CleanSierra

3 3100s and biggest underhood is my opinion also

Why do you want to send basically double rated power to those subs? Poor subs

They aren't the exact screws, but the ones I use are pretty meaty.Spax #14 multi material construction screw. Can get it from home depot, and it's the biggest size I can fit through my basket without having to drill it out. They come in a small green container with a clear plastic front cover I use the same exact ones and they are beastly.

When EBP is 50 or less, sealed or 4th order bandpass is the preferred enclosure type. 50-90(more like 100)can go either ported or sealed. Anything that is 90 and above heavily prefers a ported enclosure. EBP is calculated by Fs divided by Qes.

We don't need anyone from Sundown at all. The EBP for the D2 sub is 76. It is suited perfectly for either a ported or sealed enclosure. It is really just for any build where space is tight.

Looks good. I love that guy and am so envious of his skills. Might have to hit him up on FB. I wonder what this MDF Christmas tree looks like....

At 34 Hz, 70" port is the minimum I get.

I might go with a CT sounds 1400.1 now that you mention them. Fits right in the budget.As far as port area goes I could go 14.5x7 for right at 101in^2 of port area That's what I'd do. I think you'd be happy with it.

And OP, 100" of port is what I calculated with that tuning. I think Sundown recommends 75-85" if you go yo enclosure recommendations on their site.

^^^^CT Sounds are pretty affordable and that are rated at 12V instead if the typical 14.4V.

Thr X has the opportunity to dig lower and with more authority. Louder though....2 12s is definitely more cone area so you COULD get more output with the 2 SA12s.

Give the X proper port area and net volume, you'll be happy with it. How much port area would you plan on running to the X?

I think there is someone selling one on the forum for like 280-300. I can't remember exactly though.

Crescendo BC2000 and that will do it.

How many do you plan to run and on which amp? If only two subs, D4 coils are what you want so you can wire the two down to a final ohm load of 1 ohm. If 4 subs(I saw your other post about having 4 L7s) definitely look into the D2 coils. 4 subs that are D2 will wire down on one amp to a 1 ohm load. If you plan on running two amps, again go with D4s. This way your getting the most power out of the amp. This is only if you plan on buying a 1 ohm stable amp. The Kicker you're used to only wires gotten to a 2 ohm load at its lowest. I suggest NOT considering wiring to .5 ohms. If you plan on running 4 subs, go with something like a Crescendo BC3500 or a Sundown SAZ3500. Skar also makes a good amp. Those amps will be plenty to handle 4 SA12s.

That's not nearly enough port. You may have noise.

52" of port is what I calculate as minimum. You can get away with a little less in a vehicle to escape port noise but you are quite a bit under. The guy above with a single 3" aero is likely going to experience port noise. I without go with a port like the ones above with many turns because that turns into an inefficient enclosure with that many 180° turns. I'm not sure which port calculator told you 38", but it's not what I got.

Coolest thing, you can now take a selfie from your new HU

Drivers seat IN the port, problem solved.

I'd probably do a slot port rather than aero. You're crunched for space huh? If wanting to go aeros, you still may try to keep the 4 6"ports. I wouldn't sacrifice port area AND lower volume. You'd never be able to guess which one was your culprit if it sucked. I'm not saying it would suck, but don't change two variables at once, just change one.

The subs don't need less port just because they are in a smaller enclosure. The cone area, tuning and Xmax doesn't change, the amount of port shouldn't either

Made an even swap for some SMD LED meters the other day. He sent his out with me about to leave on vacation and knowing I wouldn't be getting his product to him as quickly as he got my product to me. It didn't matter, he didn't hesitate to send it as FAST as humanly possible. I received it in like two days, perfect condition and couldn't have been happier. If you EVER get a chance to do business with Kyle(or Laura) you won't find a better person/people to do it with. Top notch.

Holy frick! I'm diggin it. May need a UBL if you can get approval Edit-Just saw the link below. Very ninja of you.

Is it that Clio guy that it's helping you? I can see after the bad input you've received over the couple designs that you've posted, why you're wanting to keep the future designs secret. I'm sorry if I've come off as harsh. I really want to see you succeed man, seriously. All I will say, as far as real advice goes is please give the subs enough port area to perform. Don't get caught up in "port per square foot", that isn't going to help you. A sub needs how much port a sub NEEDS. It doesn't matter if that sub is in 3 cubic feet or 2 cubic feet. So don't pay attention to port per square foot. Overall port area is what you're after. And I'll throw in another idea, don't run your amps at half ohm. You're going to have tons of cone area you don't need to overpower the subs like that. 1 ohm per sub will be just fine, meaning you need to but subs that will wire at a final load of 1 ohm per two subs. If you truly plan on sending a SHITLOAD of power to each sub, consider that you'll need to shrink the box size to compensate for overdriving your woofer. If you have those subs in an enclosure meant for a sub being sent RMS power, you could have issues with keeping the sub under control mechanically(not to mention the extra heat you'll create with the extra power and stress the sub thermally TOO) Anyway, those area my $.02(maybe more). Like I said, I want to see you succeed with this project and I want to see videos of this monster. Have a nice day

I don't wanna call BS on the guy, I really would just like to help. I'd love to see a build like this take place because it'd be the first I know of with this many X's being in an SUV build.