also makes a good amp. Those amps will be plenty to handle 4 SA12s.

That's not nearly enough port. You may have noise.

52" of port is what I calculate as minimum. You can get away with a little less in a vehicle to escape port noise but you are quite a bit under. The guy above with a single 3" aero is likely going to experience port noise. I without go with a port like the ones above with many turns because that turns into an inefficient enclosure with that many 180° turns. I'm not sure which port calculator told you 38", but it's not what I got.

Coolest thing, you can now take a selfie from your new HU

Drivers seat IN the port, problem solved.

I'd probably do a slot port rather than aero. You're crunched for space huh? If wanting to go aeros, you still may try to keep the 4 6"ports. I wouldn't sacrifice port area AND lower volume. You'd never be able to guess which one was your culprit if it sucked. I'm not saying it would suck, but don't change two variables at once, just change one.

The subs don't need less port just because they are in a smaller enclosure. The cone area, tuning and Xmax doesn't change, the amount of port shouldn't either

Made an even swap for some SMD LED meters the other day. He sent his out with me about to leave on vacation and knowing I wouldn't be getting his product to him as quickly as he got my product to me. It didn't matter, he didn't hesitate to send it as FAST as humanly possible. I received it in like two days, perfect condition and couldn't have been happier. If you EVER get a chance to do business with Kyle(or Laura) you won't find a better person/people to do it with. Top notch.

Holy frick! I'm diggin it. May need a UBL if you can get approval Edit-Just saw the link below. Very ninja of you.

Is it that Clio guy that it's helping you? I can see after the bad input you've received over the couple designs that you've posted, why you're wanting to keep the future designs secret. I'm sorry if I've come off as harsh. I really want to see you succeed man, seriously. All I will say, as far as real advice goes is please give the subs enough port area to perform. Don't get caught up in "port per square foot", that isn't going to help you. A sub needs how much port a sub NEEDS. It doesn't matter if that sub is in 3 cubic feet or 2 cubic feet. So don't pay attention to port per square foot. Overall port area is what you're after. And I'll throw in another idea, don't run your amps at half ohm. You're going to have tons of cone area you don't need to overpower the subs like that. 1 ohm per sub will be just fine, meaning you need to but subs that will wire at a final load of 1 ohm per two subs. If you truly plan on sending a SHITLOAD of power to each sub, consider that you'll need to shrink the box size to compensate for overdriving your woofer. If you have those subs in an enclosure meant for a sub being sent RMS power, you could have issues with keeping the sub under control mechanically(not to mention the extra heat you'll create with the extra power and stress the sub thermally TOO) Anyway, those area my $.02(maybe more). Like I said, I want to see you succeed with this project and I want to see videos of this monster. Have a nice day

I don't wanna call BS on the guy, I really would just like to help. I'd love to see a build like this take place because it'd be the first I know of with this many X's being in an SUV build.

So don't take this the wrong way but you need to stop and start over. You obviously want to run a ton of subs, which is cool, it's impressive looking. Its also good because it dissipates great over more subs, more voice coils. Here are the problems: 1) Your port area and airspace keep jumping all over the place. You started at 198" and 17 cubes. Next was LESS port at 164.5" and 13.6 cubes. Most recent design has 276" of port and 16 cubes. You can't just guess at this and expect results. The latest option, btw, is the best 2)You're wanting to run a 3500(which actually does 3800@1 ohm) @ .5 ohms to two subs. These suns have an RMS of 1250W. You are thinking it's a good idea to have them at double their rated power? 3) You're asking for input on your sketch, yet are unwilling to accept the good advice you're given when it is. You want to know if your box looks proper just the sketch, the bracing, the spacing of the holes on the baffle. A design VERY MUCH matters about the numbers, don't tell us not to worry about the mathematics, it's all about the mathematics. I think you need to start smaller and simpler until you understand things like port area and airspace and how the two are equally important. I mean no disrespect, I really do not. I hope to see this build take off and be badass. I don't want you quitting the game because of a bad outcome from the first MAJOR project undertaking.

From what you've described, in the range of 32Hz would work fine fine for you. P.S.If you need any help, PM me. I'm going to bed and won' be able to answer any questions right now

I'd probably throw more port at it too, even more than 70". Tuned in the 20s, I would think 70" would be just fine(from what I come up with in my calculator for minimum desired vent).

No, I don't think the window brace is needed. I could probably throw something together for you. Do you have 48" of width that can be used? If so, I've already got it designed from when you made your original post Edit-Well, from when I posted in the thread anyway. So basically for the last hour I've had something on my computer.

Well that is just plain weird. Did your buddy give Ryan constraints as far as max depth, height, or width? If limiting factors were present, he may have just done the best he could with what he had to work with. There is another possibility that the sub is so NEW and no specs were available at the time he designed the box. I only noticed JUST today, that Sundown has a screenshot of T/S specs. They weren't on the website until recently, like within the last few days-I check often. So me personally, I'd up the port area another 20" and see what that does. I'd double baffle for sure. I would ditch the idea of doing 45s, they are not needed.

So I want to get something kind of clear before I guess or assume: Was the RAM Designs box for the T1 or the Sundown?

Btw, I'd run more port than you have planned for that sub. Like in the 70" range. That would require you to make the box wider, like 8" wider with another 1" width on port. Double baffle as well, without question.